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1.2 TSI - oil change (any guides?)


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Hi All,

I am doing an oil change on my Skoda Rapid this Saturday. I am going to use a Pela 6000 to get the oil out. I have bought some Petronas 5000 AV 5w30 oil, after looking around this seems good for my mileage (over 10k) and style (dual carriage way) - can anyone confirm this is OK?

 

Wanting to check the procedure for doing the change etc. e.g. do I need to unplug the battery, do I need to warm car up first etc.

 

Anything that could help.

 

Thanks.

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Hi

Your oil choice is fine, just make sure it's the version of Petronas 5000 AV 5w30 that conforms to VW 504/507 spec, rather than generic 5w30.

What is a Pela 6000? Just undo the sump plug and let the oil drain out naturally.

Do not disconnect the battery. Helps if the car is warm as the oil will be thinner and will drain out easier.

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I've not done mine yet, a warranty thing, so let the local garage do it.

 

Assuming it's just sump plug out, drain, replace the filter, (plug in, see below) new oil in.

 

The only thing I don't know yet, is it a replacement washer, or plug/washer for the sump?

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Skoda say new plug and washer, but in reality a new washer is all you need. The sump plug on the Rapid is robust and can be reused no problem.

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Hi All,

I am doing an oil change on my Skoda Rapid this Saturday. I am going to use a Pela 6000 to get the oil out. I have bought some Petronas 5000 AV 5w30 oil, after looking around this seems good for my mileage (over 10k) and style (dual carriage way) - can anyone confirm this is OK?

 

Wanting to check the procedure for doing the change etc. e.g. do I need to unplug the battery, do I need to warm car up first etc.

 

Anything that could help.

 

Thanks.

 

Presuming it's the EA111 version with timing chain and oil filter at high level (top left looking from the front). Ensure you fit an OEM filter, be careful not to drown the alternator with oil and when fe-fitting do not overtighten otherwise you may cause an internal oil leak back to sump  (mechanism to drain oil back when releasing the old filter) and cause a drop in oil pressure which may damage the engine and affect the pressurisation of the timing chain tensioner.

Edited by bigjohn
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Presuming it's the EA111 version with timing chain and oil filter at high level (top left looking from the front). Ensure you fit an OEM filter, be careful not to drown the alternator with oil and when fe-fitting do not overtighten otherwise you may cause an internal oil leak back to sump  (mechanism to drain oil back when releasing the old filter) and cause a drop in oil pressure which may damage the engine and affect the pressurisation of the timing chain tensioner.

 

Thank you for the info here, yes it is the timing chain and oil filter at high level.

 

I have bought a MANN filter is this fine? (from Euro car parts)

 

I will cover below the filter with absorbent paper to avoid drowning the alternator.

 

I'm going to do the oil change tomorrow.

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The filter contains a valve so oil loss from the filter is almost negligible. But yes, some rag / absorbent paper on the alternator is a good move - there's the odd drip. Warm oil easier to pump out (and will have more of the accumulated grot in suspension).

However, that valve - while a nice idea on paper - cannot be relied on to actually work, even in the genuine VW oil filter. Twice said valve has buckled and failed when the oil filter has been removed during servicing on my Spaceback. Fortunately the people working on my car are equally distrusting (having had previous experience of hem failing) and have always covered the alternator etc. below before removal.

I would still recommend gravity over pumping of the oil on a relatively new car, as what little crap might be in the sump will come out with the flow.

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However, that valve - while a nice idea on paper - cannot be relied on to actually work, even in the genuine VW oil filter. Twice said valve has buckled and failed when the oil filter has been removed during servicing on my Spaceback. Fortunately the people working on my car are equally distrusting (having had previous experience of hem failing) and have always covered the alternator etc. below before removal.

I would still recommend gravity over pumping of the oil on a relatively new car, as what little crap might be in the sump will come out with the flow.

 

If the one way valve within the filter isn't working correctly oil will flow back into the sump overnight giving a delay in oil pressure buildup the next morning. This can potentially cause cam chain issues as there will be a delay before the tensioner is pressurised. As mentioned above the valve can be damaged when being fitted or removed

 

Very much agreed about properly removing sump plug to change the oil

Edited by bigjohn
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Fortunately, for me the the one-way valve failure issue Has only happened at the moment you undo the filter, if you are unlucky can catch and lift as you undo and remove the filter, letting the oil out. Failing in mid use, which I agree would cause oil pressure issues. Luckily I've not knowingly experienced that yet.

Edited by chrisgreen
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Fortunately, for me the the one-way valve failure issue Has only happened at the moment you undo the filter, if you are unlucky can catch and lift as you undo and remove the filter, letting the oil out. Failing in mid use, which I agree would cause oil pressure issues. Luckily I've not knowingly experienced that yet.

 

In the past Skoda used the "alleged" mis-fitting of the oil filter (even if OEM) by a non Skoda dealer as an excuse to not pay out for any cam chain issues

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Xman summed this up well on the Fabia 2 forum. "For engines built after 2012, however, you should not have camchain problems, provided....

