Paul52

Perhaps you just take out the spare wheel and fill the space with bits and pieces as necessary and will fit plus odds and ends in the polystyrene blocks. If needed you could put a simple support under the floor. You'd get a decent amount of extra space without any work and then when/if you decided to put the spare wheel back it would just go straight in. I'm all for a simple life.....

Thank you both (and Carlodiesel that PM'd me). I did both the above and still had the problem although fortunately if I didn't rely on the autoclosing function once up the window stayed shut, so no security/weather concerns, but kept on trying and suddenly for no reason it was back to working properly again. As the slogan goes - Skoda, Simply Clever ... and Occasionally Frustrating. So now its just a case of fingers crossed and see if it happens again.

I'm having the regularly experienced problem of the driver's window closing but then going back down to the half way position. This happens when I use the "auto" function on the switch but if I hold the switch up until the window is closed it stays closed. I've tried the usual remedy (several times over a couple of days) of turning the ignition on (but not starting the engine), lowering the window fully and then raising it whilst pushing the top edge out, then holding the switch in the up position for 10 seconds or so when there should be a click as the switch resets. But I'm not getting the click and the problem remains. Anyone any ideas? The car had a service about 10 days ago and a new battery but I can't honestly say the problem started then (in fact with the hot weather almost certainly I'd have noticed before now). For the moment it's just a bit of a nuisance so I'm in no rush to get a professional involved to start taking things to pieces and it's possible if it's a electronic glitch it will sort itself at some point. But someone may have had the same issue and found a solution.

My Yeti is serviced by a local independent and they don't seem to have a problem with having all the right kit for all the basic stuff. (They probably don't have the jigs to straighten a crash repair but I'm hoping I'll never need to find out). It's hard to believe that a main dealership can't do the necessary work on something within the same group. Perhaps you should put a polite and factual review on Trustpilot and see if they respond.

It's three years younger than my Yeti and got 15,000 less miles on the clock yet seems to carrying a lot of problems - like it's lost its nearside mirror? I may be a natural worrier but it seems like it might have had a hard life in the past and for me that would be "keep looking".

This is a photo of the Bolero fitted to my 2013 Elegance. Yours is rather different. I can't tell you whether there was a revamp of the unit between 2010 and 2013 although it's possible. This is the unit that takes 6 CDs. I think, but I can't be sure, there was an alternative unit fitted to some of the more basic models that was a single CD player. Hopefully someone with a 2009/2010 Yeti will see you post and put up a picture of their unit for you.

In case it helps, a few years back I had an irritating rattle that I struggled to pin down - sometimes it seemed to be coming from somewhere, other times from somewhere else. It didn't help that my wife and I could hear the noise at the same time but think it was from different parts of the car! Purely by accident I found it was a loose "stud" - one of the little stalks that the cord that raises the tailgate shelf when you lift the tailgate attaches to. I tightened it up and the noise was gone. I have a Yeti but if the Superb has a similar arrangement worth just checking the tightness of these little posts.

I've got a Yeti and before I ordered it back in 2013 I took the advice of the most knowledgeable Yeti owners and got Skoda UK to agree 16" wheels rather than the standard 17" wheels. Thirteen years on they have withstood British roads and potholes well, I find them comfortable to drive on and when I've had to buy new tyres I'm happy saving around £40 a tyre compared with the 17" option. I'm on my second set of Michelin Cross Climate tyres and they seem to suit the car well. (For what it is worth, I've also found the MCCs pretty quiet in terms of road noise).

Just a thought but rather than start pulling trims off, depending on how old the car is and how fussy you are, maybe a little clear silicon sealant to hold the clip to the trim? If it works, great. If it doesn't then it's not a problem to slice through it and go down the trim removal route. (I've not had this problem but the car and I have reached an age where we look for simple answers!).

