Yeti Xenon Lights

[ejstubbs]

According to this post in an earlier thread on this subject, the Xenons in the Yeti can be adjusted without having to set them in the neutral position using VCDS.  I quote:

 

Our Yeti has the Bi-Xenon lights that steer around corners and do the comical up-down-in-out movement each time the lights are switched on. The techie at the delaers said that these lights can be adjusted the old fashioned way using the height adjustment screw as long as the car is sat on a level piece of ground when it is done, as the movement of the lights at switch on is them going through ful movement and re-calibrating themselves to the position set by the screw.

 

Disclaimers:

1) I've not tried this;

2) The post was dated April 2011, so may not be true for the FL Yeti which has more sophisticated xenon headlight wibbly-wobbly steery-weeriness than the pre-FL version.

 

It turns out that there are quite a few threads on this subject in the Yeti section.  You can find them using the forum search function.  I assume that Briskoda must be using the very latest hi-tech online forum software and thus be one of the first in the world to include such a feature, otherwise surely more people would know about it...

Edited 15 November, 2016 by ejstubbs

[gumdrop]

I think it's progress... Here is an image taken from an SSP on the '11 Passat showing the roller shutter:

DLA projector.png

 

The newer Audi matrix lighting with 25 individual dimmable LED's are very impressive.

No more do spies have to flash their lights twice, they

could send the whole coded message with this system

[Frenchtone]

^ think i'll stick with my acetylene gas powered jobs!!! ; - D))

[Ryeman]

^ think i'll stick with my acetylene gas powered jobs!!! ; - D))

Or go for something common and simple, like a Citroen SM )))

[VAGCF]

There is a shutter/shield but it only has two positions, closed for dipped beam and open for full/main beam. I'd ignored the full/main beam option for simplicity, when used for full beam there is no cutoff, the shield is simply moved out of the way.

 

When the shutter is closed for dipped beam, it can only produce ECE cutoff shape.This will be LHD or RHD depending on the shape of the cutoff shield fitted when the projector was made. There is no partially open/closed position, nor is there an second shutter to create a flat cutoff for travel mode.

 

To adjust the cutoff or flatten the beam, it would need a roller shutter as there is in the MK3 Superb with smart/dynamic light assist. It's this roller shutter that allows for multiple different beam shapes/cutoff patterns depending on what's needed

I may be wrong (haven't checked it out) but I seem to remember that the latest Yeti Xenon lights wouldn't have need for a main/dipped beam shutter or any other shutter as the Xenon are only for dipped beam with Halogen for main.

 

And therefore the LHD/RHD choice would be taken care of just by the sidewards movement of the Xenons to prevent dazzleling even when on dipped?

 

As said before the Yeti lights are the best I've had on any car.

[Urrell]

I may be wrong (haven't checked it out) but I seem to remember that the latest Yeti Xenon lights wouldn't have need for a main/dipped beam shutter or any other shutter as the Xenon are only for dipped beam with Halogen for main.

 

And therefore the LHD/RHD choice would be taken care of just by the sidewards movement of the Xenons to prevent dazzleling even when on dipped?

 

 

The Xenon lights are for both high and low beam. The halogen high beam lights are mainly for when flashing as Xenon take a while to get to full brightness.

Have you not noticed the low beams are not flat but have a kick up to the left. Its that that dazzles oncoming cars when parked on the wrong side of road or driving on the right.

This shows it well.

[VAGCF]

Are you sure?

 

Yes, the Xenons are on for low and high beam but I understood in addition that the Halogens came on for high beam to provide a better light pattern with the combined Xenon and Halogen and quicker response from dipped to full without the need for a shutter?

 

I know about the delay with Xenons but wouldn't have thought that they would have provided Halogens mainly for flashing!

 

As said, all from memory so I accept I might be talking utter rubbish!

Edited 15 November, 2016 by VAGCF

[muddyboots]

Does the facelift Yeti use both Xenon and Halogen on main beam then?

Sounds like an improvement over the pre-FL.

Have always been slightly disappointed with the Xenon main beam range on the pre-FL, think my expectations were higher. 

Edited 15 November, 2016 by muddyboots

[Austin 7]

I have a 2012 Yeti Elegance from 2012 (Pre-FL).  I always found the Xenon headlights to be a combination of really good and rubbish, because the dipped beam has a very sharp cutoff and seemed to be too low.  With the amount of traffic these days, the luxury of using full beam is often not available, so I frequently felt that I really couldn't see far enough.  The law doesn't allow an adjustment control on the dash for Xenons.

 

I contemplated adjusting them myself, and as I understand it each lamp has one screw for up/down and one for left/right alignment.  It is quite possible to do this manually without invoking any electronics, you need a long allen key to reach them.  However be prepared for a lot of trial and error as a little tweak can have a big effect.