1. Oil changes have been done on time. Important! To stop chain link pivots wearing and therefore chains stretching.

2. The oil filter has been fitted correctly.*

*Point 2, the oil filter has a spring loaded inner oil seal that covers a machined return to sump gallery in the filter housing. This seal closes that gallery and it only opens when the filter is partly spun off, to drain the filter before its taken off completely and stop oil spilling all over the engine. The filter needs to be tight enough to ensure the seal is closed, but also not too tight as the spring bottoms out and the rubber seal distorts which compromises the seal allowing the filter to drain slowly when the engine is stood, which in turn can release the hydraulic chain tensioner. That leads to a chain rattle on start up before the hydraulic tensioner is pressurised and potential for the chain jumping the drive sprockets if the chain is stretched.

Unfortunately, and I have ample proof of this with both my 1.2tsi cars, my dealer grossly over tightens the filter distorting/compromising that all important seal."

 

Taking my dealer fitted oil filter off required over 50 Nm of torque. Fitting torque is only 20 Nm. Stiction or an enthusiastic dealer monkey? You decide.

 

Here's the technique for removal from the self study programme;

 

Notes on flter changing:
• First unscrew the oil flter cartridge approx. 2 – 3 turns.
• Allow the contents of the flter to drain off (wait approx. 2 – 3
minutes).
• As a safety precaution, place a cleaning cloth below the flter
module.

  • Thanks 1
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Hi All,

Thank you for the information,

 

Are you all suggesting I do not bother to use the Pela 6000 oil extractor - will there be any harm in using it? I've not got a wrench set currently but can get my hands on one. I'm a week over on the oil change already on the car now (about 125miles) so not wanting to leave it much longer.

 

Can I get under the car without a jack?

Edited by hr21
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Think about all those marine engines out there - can they get to the sump plug and put a drain pan underneath? Pela 6000 is a great invention - saves mashing your sump threads up too. If you're truly concerned about what's in the sump, the only way to be sure is to drop the sump pan and inspect thoroughly (Saab 9-5s used to have a sludge issue which could only be fixed by doing this drop).

 

125 miles / 1 week not a huge issue. 1000 miles / 1 month would bother me.

 

Getting under the car without a jack only possible if you don't eat many pies. But your extractor means you don't have to.

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  • 2 years later...

Old thread, new question......might be a daft question too :wait: :biggrin:

 

I've done a few oil changes in my time but I was wondering on the Toledo/Rapids with the vertical oil filter....most filters require you to fill or part fill them with oil before fitting, how does that work on this filter or do I just fit it empty?  I can imagine it just flowing back out again when I invert the filter for fitting? :notme:

 

BTW from this year I'm self servicing mine and saving a few bob.

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Have always fitted them empty to mine. Just rub a bit of oil around the rubber gasket for a good seal, but that’s all. 

  • Like 1
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Make sure you've removed the old seal that might have been left behind from your old filter and lurking in the housing under the black oil. Personally I sometimes use the pump taken from a liquid soap container to remove some of the black oil in the housing (pump it into the empty hand wash container). Lightly lubricate rubber seals on the new filter and fit empty.

 

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On 26/03/2019 at 00:01, xman said:

Make sure you've removed the old seal that might have been left behind from your old filter and lurking in the housing under the black oil. Personally I sometimes use the pump taken from a liquid soap container to remove some of the black oil in the housing (pump it into the empty hand wash container). Lightly lubricate rubber seals on the new filter and fit empty.

 

 

Well I found an extra rubber seal in the oil filter housing, it matches the rubber seal on the filter taken out, obviously it wasn't that one as that was still intact on the fiter. My trusted (not so much now) local garage must have left it in there. I'm also guessing there shouldn't be one in there loose floating around? :wait:

I'm almost convinced my sump drain plug has never been off, so previously I reckon all places have sucked the oil out, I don't like that.:thumbdown:

Edited by MickA
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  • 2 weeks later...

I concur, not a fan of suction removal for an oil change unless there’s no other option, much rather it goes out the bottom as gravity does a better job of getting more of the sludge etc. at the base of the sump out. 

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If you have sludge and are doing Fixed Service Intervals or even variable you have a problem.

You could always try suction with oil at operating temperature and get the oil out and then replace the Sump plug and get out any residue and see if there is sludge.

But then as the top line, you have issues if there is. 

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On 07/04/2019 at 21:22, chrisgreen said:

I concur, not a fan of suction removal for an oil change unless there’s no other option, much rather it goes out the bottom as gravity does a better job of getting more of the sludge etc. at the base of the sump out. 

 

I thought same as you - then I got a car with a undertray/sump guard that was made of steel and takes two or three people to get back in place - it is an utter PITA to get back in place

 

I bought a vacuum extraction unit

 

I extracted the oil with the vac unit

 

I then removed the sump guard and removed the sump plug

 

I got less than an egg cup full of oil left in the sump

 

If you change your oil at a sensible interval I see absolutely nothing wrong with using vacuum extraction

 

If you change you oil once in a blue moon or when it is more like treacle than oil I can't recommend one

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