Reyes O+

Aqui les cuento una anecdota que tuve recientemente con mi transmision Skoda Felicia 1.3 de carburador. Pues la transmision se me daño en un viaje que hice de algunos 434 kilometros recorridos, gracias a dios pude traer el vehiculo hasta la casa, aun faltandome la mitad del recorrido, por eso digo que me gusta la dureza y fiabilidad de este vehiculo. Luego de desmontar la transmision, descubri que el problema fue que se salio uno de los engranajes satelites del diferencial, por lo que abrio tremendo orificio en la transmision por donde se salio toda la grasa, y terminado de dañar la base donde se sujeta el el varillaje de la palanca de cambio. Mas abajo pondre fotos de como quedo la transmision averiada. Naturalmente cambie la transmision pero al parecer no me percate de que la transmision usada que habia comprado pertenecia a un motor 1.6mpi del año 96, pues tenia los cambios de marcha mas largos en cuanto a la relacion final, en pocas palabras con mi transmision 1.3 en 5ta marcha a 100 km/h la aceleracion del motor era 2.800rpm, pero con la transmision 1.6 a la misma velocidad, la aceleracion del motor era solo de 2,000 rpm. Pero la cosa no termina aqui, pues tambien tenia otro problema y es que la 1ra y 2da marchas estaban muy duras para aplicarlas, esto debido a que como mencione al principio, era una transmision del año 96, por lo que el orificio donde se coloca el varillaje de los cambios en la transmision 96 lleva un tornillo 10mm y el hoyo es mas ancho que el de la transmision 2000 que lleva un pin y el hoyo es mas fino. Gracias a Dios, nuevamente tuve que cambiar la transmision por la que lleva mi vehiculo, ya que con la transmision 1.6 el motor se sentia mas desahogado, pero sin fuerzas, ahora con la 1.3 se siente mucho mas suave y con mas fuerza en el recorrido, esto debido a que un motor de pocos CV como el mio necesita una relacion de cambios cortas para mantenerlo siempre en el rango de funcionamiento optimo, y no solo eso, sino que la respuesta al acelerar sea lo mas pronta posible en subir al rango optimo de RPM, eso que esta marcado en color verde en nuestros tacometros entre las 20 y las 37 x 100RPM. Bueno ya para terminar, solo tengo un pequeño problema en la actualidad y es que el cluth empieza a agarrar muy arriba, pero segun lo que he investigado esto ha sido debido a que no compre el kit original, sino uno reemplazo mas barato que venden aqui en RD, eso es lo que a uno le pasa por no comprar repuestos originales. BUeno esta fue mi anecdota, mas abajo muestro las fotos recuperadas de esta historia, y espero esto les sirva a algunos colegas de RD y del mundo. Nueva vez agradezco el pertenecer a este grupo tan importante para todos. ================================================================================ Here I'll tell you an anecdote that recently had with my transmission Skoda Felicia 1.3 carburetor. As the transmission is hurting me on a trip I made some 434 kilometers traveled, thank God could bring the car to the house, even faltandome halfway, so I say that I like the strength and reliability of this vehicle. After removing the transmission, I discovered that the problem was that it came one of the planetary gear differential, so I opened tremendous hole in the transmission where all the fat went, and finished damaging the underlying surface holds the the linkage of the shift lever. Below put pictures of how it turned out faulty transmission. Naturally change the transmission but apparently did not realize that he had bought transmission used belonged to a motor 1.6mpi the year 96, because I had longer changes underway as to the final report, in a few words with my transmission 1.3 in the 5th up to 100 km / h acceleration engine was 2.800rpm, but with 1.6 transmission at the same speed, the acceleration of the engine was only 2,000 rpm. But it does not end here, as also had another problem is that the 1st and 2nd gears were very hard to implement this because as I mentioned at the beginning of the year was a transmission 96, so that the hole where it is placed linkage changing transmission 96 carries a 10mm screw and the hole is wider than the transmission 2000 wearing a pin and the hole is finer. Thank God again had to change the transmission by carrying my car, because with the 1.6 engine transmission was more filed, but no strength, now with the 1.3 feels much smoother and more strongly on the course this because a few hp engine like mine needs a short relationship forever keep the optimum operating range changes, and not only that, but the throttle response be as prompt as possible to climb to the optimum range RPM, I that that is marked in green in our speedometers between 20 and 37 x 100RPM. Well and finally, I have only a small problem today is that the cluth starts to grab high up, but according to what I've researched this was because they did not buy the original kit, but a cheaper replacement to sell here RD, that's what one happens not to buy original spare parts. Well this was my anecdote, below I show the photos recovered from this story, and I hope this will serve some colleagues of RD and the world. New once belonging to thank for all this important group. Here some pics of the old and damage parts: IN RED: The damagge of the transmission a big orificce thaths leave the satellite gears thaths comes out of thir places. IN YELLOW: One of the visual differences betwen the 1.6(left) and the 1.3(right) transmissions, is the bag that in the yellow circle.

