Old Webbo

Just an update on this, back to the dealers today. Refrigerant was low so after a check for leaks it was re-gassed and now OK (blowing at 4-5 degrees C). Suspect it was insufficiently charged when last re-gassed as it stopped working more or less straight after this. Dealer said gas was only a little low but for the compressor to stop working entirely I think it was significantly low. Hope it hasn't been damaged in the process as that will be another battle on my hands.

Thanks Wino. I don't have access to VCDS so unfortunately I'm in the hands of the garage, its booked in next week. I suspect they under filled when the air con service was done, I just hope the compressor hasn't been damaged in the process of running low (although it hasn't engaged as such with no attempt at cooling). Will post an update.

Still struggling with this - have now had sufficiently warm days just recently to prove the air con does absolutely nothing, the compressor does not seem to be active. Does anyone know if the Climatronic panel has a test mode and also the location of the low pressure switch (assuming there is one). There does seem to a switch of sorts on the high pressure side (on the narrower of the two pipes).

Took some measurements today, outside temperature was about 8 degrees (as indicated on MFD thermometer), no sunlight (it was dark). With Climatronic set on 'LO' the vent temperature measured about 10 degrees ie no cooling effect whatsoever. It was still cooling the cabin effectively so I'm not sure if it is meant to behave this way to save power, when the outside temperature is sufficiently cool. Really need a warm sunny day but might have to wait a while for one of those. For those of you with the Climatronic system would really appreciate if one of you could conduct a similar test to see if additional cooling is applied when the outside air is already fairly cool but above the low temperature cut off point for the air con to work at all. I am booked in at the garage later this week but don't want to look a complete idiot, well no more than I have to.

Thanks Wino, very useful. Checked mine again today, outside temperature around 10 degrees C. Putting the system on maximum chilling (temperature dial to 'LO') there is no discernible temperature difference with AC on or not. I don't know if the Climatronic system behaves differently to the Climatic. As I don't have a temperature calibrated hand I bought a temperature probe device at Maplin today which should give a better indication of what is going on. Looks like a return to the garage is called for unfortunately.

I had the service done because the air con had not been re-gassed for about four years and was not as cool as it used to be during the last summer. There was also an offer to have air con service and brake fluid replacement done at a reduced price. Not so sure now that it was a good idea. I'm fairly convinced things aren't quite as they should be but want to be sure of my ground before taking it back to the garage. Just need a good way of testing it in cool weather.

Just had my annual service which included an aircon service, problem now is that I'm not convinced the air is being chilled any more and is just blowing in air at outside temperature. It was around 12 degrees C yesterday so with the Climatronic on 'LO' setting I would have expected to notice a difference. Took it out again today but with outside temperature around 8 degrees C it wasn't possible to discern any cooling. I intend to do some actual temperature measurements to see what the differential is, if any. Does anyone know what is the typical minimum temperature the aircon should be able to achieve. It would be a lot easier on a warm summer day to determine if the aircon was functioning but I can't wait that long if a need to take it back to the garage for a free fix. Thanks all

Can't help with the oil consumption issue but you may find the rattle at idle is from the petrol pipe (and air con pipe, I think) where it disappears down the hole on the left hand side next to the bulkhead. Mine did the same and a lump of hard foam rubber stuffed down the hole did the trick.

I have just bought a dashcam and hard wiring kit for my car and intend to connect it to the fuse box on the driver's side using a 'piggyback' connector. However I am not confident about removing panels, especially the one on the A-pillar, to run in the cable. Can anyone advise on the best way to do this. Much appreciated.

Whoops, meant to start a new topic. Have copied the question under a new heading so please ignore this one.

I have bought a dashcam and hard wiring kit for my car and intend to connect it to the fuse box on the driver's side using a 'piggyback' connector. However I am not confident about removing panels, especially the one on the A-pillar, to run in the cable. Can anyone advise on the best way to do this. Much appreciated.

Hello all, can anyone advise which LED lamps can be used as a direct replacement for my DRL's, without triggering the lamp fail indicator. The current lamps are standard 21W ones, fitted within the fog light enclosure. I'm not fussed about colour temperature and the like, its just that being on continuously the standard incandescent lamps don't last too long.

Does anyone know roughly how many 1.2 TSI's have actually had chain problems - from what I have read it seems to occur around the 30 thousand mile mark for those affected. If the problem will definitely occur then I'll get mine replaced now before problems start. On the other hand if it is a relatively small number affected I will probably wait to see what happens. The problem searching the internet for this information is that other issues, such as tappet noise on start up, HP fuel pump tapping and turbo waste gate rattle are sometimes reported as chain noise.

Do you have a gear indication on the dashboard MFD - that would at least prove you were getting a signal from the gearbox as to the engaged gear, specifically reverse to enable the parking sensors.

Doesn't the error code suggest it is the seat belt pre-tensioner rather than the side airbag - could be wrong but aren't they on separate circuits as they operate independently.