 

However, if the adjustment needed is simply for both lamps to go up or down by the same amount it is easier to give the job to a dealer to do electronically.  The MOT regulations allow the flat part of the beam to be between -0.5% (minus half a percent) and -2% (minus 2 percent).  The lamps are stamped with a recommended setting of -1% (minus 1 percent),  Unfortunately the car was delivered with them set to about -1.5% judging from the 50 metre distance along the road from the car to the point where the beams reach.

 

So after putting up with this for 4 years I got the garage to adjust them to -0.7%.  With a headlamp height of 750 mm the reach has doubled to 100 metres. What an improvement !  I wished I had done this sooner.  They still pass the MOT and in 12 months  I have never been flashed by anyone to indicate dazzle.

 

A word of warning.  The garage will use beam setting equipment.  As with all technology, it should be OK, but might be faullty.  Similarly, the person using it should know what they are doing, but might not.  The final arbiter is how the headlights perform on the road, not in the workshop.

[Dingdong2]

Wow so much information, yet surprisingly even though I am unlikely to DIY, noone has appeared to address my very first query, where are the screws "under the bonnet". LOL

[langers2k]

Wow so much information, yet surprisingly even though I am unlikely to DIY, noone has appeared to address my very first query, where are the screws "under the bonnet". LOL

 

The screws are on the headlights... Should take a hex key, possibly 6 or 8mm iirc.

 

Please don't adjust them without using a headlight alignment tool to check them!

 

 

[aerofurb]

Does the facelift Yeti use both Xenon and Halogen on main beam then?

Sounds like an improvement over the pre-FL.

Have always been slightly disappointed with the Xenon main beam range on the pre-FL, think my expectations were higher. 

Yup, the FL does indeed use both Xenon (in high beam mode) and the halogen bulb for main/high beam. The result is quite incredible and far brighter than the pre-FL Xenon lights (TIBETs I & II were pre-FL Bi-Xenon equipped).

 

There are some pics of the various modes here (post #7):

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/309565-facelift-xenon-headlights-question/?hl=aerofurb#entry3703325

 

In addition to the amount of light is the fact that the FL has adaptive (AFSII?) headlights. In addition to the normal cornering stuff, the beam changes range and spread depending on speed and road conditions (ie rain) and at low speed the offside light hunts out the kerb on the far side of the road for wayward pedestrians (this is a subtle mode but seen clearly in fog).

 

I found on the pre-FL that on coming traffic missed a flash of high beam during daylight hours. I don't think this was due to the lights 'warming up' rather than the Xenons flashed so quickly, people didn't see it. The halogens do seem to give a more 'seen' flash.

[Macdemon]

I wouldn't mind getting new HiD/Xenon bulbs for my yeti with a 6000K colour temperature, as I don't think the std bulbs are 'white' enough.

 

Are they H4 or H7s???

 

any ideas where I can get the new bulbs from????

 

(thanks everyone and offers them a Mr Kipling Bakewell slice)    

Edited 15 November, 2016 by Macdemon

[silver1011]

Surely 6000k will be more blue not white?

 

This is why the OEM bulbs are around 4300k?

[Llanigraham]

Pre F/L are H4.

Be aware that you will need to put resistors in the circuits otherwise you will get the bulb failure system display.

 

One of the Forum recommended suppliers can provide the "bulbs"

 

As above, 6000k will be very "blue". It was considered the "temperature" to have in the rally world at one time, but most have now returned to 4300k as it gives a more natural light and better contrast.

Edited 15 November, 2016 by Llanigraham

[Pliny]

 

langers2k

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 14:16

And you know this because you have a Yeti?

 

I know this because I've seen how VAG xenon headlights are put together.

 

Have you any information showing damage to xenon headlights when using the adjustment screws without VCDS?

 

 

Clean kill. Zip up  the body bag!

[langers2k]

I wouldn't mind getting new HiD/Xenon bulbs for my yeti with a 6000K colour temperature, as I don't think the std bulbs are 'white' enough.

 

Are they H4 or H7s???

 

Please don't fit a HID kit to a car equipped with reflector style headlights, especially not one designed for H4 bulbs.

 

You will cause glare and dazzle to other road users as the reflector isn't designed for that light source.

 

Standard H4 halogen:

 

Design 1 - HID low beam only:

 

Design 2 - HID low beam with a halogen high bulb stuck below it:

 

Design 3 - HID with a 'shutter' to select low and high beam:

 

Design 4  - Dual HID, separate HID capsules for low and high beam:

 

Not one of these four HID designs will come close to the beam pattern and cutoff that are required to be used on the road. You can tell they are all a complete hack as they vary in design so much!