Excuse me for the photos, but I had a problem with my phone, and I erased all it takes. As for the repair of the cylinder head, so normal so far, though apparently in my country the temperature is very hot and needed a larger ratiator, sometimes at times I go in the hottest hours, with the air conditioning traffic congestion and the temperature rises to 3/4 even me over there, but the owner's manual tells me that this situation is normal, what happens is that in other vehicles of other brands I have been accustomed to the temperature does not exceed more than half, for example an American Toyota Corolla 2001 has my father. I have had many learning experiences DIY in this vehicle, and although I'm now a little careless with it, is because I think change the version Combi by the normal version, and clear and the experience acquired with this will put it into practice with better results in My next purchase if God permits. Then I go post some other things DIY I've done my Skoda, but this time with photos, jejejej

Hello my name is Leonel Reyes from Dominican Republic, and have a Felicia 2000 Carburetor Com. At first estava a little discouraged with the engine carburetor, thought it was little motor for this box, the largest and heaviest of felicias, but after a good tunneup carburetor + ignition + valve adjustment, I think I've accomplished get the maximum power this engine, and especially loved the car so much, I'm thinking about buying or change my freezer for a normal Felicia. As for equipment, my model is so GLX comes with: -clock Electric front (one-touch up and down a touch to, I love it). Shut Centralized (and as I have no use alarm almost llavines, very comfortable). -Air Conditioning (with compensation valve fully funtional, which makes the climb up to turn on the air). -Seat Height adjustable driver and back. -Aseintos Collapsible rear 60/40. Among other extras. Relamente very pleased with the hardness, simple mechanics and the quality of the vehicle relative to the price and year of manufacture. I have dedicated myself to do electrical work and mechanical DIY, especially in the part of carburetors, adjusting and giving the necessary touch to some fellow same brand and model of RD here. Anything are at your service on tips, common problems and solutions try to be more active in this forum. Now let me show somo pics when my combi was in her bests moments, because now i was planning to sell this.

Hello friends Briskoda ... Firstly thank you all for your advice, I had to make a change in engine head gasket, and when removing the butt I found the same ground, sent it to fill (here in my country they do aluminum welding) and replanar of take step and change the seals shirts pistons and the piston rings, also discovered in the end that my skoda had damaged the temperature sensor, put another sensor and now the temperature is kept below half without a / C and just above half the a / C on. On the other hand put quite normal as far manufactures, 2-speed fan comes 1st gear before the temperature reached the middle, and enters the 2nd needle speed when the temperature is just above half (this happens only when I attack the vehicle), however now when I turn on the a / c is quieter because the range mantientiene 1st velodad only on solid. All good so far the only thing is that when the car feel a bit heavy, nose if you are new piston rings, but I'll try to keep a smooth ride at least until January next year. Thank you all again, it truly is an honor to belong to this forum. Then knob photos of repairs I've done, and also photos of our team here in Dominican Republic

