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Sissipaska

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Deltametrin
  • Location
    Sweden

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  • Model
    Fabia Scout 1.2 TSI 105
  • Year
    2011

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  1. I'll answer with the solution myself. It was the ignition coil that was faulty. Probably some internal part that automatically shut off due to heat because the car would always start after a couple of minutes of cool down. No fault codes or DTC stored in VCDS. The car had felt a bit sluggish for a while and the fuel economy was much worse than it is now.
  2. Car: 2011 Fabia Scout 1.2 TSI 105. ~240,000 km as of today. Always serviced at least annually during its life and not been on Variable Service since a few years back. The problem: car dies suddenly sometimes when driving. It just stops running without any jerking or hesitation and comes coasting to a stop. Then after maybe 5 min the car starts like nothing again. Sometimes it doesn't start when parked warm but then does it after some minutes of waiting. How the car drives: It idles good, albeit somewhat lumpy. Fuel economy unchanged. OBD-reading shows nothing out of the ordinary when driving. Fault codes in VCDS: none. Checked fuel pressure during operation which seem to be OK. Parts I've changed: In-tank fuel pump, fuel filter, fresh fuel, battery. The new fuel pump relay will arrive next week. Parts I've checked: voltage during operation (>13.9V constant) cleaned all sensors, checked all the wiring, checked the spark plugs, checked the HT leads, banged with a hammer on various parts caveman-style. The car was bought in 2019. The timing chain was changed before the previous owner bought it in 2014. I don't believe that and the chain makes a bit of a rattling noise in the first 2 seconds sometimes when starting so this will be changed in the near future for piece of mind. I'm leaning towards three parts: the ignition coil (since I'm able to replicate the error by pulling the 4-pin connector to it during operation without no fault codes), the HPFP on top of the valve cover or the ECU. Anyone who can help me with some suggestions or experience?
  3. Don't be afraid to give the engine a proper wash. I've always used a pressure washer with distance and carefulness and then some citric degreaser that doesn't ruin plastic or rubber and agitated with a wheel brush. Just put a plastic bag over the alternator, mass airflow sensor, battery tray fuse box and you should be good to go. If you remove the main engine cover then be careful with too much water over the coilpacks. No issues whatsoever and it helps with troubleshooting since you spot an oil leak or a split hose very quick.
  4. Yeah but I've opened some 1.8T cars which looked much worse than this so it was more a surprise for me. But direct injection engines can look really bad. The 1.6THP Prince engine that needs to be decoked with crushed walnut shells. Fun stuff!
  5. So I've been looking for some kind of boost and vacuum leak for a while now. The symptoms have been erratic idle and vac pressure and loss of boost pressure during WOT runs. The car would build up boost, dump it, build again only to dump it. Almost like a slow machine gun. I ran some logging in VCDS on N75 duty cycle, MAF readings and requested vs actual boost (MAP sensor) and all seemed somewhat OK apart from the MAP sensor readings but this could've be down to a boost leak as well. I've changed all the hoses before in the Creations motorsport kit (not really recommended, buy better kits, but it's still better than the original rubber hose). The other week I cleaned my SMIC (never been done before) and also changed all the intercooler pipes. This lowered the intake temps by over 5-6 degrees which is really nice so clean your IC's if you haven't. My had a cup full of oil that had collected over the years. The MAP sensor had gotten a good amount of oil over the years so it looked a bit wet. I decided to change it. I ran the car with the N75 to wastegate actuator pipe clamped and the car ran good and could build boost (WARNING! this has the potential to cause a catastrophic engine failure - be very careful) so I ruled out the wastegate. The N75 duty cycle was normal so I ruled out that one for the time being. I also found a hairline split in the pipe so I replaced it. I deleted the N112/N249 which made the recirc-valve respond much quicker. Still, the issue was there and I had to find something else. Then it occurred to me that there was gunk on the intake manifold where the injectors sit. I started looking in to this and found that some people have experienced boost leak through the plastic injector cups so I decided to change the whole lot. Guide follows below (Note! this is how I did it, there might be easier ways to do it and I'm not liable for any damage you do to your cars). 1.8T AUQ injector cups, injector O-rings and intake manifold gasket replacement: Part numbers: Intake manifold gasket 058129717D (qty 1 x £5) Injector cups 06B133555H (qty 4 x £4) Injector O-rings 035906149A (qty 8 x £0,8) Throttle body gasket 028129748 (qty 1 - might not be needed) It might be worth changing these parts at the same time when the manifold is off: Engine knock sensor: 030905377C Crankcase breather plastic elbow: 06A103213F Crankcase breather pipes underneath the intake manifold (Look here) Tools needed: Allen key 5mm, 6mm Allen key 20mm for the injector cups (or use 17mm wheel bolt with lug nut cover or something else) Socket wrench 7mm, 10mm (preferably 1/4" drive for ease of operation) and long extension. Torque wrench (recommended). T25 torx bit. Needle nose pliers. PH head and slotted screwdrivers. Tightening torque: Manifold to cylinder head bolts and nuts: 10Nm Fuel rail to manifold bolts: 10Nm Start by removing fuse 28 inside the car (fuel pump 15A) and let the car idle until it dies. