Long term parking - Storage and battery disconnect - fatal?

[jons1]

SKODA FABIA SE TSI 2012

 

Hello I need to park the Skoda for 5 months.

 

Will the battery run flat in this time?

 

With the alarm on, I presume it will sound when the battery runs flat?  Not good.

 

I found a button inside the door to disable the interior beam which might reduce power consumption.

 

I was going to disconnect the battery but now I am reading concerns about ECUs, fuel pumps, radio codes and other issues on VAG vehicles, notably the sister car the Seat Ibizia.

 

So do I need to disconnect?

 

I wish I could lock with the key to avoid activating the alarm?

 

Thanks.

 

Jon.

[jme808]

If its the original battery it will probably need replacing after 5 months of not being used, unless you have a trickle charger which usually means removing the battery.

Are you leaving on the road or in a garage with access to power?

I would also avoid leaving the handbrake on if you can as that will likely seize on after 5 months.

I believe you can lock with the key by removing the plastic cover next to the handle.

[mac26]

I don't know how it would affect a more modern motor, but I don't know if you'd get any problems just disconnecting the battery altogether.

I guess it depends if it's parked up in a locked garage or not?

I've got an old 80's Ford RS as my toy- that's either in a locked alarmed garage with a trickle charger/ battery conditioner for 6-8 months at a time, it's still wired up to the car so alarm and immobiliser function remains. Or I just disconnect the battery altogether.

Either way I've never had any problems.

As mentioned above I'd leave the handbrake off.

But that's in an old motor, without all modern electrics......

[Phil-E]

The best case is if you can run a trickle charger.

If not then it would be best to disconnect the battery.

Or you could leave it on but put one of those solar trickle chargers on the dash. My dad had his old car parked up for 3 months once with one of those solar panels and it fired straight up (was a T reg VW Sharon 1.9 TDI).

[Phil-E]

Oh and there are no issues with leaving the battery disconnected. The radio will remember it's code and the ECU will only reset it's learned values.

You will just then need to reset your one-touch windows.

[jons1]

It's in a car park, part sheltered.

 

I'll have a crack at disconnecting it later this afternoon then... hm, one touch windows? How do I reset those?  And central locking?

 

- I can see no reference to it in the manual.

 

(Solar charger sounds great but I'm out of time to order.  And it's also by a wall/roof structure which reduces light.)

 

I hope the battery survives the northern European winter.  Might give it a blanket.

[StevesTruck]

A trickle charger (either mains or solar) is by far the best way to go. Aldi have them mains ones in from Thursday if that's any help? 

 

It's worth trying to get the car on stands so the weight if off the tyres, that way they don't go oval, and any sight leaks aren't a total flat with a manky sidewall by the time you get back.

 

Leave the dash vents open, and think about putting something inside to soak up moisture (tray of cat litter works well, so long as the cat can't get your keys).

 

Handbrake off, if you want to stop it rolling away, leave it in gear. 

 

Give the door rubbers a spray of silicon, cheap furniture polish is a good substitute, and spray some graphite lock lube into the barrels (£2 from maplin last time I bought it). 

[2ndskoda]

Note - leaving it in gear for 5 months is not to be recommended. Doing so means that the hub detent springs and balls are compressed for a long time,  Therefore compressed springs will lose some of their return capabilities. Also the syncro ring will be placed against its 'in gear surface'.

 

Floor not level? - just use a chock.

[jons1]

Great thanks, I knew about the tyres and to leave in gear.  Problem with a chock is visibility, indicating long term absence.

 

Noted however.

 

I demonstrated to Er'Indoors how to roll the car a foot or so on demand while I'm away. 

 

(I knew this might become difficult when she used two hands to turn the key..... oh boy....  :no: )

 

I managed it, but on first disconnect all the the doors were left unlocked. 

 

I tried to disconnect again after central locking and the alarm sounded. 

 

So the steps were - 

 

1.Unlock with fob.

2.Insert key in ignition and turn to electrics on (not engine start) within 15 secs.  Count to 5, pull out.

2.Pop the bonnet.

3.Sit inside and close the driver door.

4.Lock all the doors using the central locking button on the DASH - not fob - (front of gearstick - only locks with driver door closed).

5.Open driver door and go disconnect the battery - BLACK TERMINAL FIRST I'm told.

6.Close bonnet and lock driver's door manually with key

 

Hoorah!