That's brother pincopallino3401, my fan comes on temperature just when the needle is slightly above half enters the low speeds, I have not seen the high coming but I've tried heating the car with the sensor disconnected, then connecting it just as the temperature is in 3/4 and when I connect the fan comes on high speed. So also as previously menciene I put my fan between high speed when it enters the compressor of a / c to avoid overheating. What if I have to do is surely changing the head gasket I think that I have is the factory. As for the English, lol, mine is not very good use of google translator ... =============================================================================================================================== Asi es hermano pincopallino3401, mi abanico entra por temperatura justo cuando la aguja esta ligeramente por encima de la mitad, entra la baja velocida, no he visto la alta entrando pero lo he probado calentando el auto con el sensor desconectado, luego conectandolo justo cuando la temperatura esta en 3/4 y cuando conecto el abanico entra en la velocidad alta. Por eso tambien como menciene anteriormente he puesto mi abanico que entre la alta velocidad cuando entra el compresor de a/c para evitar sobrecalentamientos. Lo que si tengo que hacer con toda seguridad es cambiar la junta de la culata que creo que la que tengo es la de fabrica. En cuanto al ingles, jejeje, el mio tampoco es muy bueno uso traductor de google...

Thank you for your answers friends , I agree with both. According dohnjoe tell me if the fan is working fine, even myself I put it between high speed when I put the a / c to avoid engine overheating so , but I also had to add a direct line from the sensor to relay high speed, so that even if I put the a / c the range between the high speed if they so nesecita . I think the low speed goes to 95 degrees, and the high 'm not sure but I think 108 degrees . Another problem I have is that when I connect the relays fan as they are, it turns on the high speed from that connect the swich , even without being hot car , I think I have a crossing of power lines , today I'll see as propping my board and check if it has to do with some alarm that I installed before purchasing my vehicle. Sorry to vent but also writing me is that when I put the hazard or emergency lights, closed my car insurance, there is a should and also sounds the alarm , so I'm linking this problem also with car alarm . Turning to overheat 'll have to change the head gasket which I think is the factory , and send the head brushing is all so clean and new, hehe. On the consumption 'm a little calmer since I discovered that 6 turns out mixture screw the vehicle is consuming me much less , no longer smokes black nor smell gasoline in the morning , nor turns faulty or steamed in the morning. Thanks for your help , and I'm also willing to help you in anything. Then I upload the photos to disassemble my dash .. Thank you ... ==================================================================================================== Gracias por sus respuestas amigos, estoy deacuerdo con los dos. Segun me dice dohnjoe, si el abanico esta funcionando muy bien, incluso yo mismo lo puse a que entre la velocidad alta cuando pongo el a/c para asi evitar sobrecalentamiento del motor, pero tambien tuve que poner una linea directa del sensor al relay de alta velocidad, para que aun si no pongo el a/c el abanico entre la alta velocidad si asi lo nesecita. Creo que la velocidad baja entra a los 95 grados, y la alta no estoy seguro pero creo que a los 108 grados. Otro problema que tengo es que cuando conecto los relays del abanico como van, el mismo enciende la alta velocidad desde que conecto el swich, aun sin estar caliente el vehiculo, creo que tengo un cruce de lineas electricas, hoy vere como apeo mi tablero y verificar si tiene que ver con algo de una alarma que instalaron antes de yo comprar mi vehiculo. Disculpen que me desahogue escribiendo pero tambien es que cuando pongo las intermitentes o luces de emergencia, mi vehiculo cierra los seguros, no se a que se debe y tambien suena la alarma, por lo que este problema lo estoy relacionando tambien con la alarma del vehiculo. Volviendo al tema del sobrecalentamiento tendre que cambiar la junta de culata que me parece que es la de fabrica, y mandar a cepillar la culata asi queda todo limpio y nuevo, jeje. En cuanto al consumo estoy un poco mas tranquilo ya que descubri que a 6 vueltas hacia fuera el tornillo de la mezcla el vehiculo me esta consumiendo mucho menos, ya no humea ***** ni tampoco huele a gasolina en las mañanas, y tampoco prende con fallos ni humeo en las mañanas. Gracias por su ayuda, y estoy dispuesto tambien a ayudarlos a ustedes, en cualquier cosa. Luego subo las fotos de la desmontar de mi tablero... Gracias...

