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Drivers door won't open (from inside or out)


JamieP86

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Afternoon all,

As above, my driver's side door won't open from either the inside or outside handles.

The handles have resistance on them, I.e. they spring back to original position, but don't have the 'two stage' resistance where it opens the lock.

It electrically locks fine from both remote and key in barrel (which also turns fine)

Any ideas?

Cheers!

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Further to the issue above, just tried go out to the car.

Car unlocked with remote, went to lock, and doesn't lock by remote but turns interior light off like it has locked.

Locking from key works and operates central locking as expected.

Help!

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Further to the issue above, just tried go out to the car.

Car unlocked with remote, went to lock, and doesn't lock by remote but turns interior light off like it has locked.

Locking from key works and operates central locking as expected.

Help!

Mine had similar problem. The symptoms described are those caused by the motor mechanism when moving into and out of the second stage of locking.

I fixed mine by swamping the door mechanism with light lubricants such as GT85 and others. With the door open there are sufficient gaps near the lock to squirt in lubricant using the supplied straw - moving it around to try to get to all likely parts. Then, using the key, open and close the lock many times, then repeat the treatment. This worked on all four of my doors at different times. I also took off the door cards later and sprayed lubricant over the rest of the lock mechanism from the inside. You will be surprised how dry and corroded the locks looked.

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Deadbolt in the lock mech is fubared.

30quid pattern part ex china on fleabay.

Theres a guide on how to open the door while locked :)

It involves subtlety and brute force but works.

Initially, try thumping the door panel just behind the lock barrel while you lock/unlock. Sometimes get lucky and it shakes itself free.

Edited by mac11irl
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Thanks for the reply, but...

Unfortunately I can't get the door open as per first post!

I must have misunderstood you as you had written:

"Locking from key works and operates central locking as expected".

Others have managed to open a door by banging on the door outer panel whilst using the key or remote.

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May have been my crap explanation, the central locking functions, but that drivers side door still doesn't open.

I'll have to have a go at giving it a whack to initially open it up.

Definitely doror stripping time to get the mechanism out.

In my case, the shootiing plastic deadbolt had worn out the end of the screw it runs down over time and basically pops off the end leaving it in place so it wont let the clasp release in the lock. The thump can be lucky and bounce it enough to catch the thread and spin it back. Or it may just stick and not come bavk back - thus lots of lube. Other way is the door strip and cut open the lock mech casing to wind the bolt back manually by the cog.

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So what exactly at fault if it is the issue above you described?

I.e. what replacement part do I need!

This

http://www.google.ie/search?q=mk1+octavia+drivers+door+lock+mechanism&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjPzPXIxs7QAhXBI8AKHSbdBCwQ_AUICCgB&biw=320&bih=406&dpr=1.5#imgrc=ZBG3OFxM-xd1cM%3A

Ebay search for a mk1 octavia front right lock mechanism. Theres loads for sale, and the pattern parts arent any more expensive than the 2nd hand ones (which are likely to fail anyway due to the same issue yours has)

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Roger that, cheers for the help, will hopefully be able to get at this on the weekend and see what the issue is.

Have another issue of a wet rear foot well to also deal with too!

These cars are great! Lol.

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Roger that, cheers for the help, will hopefully be able to get at this on the weekend and see what the issue is.

Have another issue of a wet rear foot well to also deal with too!

These cars are great! Lol.

That will be caused by someone having stripped the door (probably changing a lock) and re sealing it properly.

Or... scuttle tray drains under windscreen (behind the wheel arch liners) being full of leaves and compost. Water backs up and gets in under the carpet via the grommet for the bonnet release cable :D

the water runs to rear footwell because of floor pan shape

Edited by mac11irl
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Strange one, but it fixed itself.

I think it had something to do with the freezing weather and the fact I went through a car wash the day before (only water jets, not brushes don't worry)

I assume the amount of water used, some must have got into some where then froze causing issues with something in the door.

As when it wasn't freezing overnight, it opened as normal.

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Which issue fixed itself, the disc changer or the lock?

The lock can be intermittent, as the slider (deadbolt) can catch the thread and run back on occasion. Might work fine for a week or only until you lock it again then jump the end of the thread and your goosed.. again..

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  • 1 year later...

Try banging on the door a few times, this often works, then you can get access to the lock handle mechanism from inside the door which can be stripped down, freed up or replaced. The microswitch often goes on these too as it wears out and is near impossible to fix without replacement. This is not an easy job as all the inside panal has to be removed with the lock mechanism being part of that.  I seem to remember it is better to remove the door card and lock together as it make re-fitting easier. It is a bit of a fiddle to work out how the whole thing works, but satisfying when mastered.

 

Edited by tigerbiker
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  • 1 year later...
On 28/11/2016 at 22:19, mac11irl said:

Deadbolt in the lock mech is fubared.

30quid pattern part ex china on fleabay.

Theres a guide on how to open the door while locked :)

It involves subtlety and brute force but works.

Initially, try thumping the door panel just behind the lock barrel while you lock/unlock. Sometimes get lucky and it shakes itself free.

Where can I find the guide to opening the door while locked? Can get in front passenger door but drivers is unopenable. Well try thumping.

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