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Remove all engine covers and the bracket holding the N112/N249 valves under the intake manifold (I've deleted this and the SAI and have only the bracket left). Use compressed air and remove as much loose dirt as possible from where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head since it might fall into the exposed intake chambers otherwise. Follow steps below if you like to move the whole cable holder on top of the fuel rail to the side - otherwise jump down to "continue here" Remove the right hand side headlamp (UK drivers side/EU passenger side) and disconnect the MAP sensor cable. Disconnect the two connectors on the throttle body (temp sensor and fly-by-wire connector). Disconnect the camshaft position sensor cable (YELLOW arrow in picture below) Disconnect the knock sensor cable under the intake manifold (RED arrow in picture below) Disconnect the brake booster pipes from the intake manifold in the marked positions (BLUE arrows in pic below). Continue here Remove the intercooler-to-TB boostpipe and remove all 4 Allen bolts holding the throttle body to the intake manifold. Put the TB to the left side out of the way. Disconnect the 4 fuel injector connectors by pressing on the silver clips (RED arrow in pic below) Unclip the cable holder on the fuel rail and move the whole cable unit out of the way. Remove the two 5mm Allen bolts holding the fuel rail and hard lines to the intake manifold. Remove the two rubber fuel lines going to the fuel rail hard pipes. There will be some left over fuel coming out (RED arrow in pic below). Lift the fuel rail with the injectors out of the injector cups (some mild force might be needed. lift them two by two straight up). Some fuel will come out. Now you're left with this. Be careful of debris and use a vaacum hose to suck up all as much as possible. Remove the eight 5mm Allen bolts and two 10mm nuts that hold the intake manifold to the cylinder head in a star pattern starting from the outside. Remove the 6mm Allen bolt holding the intake manifold bracket (to the left of the oil dipstick) Remove all 4 vacuum pipes under the manifold (fuel pressure regulator, recirc valve, crankcase breather pipes). Lift the intake manifold off the car. Now you're left with this: Remove the gasket and put something to cover the intake chambers. I used a vacuum hose to suck all small particles that fell into the chamber. I cleaned all surfaces and replaced the gasket. Here you can see the obvious leak from the injector cups on to the intake manifold: Remove the old injector cups with 20mm Allen key. I used a 19mm bar but It's easier to just hit them down with a hammer and pry of the threaded part that's left since you're going to discard them anyway. Two of the injector cups came out easy, two broke and were cracked before and probably leaking like ****: Clean the intake manifold. Now is a good time to polish it or paint it, like I did. My manifold painted and ready for the new injector cups: To install the new cups I used a 17mm wheel bolt and put on a plastic wheel stud cover which was perfect fit and wouldn't break the plastic since it was plastic against plastic. Tighten the cups so that they sit flush to the seats on the manifold. Do not over-tighten since it's plastic to metal and use some plastic to metal anti-seize. Clean the intake chambers before refitting the intake manifold. I was pleasantly surprised over the cleanliness of my intake valves considering my car has done 240,000 km. Use 98 RON fuel, that's my top tip. Always have and always will. This is the result IMO. Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail and replace the O-rings (two per injector). Remove the brass clips (notice the direction) and just pull them out. If you have the oppertunity then leave them to someone who can clean them in an injector cleaning stand and test the fuel pressure and so on. Installing is the opposite of removal. Take your time, label everything if you're not sure and be thorough. Results: I don't know if the MAP sensor was the culprit but firstly I now have stable intake manifold vacuum at 25 in/Hg at idle, whereas it previously jumped between 22-23 in/Hg and secondly I have no hesitation or loss of boost during WOT anymore. If you're looking for a vacuum and/or boost leak then change the bits listed above since the cost is low and it's easy to do. The plastic injector cups were almost disintegrating and it would not be fun times if it falls in to the intake chamber. Hopefully somebody is helped out by this guide. Note that I've changed most vacuum hoses and simplified the system a lot, mainly following the guides posted on pimpmyskoda.
  6. You already probably know this but still worth mentioning: put a light coating of oil on the rubber gasket and only hand tighten the filter. I'm amazed that some people think the filter will somehow break loose and you need 400Nm of torque on that ****** (not bashing on you Passeyfier). Same with wheel bolts. **** most workshops who rattle them down without correct torque.
  7. Funny I saw the other sensor yesterday when I had the intake manifold off the car. Thought it was something else and haven't seen there being mentioned that there is two. It was rusty so I didn't even dare to touch it.