I have a problem with my Skoda Felicia and necesdito help, and when attacked the vehicle, my temperature rises to more than half and get up to 110 degrees celcius, it happens right after the 140 km / h, reaching 160 km / h can not keep accelerating but for the temperature gradually rising and the last time the probe was raised to 110 degrees. My vehicle is a 2000 Skoda Felicia Combi 1.3 Carburetor. I changed the radiator with a new one, I have cooolant pink good quality, I changed the thermostat by one original factory, the fan comes on temperature, well this happens with the a / c on, which in turn speed hard high radiator fan, so I think that if I do the test without the a / c on then the car would heat up more. Also when driving on ordinary roads, the temperature is maintained in the medium, only when these plugs or congestiuonamientos up in 3/4. That I can do, since my car does not have heating, this was overturned, and therefore there is less chance they have busnujas air in the system, since I have bled several times, ahh another thing is that the last time I went up 160 km / h vote by some coolant reservoir cap, and the cap is also new and original. another thing is how many laps will set the mixture screw our carburetors Jikov? Here actual picture of my car .. ============================================================================== Tengo un problema con mi Skoda Felicia y necesdito ayuda, y es que cuando ataco el vehiculo, mi temperatura sube a mas de la mitad y llegas hasta 110 grados celcius, esto pasa justo despues de los 140 km/h, llegando a los 160 km/h no puedo seguir acelerando mas por que la temperatura se va elevando gradualmente y la ultima vez que probe se elevo a los 110 grados. Mi vehiculo es una Skoda Felicia Combi 2000 1.3 de Carburador. He cambiado el radiador por uno nuevo, tengo cooolant del rosado de buena calidad, he cambiado el termostato por uno original de fabrica, el abanico entra por temperatura, en fin esto pasa con el a/c encendido, al cual al encenderlo entra la velocidad alta del abanico del radiador, por lo que pienso que si hago la prueba sin el a/c encendido entonces se calentaria mas el vehiculo. Ademas cuando conduzco en calles normal, la temperatura se mantiene en el medio, solo cuando estos en tapones o congestiuonamientos sube a 3/4. Que puedo hacer, ya que mi vehiculo no tiene calefaccion, esta fue anulada, y por ende hay menos posibilidades de que hayan busnujas de aire en el sistema, ya que lo he sangrado varias veces, ahh otra cosa es que la ultima vez que subi a 160 km/h voto algo de coolant por el tapon del deposito, y el tapon es nuevo tambien y original. otra cosa es a cuantas vueltas va ajustado el tornillo de la mezcla de nuestros carburadores Jikov? Aqui foto actual de mi vehiculo..

Desde Republica Dominicana apoyando mi amigo Ricardo...

Hello Briskoda friends, I am Leonel (Leo) from Dominican Republic with my Skoda Felicia Combi 2000, and I'm here to contribute and exchange ideas and solutions to the many problems presented by our vehicles, so as also to exchange ideas about performance and tuning our brand / model. I am very proud to belong to this brand of European car, which is very tough, durable, economical, true to his own, easy to make repairs, with a simple but strong assembly, which is more comfortable to make repairs DIY . Photos Bellow.. Now in Spanish: Hola amigos de Briskoda, soy Leonel (Leo) desde Republica Dominicana con mi Skoda Felicia Combi 2000, y estoy aqui para aportar e intercambiar ideas y soluciones a los pocos problemas que nos presentan nuestros vehiculos, asi como tambien para intercambiar ideas sobre performance y tunning de nuestra marca/modelo. Me siento muy orgulloso de pertenecer a esta marca de vehiculos europea, la cual es muy resistente, duradera, economica, fiel a su dueño, facil de hacerle reparaciones, con un ensamblado simple pero firme, el cual es mas comodo para hacer las reparaciones DIY. Mas abajo algunas fotos...