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Yeti Xenon Lights


Dingdong2

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Still prefer to adjust them myself, but just cannot find the darned screws = where are they?

 

Unless you have access to VCDS then you cannot adjust them yourself, as others have said.

If you did find the screws, without VCDS you risk damaging the headlight adjustment motors, which will prove to be VERY expensive.

Talk to your dealer or an independent with the correct equipment.

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Something like VCDS is required to put them into "adjustment mode" before adjusting them.
If you do manage to find the adjustment screws without that they will revert back to where they were.

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You have checked if there is setting in the MFD  to adjust ?

The only thing to do with the Xenon lights in the MFD is to put them into "Travel Mode" for driving abroad on the right.

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Woops, just shows you a little knowledge can be dangerous, I will leave the screws alone and check with my dealer.  And yes did change to Travel Mode, made little difference to the length of the beam, it centralised them.  Many thanks to all responses.

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You're not going to damage anything using the adjustment screws...

 

All the two adjustment screws do is move the frame the AFS motors and projector attach to. The car is completely unaware of what position the frame is in, only the position the headlight projector is in relative to the frame.

 

VCDS is needed to do the basic settings, this puts the headlights in a neutral position and records the level sensor positions while on level ground. This is the best time to do headlight alignment but it certainly isn't a requirement.

 

I would always recommend using a headlight alignment tool to make sure they are correctly aligned to minimise glare to other road users.

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 And yes did change to Travel Mode, made little difference to the length of the beam, it centralised them.  Many thanks to all responses.

The biggest change is it flattens the top of the beam that lights up the verge on the left for us so it does not dazzle oncoming traffic when driving on the right.

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You have checked if there is setting in the MFD  to adjust ?

 

There isn't.

It can only be done with VCDS.

 

You're not going to damage anything using the adjustment screws...

 

All the two adjustment screws do is move the frame the AFS motors and projector attach to. The car is completely unaware of what position the frame is in, only the position the headlight projector is in relative to the frame.

 

VCDS is needed to do the basic settings, this puts the headlights in a neutral position and records the level sensor positions while on level ground. This is the best time to do headlight alignment but it certainly isn't a requirement.

 

I would always recommend using a headlight alignment tool to make sure they are correctly aligned to minimise glare to other road users.

 

And you know this because you have a Yeti?

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The biggest change is it flattens the top of the beam that lights up the verge on the left for us so it does not dazzle oncoming traffic when driving on the right.

 

The bi-xenon on the Yeti doesn't have the ability to change the beam shape/pattern or cutoff, only the beam aim.

 

When tourist mode is activated on a UK car, both headlights will aim down slightly and the passenger headlight will also aim more to the right to put more light in front of the vehicle. On a LHD vehicle, the passenger headlight will move to the left.

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And you know this because you have a Yeti?

 

I know this because I've seen how VAG xenon headlights are put together.

 

Have you any information showing damage to xenon headlights when using the adjustment screws without VCDS?

 

If you were to force an adjustment screw past it's end point then that'll damage it, but that's the same with or without using VCDS.

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The bi-xenon on the Yeti doesn't have the ability to change the beam shape/pattern or cutoff, only the beam aim.

So there is no shutter in the Xenon headlights?

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So there is no shutter in the Xenon headlights?

 

There is a shutter/shield but it only has two positions, closed for dipped beam and open for full/main beam. I'd ignored the full/main beam option for simplicity, when used for full beam there is no cutoff, the shield is simply moved out of the way.

 

When the shutter is closed for dipped beam, it can only produce ECE cutoff shape.This will be LHD or RHD depending on the shape of the cutoff shield fitted when the projector was made. There is no partially open/closed position, nor is there an second shutter to create a flat cutoff for travel mode.

 

To adjust the cutoff or flatten the beam, it would need a roller shutter as there is in the MK3 Superb with smart/dynamic light assist. It's this roller shutter that allows for multiple different beam shapes/cutoff patterns depending on what's needed :)

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To adjust the cutoff or flatten the beam, it would need a roller shutter as there is in the MK3 Superb with smart/dynamic light assist. It's this roller shutter that allows for multiple different beam shapes/cutoff patterns depending on what's needed :)

Wow!

And that's just the headlight........no wonder they're so expensive........is this progress?.

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Wow!

And that's just the headlight........no wonder they're so expensive........is this progress?.

 

I think it's progress... Here is an image taken from an SSP on the '11 Passat showing the roller shutter:

post-121621-0-69155500-1479161518_thumb.png

 

The newer Audi matrix lighting with 25 individual dimmable LED's are very impressive.

post-121621-0-69155500-1479161518_thumb.png

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