 

If you want better or whiter lighting and actually want to stay road legal:

- If you want a whiter light, try the Osram cool blue or Philips WhiteVision

- If you want better performance, try the Osram Nightbreaker Ultimate or Philips XtremeVision

- If you want legal xenons, fit OEM xenon headlights and associated control modules/level sensors etc

 

All are legal options and show much more consideration for other road users than a H4 HID kit.

 

If you want a challenge, you can split your headlights and retrofit quality bi-xenon projectors that use a proper Dxx style xenon. This won't be road legal but at least the beam pattern and cutoff will be correct which is a significant step up from the drop in kits.

 

Sorry to the OP for the off topic rant, but the fewer people on our roads using rubbish HID drop in kits the better. Especially on cars such as the pre-FL Yeti with a H4 based reflector that really can't deal with a HID drop in kit.

[Macdemon]

Please don't fit a HID kit to a car equipped with reflector style headlights, especially not one designed for H4 bulbs.

 

You will cause glare and dazzle to other road users as the reflector isn't designed for that light source.

 

Standard H4 halogen:

halogen.jpg

 

Design 1 - HID low beam only:

hid low.jpg

 

Design 2 - HID low beam with a halogen high bulb stuck below it:

halogen high hid low.jpg

 

Design 3 - HID with a 'shutter' to select low and high beam:

hid shutter.jpg

 

Design 4  - Dual HID, separate HID capsules for low and high beam:

hid dual.jpeg

 

Not one of these four HID designs will come close to the beam pattern and cutoff that are required to be used on the road. You can tell they are all a complete hack as they vary in design so much!

 

If you want better or whiter lighting and actually want to stay road legal:

- If you want a whiter light, try the Osram cool blue or Philips WhiteVision

- If you want better performance, try the Osram Nightbreaker Ultimate or Philips XtremeVision

- If you want legal xenons, fit OEM xenon headlights and associated control modules/level sensors etc

 

All are legal options and show much more consideration for other road users than a H4 HID kit.

 

If you want a challenge, you can split your headlights and retrofit quality bi-xenon projectors that use a proper Dxx style xenon. This won't be road legal but at least the beam pattern and cutoff will be correct which is a significant step up from the drop in kits.

 

Sorry to the OP for the off topic rant, but the fewer people on our roads using rubbish HID drop in kits the better. Especially on cars such as the pre-FL Yeti with a H4 based reflector that really can't deal with a HID drop in kit.

 

My Yeti is already equipped with HiD bulbs, I merely wish to change the bulbs for ones that have a higher colour temperature.

[langers2k]

My Yeti is already equipped with HiD bulbs, I merely wish to change the bulbs for ones that have a higher colour temperature.

Cool, then it's probably got D1S bulbs fitted. As you mentioned h4/h7 I assumed you had halogens :-)

The osram cool blue intense are a well regarded xenon bulb, think they are about 5k iirc. Any bluer will reduce the usable light.

[Macdemon]

Thank you.   

[freedie]

Yes 5k is perfect

[andyspan]

The Xenon lights are for both high and low beam. The halogen high beam lights are mainly for when flashing as Xenon take a while to get to full brightness.

Have you not noticed the low beams are not flat but have a kick up to the left. Its that that dazzles oncoming cars when parked on the wrong side of road or driving on the right.

This shows it well.

Dip beam pattern has always had the 'kick up' on the left (on RHD vehicles). Designed, I assume, to light up the left hand road edges. When I did MOTs many years ago this line had to be correctly aligned when checking beam settings. 

[kenycymro]

My 2012 Yeti with Bi-xenon headlamps were set extremely low when I bought it. So low as to be dangerous in my mind.

Followed instructions from a previous post on this forum to adjust them, and boy what a difference.

Feel safe to drive on dip beam now, and no one has ever flashed me to complain (if they were too high).

Only a long allen key needed, and the adjusters were on top of the headlight bodies.

[Totally Square]

On 15/11/2016 at 21:47, aerofurb said:

...In addition to the amount of light is the fact that the FL has adaptive (AFSII?) headlights. In addition to the normal cornering stuff, the beam changes range and spread depending on speed and road conditions (ie rain) and at low speed the offside light hunts out the kerb on the far side of the road for wayward pedestrians (this is a subtle mode but seen clearly in fog).

...

Is the dip beam adaptive too? 

 

If so mine might be defective - i.e. they are likely in the limp-home lowest dip setting as it is only showing 20m of lit road! As per 

http://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/forum/xenon-headlights_topic3576_post43430.html#43430 

After the 1st service asking for a headlight check the dealer (Marshall Oxford) declared them "in spec" :(

 

If not then I may adjust as per 

 

[137699]

IF they're set to 20m in front of you then it means the emergency mode has been activated - this is a system that kicks in after an accident to ensure they're pointing down so as not to dazzle oncoming vehicles as aim cannot be guaranteed after an impact.