  8. N249/N112 removal. I had previously removed the SAI system but after having some issues with boost lately during WOT I decided to remove the whole lot in hopes of curing the possible boost leak. The guides posted have confused me a bit so I thought it was harder than it was (not faulting the guides) but really, it's such an easy mod to do and I feel the car is much better during acceleration now and feels "quicker". I don't run a catch can so I just unplugged everything under the intake manifold, bought some 4mm vacuum hose and ran it straight from the top of the recirculation valve to the output underneath the intake manifold. I had some ready made resistors from the SAI delete so I put them in the now empty connectors. I will remove the hardlines probably and buy a catch can if I can't get the car sold quick enough. I still have some issues with hesitation during WOT and I believe my MAP sensor to be faulty. But when I was to remove it the ****ing bolts snapped even though I soaked them with penetrating oil and being very cautious (thanks Skoda for choosing the worst quality screws) so as for now it's just hold in place with some steel wire. If anyone has snapped the MAP sensor bolts and fixed it more easily than buying a new SMIC I would be happy to know. Monday car is booked for a timing belt change and after that it will be put up for sale. I have a genuine carbon fiber/Kevlar WRC spoiler which will be sold separately.
  9. Yeah the new knock sensor made a big difference in how smooth the car feels under acceleration to before. The 120A alternator is just a bit quicker in charging the battery and might be beneficial if you run big audio systems or other things that draw much electricity in your car. Otherwise I don't know if it makes such a huge difference. I just wanted it because it was the same price as the original 90A version and is more than enough for the car.
  10. Painted valve cover black and fitted new valve cover gaskets. Link to album of todays work. Before: After: Recent jobs done to car: New rear left and right brake hardlines due to one of them snapping off completely. New rear left side caliper (bought from eBay, came painted green and fitted with the handbrake return spring for £78. Also fitted new rear brake discs and pads and performed a complete brake fluid flush. New rear left wheel bearing. New Bosch knock sensor ( with copper core. Made a big difference to how the car drives). New Intercooler to throttle body silicone pipe. New 120A Hella alternator (can confirm it's a straight swap and no need to change the the 110A metal fuse in the engine bay fuse box like some people tell you). New Continental serpentine belt. New battery (original VARTA was on the car when I bought it back in 2012 and I believe the previous owner changed it sometime around 2010, so that's some quality). New complete drivers side window regulator (Hans Preis Topran - awesome quality for £25. The breakers here in Sweden want around £100+ for a used part. ****ers...) Defrosting the important bits first: I'm looking to sell the car soon but I need to fix the paint on the front fenders and lower sills before since they take away from what's otherwise a really well kept car with almost all parts changed (yeah...). If someone from Sweden is interested then hit me up here on the forum.
  11. So this week I have changed the MAF, removed SAI, fitted a new turbo back exhaust with a 200 cell cat and changed a few split vacuum and breather pipes. Knock on wood, it seems to have cured my problems. VCDS reported a faulty MAF so that was probably the main problem but also the crankcase breather pipe going to the t-connector under the intake manifold was completely split open. New silicone hoses from Creations Motorsport fixed that. So far so good...
  12. Well the EVO I kit looks wrong. But the EVO II amd III kits looks spot on. The best bet would probably be to go to Czech and get it done there. I think they know their stuff and it probably won't cost more than half a leg. I've personally had it up to here with local garages with technicians who probably can't put on their pants in the morning. Saw a Fabia WRC last weekend which got me back in to the hunt for some WRC looks.
  13. Well I've been looking for a Octavia WRC EVO 3 kit for a while and you can get them from some dark places i Czech. Since I've got a WRC rear wing I need something to balance that. But maybe I'll just roll my arches or buy some generic wide arches.
  14. SAI system removal. Better sooner than later, the pump came apart due to the rivets being completely perished. Rob was right, the SAI combi valve was a nightmare to remove. I ran out of patience with the screwdriver. Creations Motorsport blanking plate fitted and block and valve cover cleaned. Next up, fitting turbo-back exhaust.
  15. Got my VCDS software and cable yesterday. Today I scanned the car. - Multiple intermittent/low voltage B+ issues due to bad B+ cable. That one is already sorted so those were old fault codes. - Air flow mass meter faulty. New one arrived yesterday and will be fitted soon. - SAI circuit open fault. Will do the SAI, N249/N211 delete soon. It really comes in handy to have a father who works with PCB cad design and assembly so I get "good" (read free) prices on all electrical components. i can't test drive the car because I have a few VAC/breather pipes wich need to be sorted. Other than that nothing except for an electric circuit failure for the headlight range control motors (now I know why I can only see about 10 m ahead of the car) and internal code module memory errors for ABS and headlights.
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