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managuense

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    West Yorkshire

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    2010 Octavia VRS DSG, Race Blue, Shark Remap.

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  1. Same thing has just happened to me, though mine was a 2010 VRS DSG. Wrote it off with what looked like minimal damage, although they said it could cost up to £7500 to repair. I bought the car on here for £8500 in 2013, and I got £6400 from the insurers, which really surprised me as I was expecting some miserly offer around £3 - £4000. I guess £2000 depreciation over 9 years isn't too bad Shame I had to find another £17k to buy the replacement 😞
  2. Many thanks for your reply. Original is definitely 'A'. After much more googling I have found a different part on the Febi site and it looks like that is the one I should have ordere. I want to swap the part anyway so I'm just about to order a genuine part from Coverdale. I'm not taking any chances this time, so I'm send reg, vin, and date of registration Lesson learnt and £40 down the drain !! Cheers.
  3. Hi folks, its been a while. I have trawled the archives but not found a definitive answer to my query. I'm not much of a home mechanic nowadays, - prefer to leave it to the experts, however, the car has cost an arm and a leg recently so thought I would fit a new oil separator myself - straightforward job The original part was still in place which is stamped 06H 103 495 A. I realize that there are several revisions of the part, and the one I ordered was a Febi Bilstein item, which on the box says it is equivalent to 06H 103 495 AH. The part was being replaced purely as a preventative measure on advice. The car was running ok. I replaced the part which was quite simple, and started the car. I now have an uneven idle and when I blip the throttle, the rev drop to idle isn't instant, - it seems to take a second or two holding just over 1000rpm, before it drops to idle around 800/850rpm. Did around 150 miles yesterday and had no problem with performance. I've just had a couple of hours trawling for info about revisions but have confused myself even more. I don't know whether the part fitted is wrong or faulty or whether replacing it has shown another fault. The info I can find seems to point to it being the correct part. All advice gratefully received.
  4. If you get further random activations then try disabling the interior sensor with the button on the drivers door pillar. If this stops the problem then it could be the internal sensor. Had to replace mine recently - easy diy job at around £115. I work with an VAG trained Tech who tells me its a really common problem.
  5. Just a quick update. Visited the local Skoda dealer and had a chat with someone from the bodyshop. Was given a quote of £550 to do the full work, which is a lot for a small dent and a wheelarch liner, but was about what I expected. I've been reasonable with the PDR guy and told him I would split the repair 50/50, seeing as I did have a dent before he started! Quite surprisingly he has agreed to this and says he will send a cheque once the repair is complete. Doing it this way, I get a warranty on the repair and keep my anti-corrosion warranty. If he keeps to his word then I will be happy, and it saves all the hassle of trading standards and small claims. Fingers crossed
  6. I have had a call tonight from the repairer after the MD of the company has applied pressure. He has offered to have the hole siliconed and undersealed and will replace the damaged wheelarch liner. I have told him that I want to speak to Skoda before I agree to any work being carried out, in order to find out how it will impact on my warranty. Even though the outside of the damage is significantly worse than before he got his hands on it, he says it is much better. My garage, my friends and family and myself all disagree!! My own garage (very good independent), do not carry out body repairs but have many years experience and are obviously aware of repair techniques. They told me that the amount of work needed to repair the dent, - (filler), and the paint work - full rear quarter respray and blend in to rear bumper and o/s rear door was probably overkill and that they wouldn't have it done if they owned the car. All they would do would be to silicon the hole and replace the liner. I will take advice from Skoda and then make my decision. I really enjoyed my car - small dent and all - but now it really p****s me off every time I look at the rear wheel arch.
  7. Not sure if this is the best section for this topic but here goes. At this point I'm not going to name names or point fingers, just need some general advice for now. A few weeks ago I had a 'reputable' PDR company out to look at a small dent on my rear wheel arch, (2010 Octavia VRS). The guy reckoned he could do the work and I left him to it. After about 10 mins he knocked on the door and said he couldn't do the repair, there would be no charge and off he shot. Investigation of his attempted repair showed that the slight smooth dent now also had pointed raised metal, the wheel arch liner had a hole cut in it, and above that hole had been chiseled a jagged hole through the metal inner skin. He had made this to access the dent in the outer skin. This has left the wheel arch double skin open to water ingress. I have had a temporary repair carried out to plug the hole for the short term but I need a permanent fix. I have complained to the company and I am awaiting a reply. I am hoping for an amicable solution. If not I will pursue the matter in other ways. My main worry is my corrosion warranty. Obviously I have the remainder of the 10 years and need to know where I would stand with Skoda. Would I need to take it to them for the repair? Would the warranty be invalidated if I took it elsewhere? Any advice welcome.
  8. It's been a while, - I assume the ECU cured your problem?
  9. Bought Hofmiester's 2010 Octavia VRS back in April. He had problems with the MFSW while under warranty a few months earlier, and had the clock spring replaced which seemed to cure his problem. Twice over the last couple of weeks the up shift flappy paddle has packed in. No amount of waggling or moving will stir it in to action. On each occasion it has returned to normal the following day. I can shift down with the other flappy, and I can shift up and down with the gear stick. All other MFSW controls seem to be fine. Is it likely to be the actual switch - do they fail? Or is it more likely to be the clock spring again? If it's the latter, is the warranty on a warranty repair transferable to a new owner? Bare in mind I live nowhere near the original dealer :( cheers Dave
  10. Yeah I know mate, thought about that as I filled in the ad. Been up for sale on SXOC for a while with no interest (probably because its an auto and most of the regulars prefer manuals) and possibly because of the short MOT. I'm just trying not to spend any more on it as it's costing me £75 a month insurance and I'm not really driving it :( ! MOT isn't a problem - it sails through every year, I will probably take your advice cheers
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