I second Carlo. My Yeti is now 13 years old and I've been following this forum all those years. In that time there have been reports of strange things happening, for example random warning lights coming on for no apparent cause, and in some cases replacing the car battery resolved the problem. I did experience this myself when the car was around six or seven years old. The battery wasn't giving me any problems but replacing it seemed an easy option (as it would rule out a dodgy battery; it was something that was likely to need replacing soon anyway and in the cost of running a car it's not a lot of money). I was lucky and had no more issues. Would it be worth putting a charger on the battery until you get a full charge reading and see if you still have the fault?

Thanks guys. Comforting to know that in most cases it will just look after itself. But in the worst case it's not a big problem to pull out the radio and get the serial number.

This seems to be about my level. There is one button. You push it. Then you leave everything alone and go and have a cup of tea or several. I can beat your wife (I probably could have put that better) as mine has been in a senior management role for 52 years, all of them blissfully happy , or so it says on the directive I've just been passed.... Co-incidentally just before I read you post I opened a letter from my garage (how old school is that?) reminding me of my MOT and I'm about due for a service. Thank you for the advice. I'll be back to the forum with my next crisis shortly.

After my recent battery problems I read up on how to change a battery without losing power to the radio but things can go wrong so I was wondering what my code was. I couldn't find anything in the paperwork from the dealer who sold me the car new but is no longer in business. Googling didn't give anything other than there "might be a sticker in the glove box (there isn't) or to remove the radio to get the serial number and then use this to get the code from a dealer or one of the sites on eBay, provided you can find a reliable one. Has anyone found a way to extract the code from a working radio without removing it? I know it's only removing the trim and four bolts but come on Skoda, that's not Simply Clever it's just irritating. I did find this on a thread from 2019 which I'm reproducing (acknowledgements to pikpilot) as it may be helpful to someone in the future. "If the radio remembers it was switched on last time it was used, when you put the battery back on it will ask for the code. If you then switch the radio off and then the ignition off then ignition on then radio on it will start up without asking for a code. Waiting for one hour causes the radio to go off again so next time you apply power via the ignition it will go through the process of the code checking handshake with the display system correctly and the radio will work when it switched on". The thread is https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426867-bolero-radio-code/

You're good with "Paul you're over thinking it". You've never met me and yet diagnosed my tendency to jump to the worst case scenario and work backwards 🙂. You also get a thumbs up from my wife, who has never believed in loyalty. I've bought the Ring battery charger and it's on the car now doing its thing (or so I assume - the instructions are in those pictograms that are universally incomprehensible). Since the weekend (and I know it's only Wednesday today) the car has been starting as normal and it's had two decent runs of 40 miles or so the last two days to the vet - for those who think £100 for a battery is a lot of money, my advice is don't get a Cocker Spaniel no matter how cute they look. So I'm going to do my usual thing of crossing fingers, stick my head in the sand and hope it was "just one of those things". It is due to go in for MOT and service in the next few weeks so if nothing else goes wrong between now and then I'll get them to test the battery and charging whilst it is with them - they're a local firm that I've been going to for 10 years or so and I can trust them to be honest.

I'm not sure if my Yeti has the same engine as yours or if it could be related but several years ago I had a constant smell of oil in the car, really noticeable when driving. A local garage had a look at it for me but couldn't find anything but didn't charge me. For which I'm thankful. I'm not really mechanically minded but decided nothing to lose by having a bit of a poke around (just fingers, no tools so whilst I might have electrocuted myself hopefully I'd not damage the car). Doing this I found a loose pipe, maybe 8mm diameter which should have connected to one arm of a tee joint but it had broken. Stiffness in the three pipes meant it wasn't obvious to the eye there was a break. A quick search on eBay and I found the little three arm connector for a couple of pounds, carefully removed the broken piece of pipe from the tube (I didn't want it to disappear into the engine through my clumsiness), connected the three hoses and the problem was solved! Once I'd found the break it was five minutes work even for the technically challenged. (Or four hours labour plus parts at a main dealer; me? cynical? how dare you!). I didn't have any noticeable oil leak, or maybe I just didn't notice, but yours might be a similar situation. Worth having a good prod around and see if anything moves more than you think it should?