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Fabia vRS timing belt change DIY


skudmissile

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Can any kind soul answer a question about the stretch bolts on the engine mount?

As I see it there are 4 bolts holding the body mount, 3 vertical ones holding the bracket to the engine mount, and another 3 holding the engine mount to the engine block (plus the one centre nut).

Which of these are stretch bolts? My guess is the mount to block and bracket to mount .. but another post says there are 7 in total

a) N 102 861 10 (1 of)

B) N 102 862 03 (3 of)

c) N 906 283 03 (3 of)

I'm confused..

Cheers

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  • 10 months later...

Just a quick question, When should the timming belt be changed on a Roomster 1.9 105hp tdi? Wifes car has done 42k and was registered March 2007. Is it due a change yet?

Cheers

James

Sorry I posted this in the wrong place and can't find where to delete this post. Please feel to delete this file.

Edited by jlo
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  • 1 month later...

Another big thanks for this guide :D ...helped give me the confidence to do mine today!

Got my parts from Rainworth Skoda in Mansfield, who also trade as number1forskoda on eBay. I have no connection with them except having bought parts from them twice now, both times good service and value for money!

When enquiring about the engine mount stretch bolts, they stated that it's only necessary on the Octavia...Fabia doesn't have them.

My local dealer quoted me £380 to change the cambelt and waterpump, so pleased to have done it for around £157 inc. a new auxillary belt and the locking tools!

Thanks again B)

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  • 2 weeks later...

The camshaft itself is locked with the locking pin and the crankshaft with another tool. All that is loosened is the sprocket on the camshaft not the camshaft itself that is locked in position.

The cambelt is put on loose and then the tensioner tightened to get the belt to the correct tension. There are a number of sprockets on the cambelt - crankshaft, idler, tensioner, camshaft and water pump. Everything can move except for the crankshaft, therefore when the tensioner is tightened the belt can tension up all the way around. The camshaft itself is locked with the pin it is only the sprocket that can move a bit and as the belt is tighten it does rotate anti-clockwise slightly. Once the belt is correctly tensioned the camshaft sprocket is again tighted to the camshaft.

Remember the camshaft itself with it's lobes has not moved in this process only the sprocket on the front of it has - hence timing has NOT been altered.

If you had the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket locked, then when the belt was tensioned only the left hand side of the belt would tension as there could be no pull applied by the tensioner on the right side of the belt run.

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  • 2 months later...

Pleased I found this, it shines light on all the little things that Haynes describe in words not photographs ! I'm hoping to replace my timimg belt very soon, 1.4 DOHC engine. Regarding the engine mounting bolts, I still need these. They are not shown on Jorily's web site so I put a query into them, but so far no reply. Any advice anyone please ? Also the kit I have only has the timing belt, not the secondary belt. Any thoughts on whether I should renew them both. I realise that I should do both just for access reasons, but the car has only done 23,000 miles. Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The 3 engine mount bolts that hold the side mount to the block are N 906 283 03, remember to put the bottom and left bolt in the holes on this plate before offering up to the engine as no room when in correct position. Have fun getting that bit of metal out and back - I did !!!!

The 3 bolts that bolt down the top mount to the bit above are N 102 862 05.

I also changed the nut to the rubber mount N 102 613 10, and the 4 hex bolts on the crank pulley N 103 036 07. What was interesting here is the original 4 crank pulley bolts were a star type drive which I actually undone with a normal hex bit, but the replacement ones were normal hex bolts to begin with.

I probably was a bit OTT, but they did not cost much and it is only once every 4 years.

I did renew both belts, I thought why put an old one back. Aux Belt = 038 903 137 AA.

My car had done 25,000 miles so similar to yours. The old cambelt showed slight cracking along the base of each tooth on the inside of the belt. Only visible when I bent the belt back on itself. The old water pump still looked brand new and yes I did replace it with a plastic oem part (045 121 011 HX) but as said the original plastic oem part was perfect, so I'm not worried about the next 4 years.

Remember mine is the 1.9TDI BSW Engine, so maybe different to yours.

Edited by aubrey
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Thank you for the advice. Sorry about the delay in replying; we've had a wedding in the family. Couldn't avoid that one !

Could anyone please confirm if the same or different bolts are used with other engine types ? It has not been easy to find a supplier, and they want to know the numbers. My Fabia has the petrol 16v DOHC engine. Car is off the road as the belt change is 2 years overdue, much of that time due to my involement in a road accident. I am now hoping to do the job before the winter to avoid having to use my Favorit on salted roads.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 10 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Put it all back together and it didn't start :( had to tweak the cam sprocket to get it started. Used VCDS lite to make sure it was bob on.

If doing this I do recommend having VCDS lite to ensure the timing is bob on. The free trial version is good enough along with a cheap interface of eBay.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did this over the weekend, and found the guide to be very useful. My biggest pain in the backside was getting the part of the engine mount that attaches to the engine out and back in. Also I found the new cambelt quite a tight fit to get on even with the tensioner slackened and the idler pulley not present, not what I have experienced with other (petrol) engines that I have done.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Also completed this at the weekend referencing this guide and another two in the links below

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BEW_timing_belt_procedure.pdf

And

http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/11309-changing-the-timing-belt-on-a-pd-diesel-engine/

One thing to note is locking the camshaft was difficult as the hole in the block was extrely tight even with the correct tool. I ended up using a worn 6mm drill that measured about 5.9mm to lock it as a 6mm bit or the tool just wouldn't go in without excessive force.

An engine support beam is a useful tool to have for doing this as it allows give a wide range to raise and lower the engine to access the bolts holding the engine mount support block to the block itself for torquing up.

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  • 1 month later...

Great guide. Always like to read up on the subject before tackling the job although I have done it a few times before. Like VRS-Badman above I cant understand / remember why you undid the three cam pulley bolts? I think there is a reason but just cant fathom what it is at the moment.

 

I always mark the old cam belt clearly with the exact position of the timimg marks on the cam pulley and the crank pulley. Once removed I very carefully transfer these marks to the new cam belt checking at least 3 or 4 times that I have marked it correctly with the right number of teeth between the marks. Replace the new cam belt back in the same marked positions and the timing cannot be wrong even if something has moved slightly. I know lots of people dont like this approach for some reason but I have been using it for many years.

 

Thanks again for taking so much trouble with the guide.

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Yes I knew there was a reason for loosening the 3 camshaft bolts. Explained very well by Aubrey above:-    Remember the camshaft itself with it's lobes has not moved in this process only the sprocket on the front of it has - hence timing has NOT been altered.

If you had the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket locked, then when the belt was tensioned only the left hand side of the belt would tension as there could be no pull applied by the tensioner on the right side of the belt run.   

 

Thanks

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  • 2 years later...
On 06/03/2008 at 17:01, skudmissile said:

Parts needed

Timing belt: 038109119P

Tensioner: 038109243M

Relay roller 038109244J

Water Pump, Loads to choose from, I used a QH metal impeller one from Andrew pages

2l of concentrated g12 coolant, I used 5l of pre-mixed g12 spec coolant from Halfords.

Aux drive belt, lost invoice for this but dealer should know part number.

 

Can anyone confirm these part numbers / provide up-to-date information?

 

Also P/Ns for the two sets of stretch bolts would be helpful.

Edited by fiftythreethirtynine
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  • 2 years later...
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Took a close look on my BLT 06 engine and the bolts for the crankshaft pulley are the VAG 12 point XZN type triple square things and being exposed are quite rusty - got some on the way to remove them but will replace with new ones -  N91048802 according to the local Skoda dealer.

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