-mike-

Hey all, Partners car is leaking brake fluid everywhere and I having gathered all my tools I went out to grab the locking wheel nut............ which is missing. After ripping her car to pieces I still can't find it, and am wondering if anyone here would know which code key I'd need to get the blasted bolt off! Have attached a picture in the hope that someone might recognise it... there are sellers on ebay that offer to match based on picture but I'd like to buy an OE one if possible. Thank you

They do indeed come with the kit, only he pulled the thread in the head fitting the stud. Then decided rather than getting the oversized stud that is available for such an issue, he'd fit a bolt. This bolt also was left at full length and the cambelt cover had a slit cut in it so that it slid over the bolt......... I've never seen a bodge quite like it! Haven't tested pressure yet, I don't have a gauge but I can see if I can borrow/beg/steal one I guess! Thanks for your help

I should add, this is where I got flow values from (tdi club) 2005 BEW PD lift pump operation and internals | TDIClub Forums PD_fuel_delivery_check.pdf (tdiclub.com)

Hey, The garage that did the head repair and fitted new cambelt etc was an independent. The torsion value is currently -2.9 which is where it was when the dealer did the belt six or so years ago. I haven't been tempted to adjust this yet, but have been advised a value slightly positive is best for best power. The lift pump was noted as weak when the main dealer replaced the tandem pump under warranty or as the tech put it ‘borderline’ but not replaceable under warranty as still deemed ok. The reason I’m now looking at the in tank pump is that after the independent doing the head work and associated parts, they never replaced the tandem pump gasket which resulted in a whole lot of oil in the fuel, filter and tank. The screen on the lift pump was pretty grotty. I realise the mix of independent and main dealer is confusing in my ramblings so I apologise, hopefully this will help: 1) main dealer replaced tandem pump and said lift pump borderline. 2) independent 1 did timing belt and stripped threads. Didn’t use the stud Vw supply to fix this problem and instead fitted some contraption of a bolt and bodged the repair. 18 months later bolt sheared at 70mph. Independent didn’t want to know. 3) independent 2 who did the head work. Didn’t replace tandem pump gasket when repairing car. Replaced when I had running issues and showed him fuel filter black. Job was quoted to be around the cost of replacement second hand engine fitted but ended up being double - had i known it would cost so much I would have opted for a replacement engine. The fact that I knew how the car had been driven and serviced for the last 60k miles made me opt to fix the current lump. I have no faith in the car but still love the stupid thing. thanks again for your time and reply

Hi all, Having some issues with the car lately after it had all rollers / rockers replaced and other bits and pieces done (first garage did shoddy repair on tensioner when I had the belt changed....(stud) and it failed.... you can guess the rest). The car doesn't seem as eager as it was even post head work, and I recall when it was in for some work at the dealer that the technician said at the time that the in tank fuel pump was borderline. Today I decided to take the in tank pump out, clean the gauze and show it some love (repair valvetrain garage didn't replace tandem pump gasket initially and well......... things got oily!). I thought I'd try a flow test for the lift pump and ran it for thirty seconds. I was able to get it to pump 1.3 litres in that 30 seconds, and whilst I can't find much else bar one site online, that site suggests the pump should return 3+ litres a minute. Does anyone know if this is correct? If so, it puts me at 2.6 litres for a minute run and presumably under specification? Any help much appreciated, thank you.

Dear all, Hopefully you won't mind this request for some advice - car is a 2.0 TDI with the BKD engine. Cambelt changed two years ago by (what was) a trusted garage. Inspection some time later under the bonnet made me realise it was a bit of a botch. The tensioner thread in the head stripped, so he had helicoiled the head (which I was aware of), but rather than use a typical stud, he elected to use a bolt which was too long........ so what does he do? Cut a slit in the cambelt cover to accommodate the bolt whilst putting the cover back on. Whilst driving my partner to work at the local hospital as she had laser eye surgery after her shift so couldn't drive (circa 70mph), I put my foot down to keep speed up a hill and there was nothing there.... no power nothing. Thinking it was limp mode and I needed to get off the dual carriageway I took the exit and upon coming to the roundabout and dipping the clutch the engine died. Having tried to restart it multiple times, eventually I gave up and called for recovery. Upon inspection at home, the bolt that he used has sheared off in the head which obviously means lost cambelt tension and after removing the cam cover, damage to what I believe are rockers / rollers. My question to you all is - Do I fix this? I've been advised by the local machine shop that the head is perfectly repairable and may need a few parts replacing. Car has just rolled over 100k and has been serviced well throughout its life. Second question, do I have any comeback with the garage that did the repair? I don't really want the confrontation, but because of his 'repair' I now either need to front up the cash for this or replace the car. Neither is preferable, and with the price of used cars still stupidly high, I think repair is the only option. Final question - I'm handy with spanners, have haynes (ha) manual, would you attempt this yourselves or get a garage to do it? Will try and attach some photos! Head rebuild would be done by engine centre, I don't have the tools or expertise to do that for sure! Thank you all

My partners 1.4 tsi had a similar noise even post chain change, swapping the valve follower tappet out got rid of this noise. No idea if it was a placebo fix but the noise never returned. Then the car got rear ended. 😐

Is that breather pushed home until it clicks into place on the inlet tract pipe thing? Looks like it's sitting a little ways off to me?

I wanted to update this topic to let you know the fault was rectified finally by replacing the cam follower for the fuel pump for the noise, and the Lambda sensor had decided to quit on us - which fixed the lumpy idle. Someone drove into the side of her last week, after we'd invested far too much money into the car and it has since been written off.

We had the 2010/11 1.4 TSI with the CAXA engine. I think we were unlucky with ours but it needed timing chain doing in her ownership, coil packs, the cam follower for the high pressure fuel pump and other bits and pieces. Invested a fortune in that car to finally get it running right........... then it got written off!

Can I be cheeky and jump in here to ask the best way to diagnose the thermostat? I have access to vcds this weekend and have read something regarding the radiator output temperature and the engine temperature. Am I right in thinking that if the radiator outlet and engine temperature rise together from low temperatures that the thermostat is stuck open? The car gets up to 90 no problem (on drive home from travelling 200 miles to bring it home), but temperature will drop at light load to the point that the fake temp gauge needle actually drops so I assume quite a temp difference. When on the throttle it's fine and keeps temp but will drop off 90 at low load. Apologies for the thread hijack if this isn't allowed but I figured that one place is better than multiple topics! Car is a 2010 Octavia TDI 140 (CR)

Figured I'd update this! Car was still misfiring until I disconnected the Lambda sensor and idle went completely smooth - so I'm suspecting the lambda sensor is not healthy. The bigger irritation is the ticking / tapping on throttle / accelerating. It stops when you're slowing down with no accelerator applied - cannot for the life of me work out what the noise is though! 😞

If the old one was black I’d take a look at the tandem pump. Mine was black due to oil contamination.

I had exactly this problem on my Jetta with the bkd engine, thankfully whilst I was still paying for the extended warranty. I believe it was fuel starvation from the tandem pump which was replaced. When I get home I’ll try and find the invoice and reply. It caused a nasty back and forth sensation which sounds like your whiplash explanation to me. Out of interest when was the fuel filter last changed, and if you did it yourself, was it black?

The noise has taken a few thousand miles to appear, car still pulls really well with no hesitation through the rev range but it's noisy and a tad lumpy at idle. The noise goes away when you're off the throttle and the injectors are no longer firing (down hill for example). I'm quite comfortable with the bkd diesel lump (in my car) but this caxa thing is a curse so far! Thanks so much for your reply