 

I also put a piece of cardboard atop battery terminals as a barrier.  And an old fleecy garment around the battery.

Chocks away!. 

 

[jme808]

If you're planning to jump start when you get back, do so with care. A very dead battery (as yours will be) can kick sparks out like a goodun when connected to cables.

I would remove and charge if you can, although be prepared to buy a new one as car batteries are not designed to be left unused for long periods.

[delta925]

I too think a solar charger would be the best option. The daily drain is so low that even shaded and through the winter the input ought to be enough keep it charged.

 

The Fabia rear drums / handbrake seem to stick over just a couple of days after heavy rain or snow or washing the car so the brakes are definitely best left off. After 5 months the discs will be heavily rusted too. Moving the car a full wheel rotation will help.

 

The alarm siren has an internal battery so it will sound if a thief disconnects the main battery.

 

Yes take negative connection off the battery first so no sparks if you touch anything removing the positive. On mine at least lots seems to be connected to the positive terminal so not sure how to remove it. Similarly when refitting connect the positive then the negative.

 

When you get back best to charge the battery off the car rather than try to jump start, not least damage to the donor car. I will no longer give jump starts because the last I did cost me an alternator :-(

Edited 25 October, 2016 by delta925

[vxh26]

<SNIP>. Doing so means that the hub detent springs and balls are compressed for a long time,  Therefore compressed springs will lose some of their return capabilities. SNIP>

That's an interesting one. I am a keen skier, I always used to release the pressure on my bindings at the end of the season. Some years ago, when I was getting my end of season service I asked the technician to release the pressure.  He asked why and told me that I should always leave the bindings at my usual settings.  I have asked many technicians since - not one of them releases the springs on bindings at the end of the season (admittedly they never use their skis for more than one winter).  I have also done some research with mechanical engineers - without exception they have said that springs do not deteriorate or suffer fatigue as a result of compression.

 

Having said that, I am certain that leaving a car unused for five months will be fraught with issues - can't you get someone to fire it up and drive round the block once a week?

[2ndskoda]

I dont wish for a prolonged debate with you on this, but you have not taken into account that the components mentioned are subject to constant heat changes - hot to cold extremes repeatedly - which does effect the temper and recovery of springs in particular. 

I am a little old fashioned and perhaps out of touch these days - but when I started in the motor trade as an apprentice - it was quite normal for people to lay up cars over the winter and  other times for various reasons. Many would leave off the handbrake (understandably) - and leave the car in gear.

The number of gearbox jobs we did at that time for jumping out of gear on the overrun as a result of this practice would surprise you. It is from this first hand experience that I still recommend a chock is best. I will concede however that material and specs have improved since those days BUT I know which way I would go.

[Phil-E]

Surely if your missus is going to the trouble of rolling it back and forth while you're away you should have just left it as it was and got her to start it and run it for a few minutes?

[jons1]

Yes but she isn't a driver - explaining how gear sticks work was a challenge.  Plus I fear the car will lurch into the wall when she starts it in gear.

I also understand these occasional cold starts and off again serve to only drain the battery without a good run.

So each start would progressively reduce the charge, then the alarm starts sounding due to low voltage... :|

 

I'll stick a multimeter on the terminals on my return, I understand I'm looking for near 12 volts for a healthy battery.  Not holding my breath.

Edited 26 October, 2016 by jons1

[rum4mo]

I would think it would take more than running for a few minutes to let the alternator replenish that battery.

I did not know about having possible problems with gearboxes if left in gear, with my daughter's Ibiza I can take care of that while I am looking after it as I built up a "stop" with gravel where it gets parked, so it is going no where if left out of gear and handbrake off!

Remember the comment about "there are soft rubber bungs on the rear face of every door frame"  with the outline of a padlock (maybe) or a slot - remove > fit key into slot and rotate (it will spring back) > refit rubber bung and close the door = door is now locked

Edited 27 October, 2016 by rum4mo

[xman]

Looking forward to the "help I cant get into my car!" thread in 5 months time.

[rum4mo]

Looking forward to the "help I cant get into my car!" thread in 5 months time.

 

If that was in response to my posting, I was assuming that anyone taking the battery lead off would first make sure that the key worked in the driver's door lock.

 

I could have made it clear that you only use this method to lock doors that don't have a lock barrel in them, that would force anyone to make sure that they could lock the driver's door with the key - but I was assuming that some common sense was available here, maybe not a wise assumption?