Boot light

[Manueltn78]

Hi, I have same problem:

Light don't power on when I open tailgate, but on maxidot tailgate is show ad open ( same switch?).

I bring an gnd cable to light and it work.

Prior to remove latch, someone can tell me if opening front door, boot light turn on?

If there is only a mechanical switch, why light stay off, but DOT show open and turn on other light?

Thank you

[Urrell]

Prior to remove latch, someone can tell me if opening front door, boot light turn on?

Neither boot light turns on when passenger doors are opened.

[voxmagna]

Hi, I have same problem:

Light don't power on when I open tailgate, but on maxidot tailgate is show ad open ( same switch?).

I bring an gnd cable to light and it work.

Prior to remove latch, someone can tell me if opening front door, boot light turn on?

If there is only a mechanical switch, why light stay off, but DOT show open and turn on other light?

Thank you

 

 

The luggage compartment light ground side is connected to a switch in the lock unit and to the onboard supply unit module.

 

 

I suspect the info display is getting the switch signal via the connection to the onboard supply unit control module and it would get the same good signal if the bulb was blown or there was a bad connection in the bulb holder. Try fault finding the wiring and diode as I suggested.

[Gnomeface]

There can also be a much simpler solution.  My pre-FL model boot light stopped working, but when I took the light unit out and tested, all was OK and it worked when put back in.  It failed again after a couple of weeks, and this cycle repeated half a dozen times.  In the end I found that vibration would shake the bulb slightly loose in its holder (cheap design);  bending the contacts slightly worked for a few weeks then it started all over again.

End solution - I bought a compatible complete LED light unit 2 years ago and got 5 times the light, and it's been 100% reliable since.

[Manueltn78]

8 hours ago, voxmagna said:

 

 

 

I suspect the info display is getting the switch signal via the connection to the onboard supply unit control module and it would get the same good signal if the bulb was blown or there was a bad connection in the bulb holder. Try fault finding the wiring and diode as I suggested.

I tried to bring gnd to lamp and it work!

so if maxi dot get dame contact from latch, i don't know Why lamp not work But maxi dot say tailgate open!

[muddyjim]

54 minutes ago, Manueltn78 said:

I tried to bring gnd to lamp and it work!

so if maxi dot get dame contact from latch, i don't know Why lamp not work But maxi dot say tailgate open!

Have you tried (with the tailgate shut) grounding the lamp - does it light the lamp AND maxidot say tailgate is open? If it does then it must be a poor switch or its wiring having a resistance too high to light the bulb but low enough to operate the maxidot?

Edited 23 January, 2017 by muddyjim

[Manueltn78]

27 minutes ago, muddyjim said:

Have you tried (with the tailgate shut) grounding the lamp - does it light the lamp AND maxidot say tailgate is open? If it does then it must be a poor switch or its wiring having a resistance too high to light the bulb but low enough to operate the maxidot?

I tried to simulate tailgate colsed with a screwdriver and maxidot Say closed, grounded lamp work, Buy I didn't see if maxidot went to show open....

It seem to have 2 switch, one for ECU and one mechanical for the light

[Jsstelt]

Same problem here! 
Anyone found a solution yet? 
 

I disassembled the lock and there are to micro switches and both are ok! I replaced the whole lock with one from ebay, this does'nt solve it. 
There is a 12V reading by the lamp, is the ground wire switched inside the lock by one of the microswitches? 

[JulieD]

If you’ve got 12 volts across the wiring plug then either the bulb has blown or the light fitting is faulty.  We had to replace the light unit in our old Yeti earlier this year, but looking on the bright side (forgive the pun!) it was only about ten quid.

[Forty45]

I also have a non working boot light.

I've read this and the post on Briskoda and carried out some tests.

 

1- removed the bulb light and checked it lit.

2- confirmed the glove box light illuminates.

