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Gearbox oil ... when to change ?


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Apparantly you haven't seen tha latest news? The girls of East Midlands might have gone unmolested lately, but now he's up and running again...:D

Just replied to it! we need to find somewhere else to postwhore...

:D

I have to say though that I fear that ladeeys running in the east midlands should be able to dodge him.. spi aint the way forward:rofl:

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My Uncle didn't like it that much saying the brakes felt weak and that the skoda badge lacks "prestige" when I said I'd replace my Felly with the Fabia VRs or an Octavia

I'm beginning to think the soft brake pedal is a Skoda trait. But slam your foot to the floor and the brakes are definitely there :)

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I'm beginning to think the soft brake pedal is a Skoda trait. But slam your foot to the floor and the brakes are definitely there :)

:)If you've got VW rear drum brakes [which every Skoda with rear drums from and including the Mk2 Favorit does] and you want a better, firmer brake pedal try this:

Slacken both handbrake cables right off [2 10mm nuts under the lever]. Remove rear drums, knock down the adjuster wedges [that are meant to adjust automatically but never do] till the drum just fits over the shoes. Obviously while the drums are off check the shoes, cylinders, springs and clean out the dust ect. Refit drums, reset cables and try the pedal and handbrake lever. You'll find that the cables won't need to be tightened as much, the handbrake will be better, and best of all the pedal will be firmer. Don't overdo it and end up with binding rear brakes though.:thumbup:

Basically it's pretty rare for any automatic shoe adjusters to work, no matter which make or model!;)

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No worries it was very helpful anyway and I'll take the blame as I started it, all my fault ;) I have noticed my handbrake getting slacker and wondered how much is the cable stretching and how much is the brake shoes wearing in.

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It's the man, not the machine and we all know that Skoda driving men are REAL men :D

Yep, if you have a small didgeridoo try to compensate with a BMW, Mercedes, Bentley etc :rofl:

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:)If you've got VW rear drum brakes [which every Skoda with rear drums from and including the Mk2 Favorit does] and you want a better, firmer brake pedal try this:

Slacken both handbrake cables right off [2 10mm nuts under the lever]. Remove rear drums, knock down the adjuster wedges [that are meant to adjust automatically but never do] till the drum just fits over the shoes. Obviously while the drums are off check the shoes, cylinders, springs and clean out the dust ect. Refit drums, reset cables and try the pedal and handbrake lever. You'll find that the cables won't need to be tightened as much, the handbrake will be better, and best of all the pedal will be firmer. Don't overdo it and end up with binding rear brakes though.:thumbup:

Basically it's pretty rare for any automatic shoe adjusters to work, no matter which make or model!;)

I'll give that a try when i get my rear drums worked on.

I got the rear shoes, is it worth changing the wheel cylinders too?

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I Meant that you should check that the refill hole/plug can be opened so that you don't end up wi a box that's drained,but can't be refilled.

Sorry if I wasn't clear:thumbup:

I understood what you meant! ;)

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the brake trick works really well.

thats what i did when my mk1 failed its MOT.

we took the drums off, blew all the cr4p out. then with a big flat headed skrew driver in each side, to hold the pads in. i pushed the brakes, and my friend slowly let the pads out, till they fitted the drums properly.

worked really well, nearly killed me self on the test drive.

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Where do you find this refill hole?

It's the hole vacated by the speedo drive gear.

Follow the cable from the instrument panel that leads to the top of the transmission housing. Undo the retaining bolt. Slide out the metal retaining thing in the direction the bolt was. Lift out the speedo drive gear along with the cable making sure nothing drops in. The oil level is meant to be measured on the drive gear but I think it basically needs to make about 3/4 up the plastic teeth at the bottom.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

Now I'm new here, so please forgive me if I should have posted this on another question board.

Skoda felicia 1997 ® GLI 89k

5th gear started whining a couple of weeks ago, then 3rd, 5th jumps out of gear when at nearly 50mph. Have tried checking oil level as in manual by removing speedo cable and using the end as a dipstick.

This proved inconclusive, so decided to top up gear box to see if this resolved whining noise. At we used a funnel with bluetack to make a good seal and tried leaving funnel for 30 mins to see if it topped up gearbox, this didn't seem to work as level did not appear to have gone down. I then tried using a syringe to inject in. This didn't work either. So is either the gearbox is full up with oil and the whining is due to wear/damage on 5th and 3rd gears or could it be that the oil is just too viscous to run through a ridiculously small hole.:confused:

Any helpful suggestions gratefully received.

Happy New Year to all

Jen

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Apparently according to a gear oil FAQ on another section of this forum, despite the number differences, gear oil is similar viscosity to engine oil.

If the bottom of the speedo drive gear was wet with smelly oil you had some in there. As I understand it basically needs to be up a little way up the plastic drive at the bottom.

How big was the hole at the bottom of your funnel? As you've used it for oil you probably don't want to use it for cooking now, so you might have some look chopping a bit off the bottom to make it wider but still able to fit the hole. Can you see any gear oil when you look down the hole and shine a torch down it?

As for whether low gear oil would conclusively cause the problems you are experiencing, I can't say for certain due to lack of knowledge/experience - but worst possible thing is gearbox is on it's way out.

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thanks for that, but the hole is so small and I specifically bought a new small funnel for this function, I suspect that the box is on it's way out, but there has been a oil leak at some stage from the front of the engine (probably oil filter) that has "blown back" and coated parts of the engine and gearbox in oil, so was looking to verify that the leak was not coming from the gearbox via the transmission shaft seals for instance and rendering the gearbox low on oil.

One thing under investigation was that the speedo cable screw-on cap appeared to be missing a seal as stated in the Haynes manual, that said I have had this car since May 2004.

What I find difficult to understand is why 5th gear would start to whine (assuming it's starting to wear) and then literally within 2 weeks 3rd develops a whine as well.

But just wondered if there where any other ideas on offer or experience of a similar problem.

Cheers

Jen

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What I find difficult to understand is why 5th gear would start to whine (assuming it's starting to wear) and then literally within 2 weeks 3rd develops a whine as well

If it's whining and occasionally jumping out I'm afraid it's rather likely your gearbox has had it - broken bearing somewhere. Usually if one gear fails at least one other will because they share shafts inside (I'm not going to try to explain because it's ages since I had a box in bits in front of me and it's complicated - look for an exploded drawing on a web site somewhere!). I mean, the box has had to the extent you'll have to take it out: once it's out it's fixable if you can be bothered but a replacement is often a more practical answer.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think the hard engaging first is a usual thing. May be helped a little by oil change. Could it also be the gear linkage is worn? I.e. is the gear stick a little loose or does it rattle at all?

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its been hard engaging first at times today.

Mine is sometimes, it's not much to worry about on its own. May be a stretched clutch cable or something as simple as the mat in the footwell has slipped under the clutch pedal so you can't press it down the last quarter-inch.

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