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Wheel bearing, anyone done one?


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do both as if one has gone the other will go within 12months :)

i have done my own but you will need some pressing equipement if they are like the octavia and make sure you put the bearing into the carrier then the split ring thingy(can't remember its name) and then the hub into the bearing unlike the idiot mechanic that ruined £70 worth of my bearings :mad:

once a bearing has been put in it will get destroyed on removale no matter how old it is.

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How many miles has it done? Before you dismantle the hub, check the tyre carefully by substitution as sometimes a faulty tyre can cause this type of noise. The wheel bearing is entirely separate from the CV joint and the latter will be unlikely to be faulty if the boot is intact.

I have changed a front wheel bearing on a B5 Passat - same car as Superb. I would not attempt this job without a hydraulic press and suitable mandrels to support the bearing races. You will also need a Sykes puller to get the inner race of the old bearing off the hub. The whole lot is very tight. Haynes manual 4279 (Passat 00 - 05) explains the job reasonably well.

rotodiesel.

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Oh dear! I've never had to use a press on a bearing yet, and i've done a few, but not Passats/Superbs. Are we all sure that this job can not be done using big hammers/a big vice and the right sized drifts to remove and refit the bearing?

Anyone got a drawing of this they can send me?

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DONT use a hammer and drift to push the bearing in or out!

you need to apply pressure in the right places with a press or a vice and some spacers otherwise you risk damaging the bearing races inside. you will also need some big heavy duty snap ring pliers too

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Like i said i have replaced a lot of wheel bearings. I have usually only used a big vice, hammers and drifts, the old bearing is usually useful to use as a drift to knock the new bearing in. I usually cut the bearing along its axis with a grinder so that if it pushes the new bearing in and it itself enters the "Fit" it can be removed easily because its diamer can be reduced and removed. I've found that as long as something doesnt need 10 tonnes of pressure to fit it, wheel bearing replacement can be done ok with the correct drifts, spacers, a big vice and a good selection of hammers.

A couple of questions,

Is the ouside of the outer race a tight fit into something (hub, carrier(?))

Is the inside of the inner race a tight fit onto something (usually the end of the driveshaft)?

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you dont need to reduce the diameter of the outer race of the old bearing to use it as a pusher because the area that the bearing goes into is exactly the right width for the bearing, then the bit where the snap ring goes is a bigger diameter...(this is really difficult to describe without pictures!)

tight fit?? in engineering speak it's called am interference fit! or in laymans terms, it's tighter than you could bash it in with a hammer without ****ing it up, also care has to be taken to make sure it is pushed in straight otherwise you could distort the bearing.

the bearing is an interference fit in the bearing carrier, the hib (flange) is an interference fit into the inner bearing race, the inside of the hub(flange is splined to accept the driveshaft, the drive shaft is secure with a self locking nut

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Didnt want to start using technical terms (H7 H8 H9 etc) coz i didnt know who i was talking to. I did me engineering appreniceship and had to create the different fits and be marked on em.

I'll have a go at it and take it round me mates who has got an even bigger vice than i've got if i need to, i'll post on here tomorrow night and tell you how it went.

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On the B5, the driveshaft is locked to the hub with a large bolt (socket head) rather than the usual nut with a crimp sleeve. This is tight and rusty (thanks, VW for not plating it) and will need to be renewed as it is a stretch bolt - see manual.

Both the bearing outer and inner are a very tight fit on this job - if you adopt the usual trade trick of bashing it in, the raceways will become Brinelled (balls cause indentations in raceways) and the job will have to be done again. This is why so many back street (and a few main dealer) jobs end up being done twice. Go carefully, and don't bodge.

rotodiesel.

PS. Just taken off the front hubcap on my Superb - it's the same old rusty bolt as on the B5. You'll find it's tight.

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:iagree: sounds like the same as the octavia, if so then they are very tight. i had my brother one side bracing the hub with a bar and me on the other undoing the bolt as i did both at the same time. was a bit awkward.

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Have you tried using studding and washers on a B5 front hub? Luckily, where I work, I have access to all kinds of powerful tools including a 30 tonne press. I had to take the steering knuckle assembly into work to get the old bearing out and press the new one in without damage.

rotodiesel.

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Have you tried using studding and washers on a B5 front hub?.

yes! it's nearly impossible!

luckily i have a 50ton press in my garage at home:) and even that's not big enough to move some of the more stubborn wheel bearings

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Found a good place for the jack, removed all of the caps on the wheel nuts, looked for the anti-steal-spline, not there, i know it was there when i said i'd have the car, they renewed one of the tyres before i had it and obviously didnt replace it. It will cost more in deisel to go and fetch it so i'm going to have to buy my own, are they a specialist spline or a big Torx?

Mission aborted for today i'm afraid. Tomorrow too, looks like its next week then.

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