3 - found there is almost 12v on the red/blue wire side of the bulb holder and nearly 0v on the other (brown/blue) side. This is not by probing the wire into the socket, but touching the metal in the bulb holder. I assume this confirms the diode is OK.

4 - the Maxidot does not show the tailgate as "open". I attached a wire to the brown/blue side of the holder and grounded it. This caused the Maxidot to show the tailgate as "open" regardless of it being open or shut.

 

Am I correct in thinking the results above point to the tailgate lock being open circuit (possibly due to a microswitch failing)?

[Greenliner1]

Same issue last night, no boot lights but removable / rechargeable  lamp comes on very dimly so connection to boot lock ground seems OK. Glove box light working, but no live at boot lights. Earth OK.  Can’t see the diode but I suspect that it’s the culprit or a dodgy connection.

Maxidot can’t see boot status anymore. SWMBO reported the lights flickering before failure. I don’t have the precise electrical drawing.

 

Well you could blow me down with a feather! Just checked this morning and the light is working again and the maxidot can see it. The live to the boot light is switched on this model and the earth is permanent. The issue now is the removable torch stays dim when the boot is closed, the torch appears OK as I swapped it with the Kodiaq and it’s just the same. Now to get the torch holder out and investigate this. 

Edited 13 February, 2022 by Greenliner1
New info

[Forty45]

My car doesn't have the removable lamp. I concluded the boot latch had failed (not from any sound diagnosis as I couldn't get consistent readings) and replaced it. After I ordered it (AliExpress) I noticed the light would come on some times, that seemed due to the lamp connector not making the best connection, so that could have been the cause all along. Anyway, new latch and it all works again. I replaced the lamp with a 6 LED unit which makes a huge difference.

Getting the plastic off to replace the latch is a real challenge though. Had to get the special VW plastic wedge to assist doing that.

[Greenliner1]

@Forty45 I’ve changed the boot latch too previously when the white plastic worm drive sheared (common issue), the latch is the easy bit, and as you say the unclipping is the issue. I used wooden spoons😀 Everything worked OK after.

 

Again it’s accessing the parts without stripping the car to pieces or snapping plastic tabs off.

 

I’m an electrical / electronic engineer by trade but cars are something else…

[Forty45]

Interesting you say that. Electrics isn't something I know much about, but some of the car diagnostic guys on you tube make it look so easy.

[Greenliner1]

After a bit of prodding this evening it appears to be a broken wire or wires in the top left hand loom flex.

 

Now all I’ve got to go is work out how to access the break and repair / replace the loom.

 

I can’t leave it for too long as there’s a risk of further breaks and possible shorting / failure of other boot parts.

 

 

[Forty45]

That doesn't sound good. The flexi looks a pain to move. You may have to remove to tailgate plastic and/or the roof lining to get to the wires. Good luck.

[Greenliner1]

Thanks, I’m guessing as you say lots of trim off. I’ll get the wooden spoons back out!

 

My friend has done similar repairs on a Superb and tells me the loom is tightly bound. We’ll see soon enough.

 

I suppose it’ll depends on what I find to the extent of repair needed, fingers crossed.

 

 

[Greenliner1]

All sorted!
 

The hose that runs through the top left bellows had split resulting in a water leak when operating the rear wash (nothing seen in boot) and breaking of two cores next to it as it became a point of flexing. Water had also contaminated the plugs further down the loom resulting in bad connections / corrosion on the wiring to the tailgate.

 

A good auto electrician by me found this out and replaced the broken wires, replaced the section of washer tube (so no connectors inside the bellows) and sorted out the plugs / sockets. 
 

All working again and major boot issues narrowly avoided.

 

On reflection the only external tell-tale of this happening is that the rear washer jet sort of drained down after use, dribbling on after use. I initially put this down to old age (from personal experience 😀) but it was a sign that the pipe was leaking and air was getting in after use. So if you see similar be warned to get it sorted sooner than later to minimise damage.

 

Edited 24 February, 2022 by Greenliner1
Typo