My Octavia ran out of diesel

[Michaelp60]

Hi all,

My Octavia recently ran out of diesel recently, after I put fuel in it started after a bit of cranking, now the problem, it has started running poor especially when cold, the engine wont pull and there is a lot of smoke and a sort of a fast rattling type of noise, after a few seconds the engine seems fine and no smoke or noise, switch the engine off for literally a few seconds and it all starts again then clears.

 

Have I damaged something by running out of fuel or was I supposed to do something before I attempted to re start the engine after running out of fuel.

The fuel filter hasn't been changed for about 3-4 years! I didn't know it had to be changed periodically, could this be the problem?

 

Any advice would be much appreciated

 

Thanks in advance

Michael

[mac11irl]

Id change the filter as it have slurped a hunk of sediment out of the tank bottom when it was running out.

Also, deoending on the exact engine, its recommended to bleed the fuel line by loosening an injector joiner to allow fuel through and release the air that will have sucked in as it ran out

[Michaelp60]

Hi,

thank you very much for your reply, I will get a new filter today.

Please forgive my ignorance but where would I find out if the fuel does need bleeding?

 

Michael

[petrolbloke]

I thought the sediment/gunk at the bottom of the tank was a myth...

 

Lots of info about this if you do a google search.

 

I would replace the fuel filter for good measure and then bleed the system fully (you need to do this anyway when changing the fuel filter).

[octyal]

I thought the sediment/gunk at the bottom of the tank was a myth...

 

Lots of info about this if you do a google search.

 

I would replace the fuel filter for good measure and then bleed the system fully (you need to do this anyway when changing the fuel filter).

 

It's not as bad these days since they started using plastic tanks - although that doesn't allow for any particles that may get sucked into the tank when filling, especially from an older fuel station for example, there will be a risk of particulates getting into the system. Couple that with the potential for internal breakdown of metal lines, and in this case, the filter itself degrading as it hasn't been changed for a few years.

[JamieP86]

Did you run the car fully out of fuel? Did you bleed the system or just fuel and go?

You have to bleed on a diesel because the injector pumps don't work if there's even the smallest amount of air in them. You have to bleed the air completely from the fuel lines and injector pumps before the engine will start and run properly.

[Michaelp60]

Yes the car did fully run out of fuel, this happened a few weeks ago. I got some fuel and after some cranking over the engine started and ran fine for about three weeks or so then the problem that i posted about started.

 

I changed the fuel filter today and again after some cranking the engine started and again is running fine, during the course of today the engine has been stopped and started a few times and has never missed a beat, I don't know how to bleed a diesel engine but would be wary in case I did anything wrong if I found out how to do it.

 

I am a firm believer in leaving well alone.

 

Michael

[nige8021]

Crack the supply pipe going to the #3 cylinder, wrap a rag around it, get a helper to start the engine, then after a minute or two of running, tighten the supply pipe, and that should of got any air out of the system 

 

This is assuming it's not the PD engine ?

Edited 2 December, 2016 by nige8021

[Michaelp60]

That sounds fairly easy even for me, I am assuming that the supply pipe fixing will be very tight, is it easy to get at? 

As a matter of interest, why #3 cylinder?

 

Michael

[nige8021]

The #3 has the needle lift sensor and that's the one to bleed, however if it running OK and you can't see any air bubbles in the clear plastic pipe from the filter, it doesn't need bleeding, here's the info from the dealer manual Octy TDi Replacing the fuel filter.doc

 

To get at the fuel pipes you need to remove the plastic engine cover, the pipe nut will be tight, but as I said before this is only applicable to the non PD engines

Edited 2 December, 2016 by nige8021

[Michaelp60]

Thanks for your reply

 

I had a look at the clear pipe just before and i think there might be air in the system, unfortunately I cant open the file you attached for me, after the engine cover is removed which cylinder is #3 and what is a non PD engine?

 

Sorry for the questions but as you will have guessed I know nothing at all about cars, I only just managed to change the fuel filter earlier.

 

thank you

Michael

[nige8021]

Have a look at your V5 logbook the engine serial number will be three letters like ASV, ALH, AGR, AHF these are NON PD engine codes ATD & ASZ are the PD on the Non PD engines you have the lift pump on the front of the engine with metal pipes running to each cylinder, the PD has the pump on the end of the camcover

 

If you have the non PD the fuel lines to the injectors need to be torqued to 25Nm

[Michaelp60]

Thanks for replying, sorry but I cannot understand your reply.

 

Michael

[devonutopia]

When you turn ignition before starting, do you hear a whooshy / gurgling noise from the fuel tank?

[Michaelp60]

Just checked V5 form, engine number starts with ALH

 

Michael

[Michaelp60]

When you turn ignition before starting, do you hear a whooshy / gurgling noise from the fuel tank?

 

Cant say I have noticed any sounds.

 

Michael

[Saints92]

I thought the sediment/gunk at the bottom of the tank was a myth...

 

 

Not Skoda related, but I had a fuel tank out a 2004 Nissan Micra last year, and there wasn't a single bit of gunk or sediment in the tank.

 

There was, however, a crisp packet.

[nige8021]

That is a non PD engine, hence you not hearing any noise from the fuel tank as these engines don't have an electric pump in the tank,

[Michaelp60]

That is a non PD engine, hence you not hearing any noise from the fuel tank as these engines don't have an electric pump in the tank,

So does the engine still need to be bled?

 

Michael

[nige8021]

If there is no bubbles in the clear tube then no, as it says in that document " Accelerate repeatedly. Subsequently at idling speed the fuel must flow bubble-free through the transparent line." 

[SuperbTWM]

Even though the old injection pumps are not as sensitive as the newer HPFP's you could still of damaged it by running it dry. Hopefully you can crack the injector lines and have a play about and cure the issues you are having but the symptoms of the smoke and the noises don't look promising to me

Edited 2 December, 2016 by SuperbTWM

[Michaelp60]

Many thanks for your replies, I will double check that in the morning, if there is air in the tranparent pipe and it needs bleeding will I be able to tell which cylinder is #3/

 

Thanks again

Michael

[nige8021]

#1 is at the timing belt end (left end as you look in the engine bay)

[Michaelp60]

#1 is at the timing belt end (left end as you look in the engine bay)

.Thank you so much for your help/advice nige8021, and thank you very much to everyone else who has posted with reply's of help and advice.

 

Regards and thanks to you all

Michael

[yesiamtom]

Honest question...

 

Why would you need to bleed air from the injector? If you look at the mickey mouse clip on top of the fuel filter you will see it almost never fits 100%, if you run the engine at idle then wiggle this about a tiny amount you will see air appearing in the lines as you move it around. In fact, anecdotally from my own experience and reading tdi club air in the lines is very common, although that doesn't mean it's desirable of course! 

 

I recently replaced some of the old fuel lines and managed to reduce the air by getting the mickey mouse clip as tight as possible (small amount of bending).