greg123

For anyone interested I have had a couple of offers (including a couple of p/x's which I'm not that keen to take but would consider) but have asked people to hold off till end of auction to see how it does on ebay, it's up tonight just before 10pm if anyone wants in on the bidding! Greg.

Yeah... sorry about that! I pasted in the HTML as I copied most of it from parts of my ebay advert but for some reason it wouldn't display it, so I have had to manually write it! At least it's readable with photos now! Cheers, Greg.

Skoda Octavia Laurin & Klement 1.8T 20v Auto Estate VGC, Heated Leather, Air Con Climate, Xenons, Cruise, MOT CD Click HERE for 99 hi-res photos Walkaround Video Engine Video Radio Video My Octavia - owned 5 years, very rare car and rare condition Ebay Auction starting NO RESERVE at £1350 ends Sunday 10/07/2011 see my Ebay Auction Item number: 290583951270 For Sale with ***NO RESERVE*** is a very rare car, the most luxurious Octavia made. The Octavia is the same platform/mechanics as the Audi A3, VW Golf IV, Seat Toledo and Leon but generally more reliable (check out the JD Power surveys). This car has Audi's 5-valve per cylinder engine (150hp, 134mph) and silky smooth auto box. Owned by myself (an Octavia enthusiast) it has been maintained with no expense spared - I have spent over £2,000 in parts alone during the last 5 years of ownership including all the usual bushes, cambelt, water pump etc! ***Genuine Reason For Sale, Owned 5 Years, 2 Previou Owners, Long MOT, Taxed, Just Serviced, Ice Cold Air Con, Climate, Factory HID Xenons, CD Changer, Full Leather, Fully Valeted, Any Trial or Inspection, Ready To Use*** Here is a list of some of the specification and you can see why it cost just under £20,000 new: Full leather seats in biscuit with matching dash and door/trim panels Leather covered front arm rest, steering wheel and gear lever Cup holders front and rear Cruise Control Xenon HID headlights with jetwash and auto leveling Electrically heated, individually adjustable temperature front seats False boot floor with hidden storage compartment and level loading platform - two side storage, two pockets and one underfloor compartment. Power sockets in boot and cabin Premium Sound System with upgraded head unit/speakers and a 6 disc CD Multichanger along with Traffic Alert and Gala (radio turns up the volume as you travel faster automatically) Electric sunroof with tilt and slide Tinted glass all round Electrically operated remote adjustable mirrors, electrically heated Dipping rear view mirror Two way adjustable steering wheel/column Remote central locking with anti-hijack, auto unlock, remote selective boot unlock, transponder immobliser and two 3-button keys Locking glovebox Deep pile carpets specially for the Laurin and Klement Chrome rimmed instruments with MFD display only for the L&K Fuel and vehicle computer giving average/instang mpg, range, time/distance traveled, distance to empty, average mph etc ABS (electronic anti lock brakes, prevents skidding in braking), EDL (electronic differential lock - stop one wheel spinning eg on ice) and TCS (traction control, reduces power to prevent wheel spin in snow etc) with manual over-ride on dash 288mm vented front brakes (upgradable to 312mm) Map reading lights and rear passenger lights, door marker lights Built in front projector fog lights Retractable and removable boot luggage cover, split fold seats (flat floor over 6'4" long - seat bottoms easily removable) Driver airbag, passenger airbag, drivers side airbag, passengers side airbag 4x electric windows with driver override for rear windows (child lock-out) also has child locks for rear doors Remote total closure or total open of all windows from the remote or key (ideal to close all the windows easily when you get out and have forgotten) 16" wheels including full size spare with locking wheel nuts This car has had a FORTUNE in parts spent on it by me - over £2,000, see HERE for spreadsheet of work done during my ownership, I run a VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda specialist service/repair business so it has been maintained with expert know-how and I know it inside out, any questions I will be happy to answer. I have been supplied direct by Skoda so service parts have always been genuine and premium fully synthetic genuine Skoda oil has always been used. The car has JUST been SERVICED and had only done just over 3,000 miles since the last service! Some of the work done on it is as follows: New cambelt, water pump, coolant, idler and tensioners, aux belt (all done less than 25k miles/4 years ago so not due for over a year/50k miles) New front wishbones, bushes and ball joints - just had tracking set perfectly Nearly new front tyres and good rear tyres Gearbox flushed, oil and filter changd using upgraded fully synthetic oil, kerma line pressure mod, new solonoid wiring ribbon Final drive oil changed to fully synthetic oil Rear axle bushes changed 3 years ago (still fine) Engine has had sump removed and cleaned out, new oil feed pickup pipe (common issue on these engines is seizing due to oil pickup blockage) as preventative measure Engine appears to have had a new turbocharger around 5 years ago Replace the usual splitting vacuum/boost hoses on intake and pressure test the boost system - no leaks, throttle body cleaned and adapted New exhaust centre join/sleeve Air con gassed up and had de-odourising sanitation service Extensive, regular servicing right down to teflon lubricating the lock barrels and specifing the more expensive carbon impregnated pollen filter Just had an interim service last week and ready to go for 10,000 miles or one year - genuine Skoda parts and premium Skoda fully synthetic oil Sold with MOT and Tax, 12 months MOT can be had at cost price of £40.00 as I know it will go straight through with no issues and am happy to do that for buyer. Small chip in window has been professionally treated/sealed by windscreen company Had an extensive HPI/RAC information check when I bought it which showed no poor history/finance/stolen/crashed etc - any inspection is welcome, facilities to put it on a ramp and let you look underneath. To see a spreadsheet of what I have spent on it in parts recently click HERE The car is 9 years old so it does have it's bits and pieces that are not perfect - for full details all about it please see the ebay advert. It's up for sale, drive away needs nothing to use it's on the road right now starting at £1350. Any inspection (including on a lift so you can see underneath) before end of auction welcome - my contact details are on ebay if you have any questions I'll be happy to chat alternatively message me here, email me or call/text on 07946 378509 Happy bidding! Greg.

Pagid from Euro is a cheaper compound than Pagid supplies OE, we get more comebacks with squeel and the bite isn't as good. The stock 312 with genuine (discs are fully anti-corrosion coated) discs/pads takes some beating, if you want an almost over sharp pedal going to DS2500/GreenStuff or similar pads will up the friction but inrease either squeel or brake dust. OE cost a few quid and were really the premium in terms of reaching the best balance between braking, dust, cold response and squeal. Greg.

None if you use the correct, 70 shore, bush. Those using 'petrol' or 'race' 80 or 90 shore will get vibration and no it won't completley go over time, it's less evident on petrols and DMF equipped cars however. It also depends on the shore of the small end bush or if you leave that voided. The smooth way to go which is just a taught in terms of engine mount control, but doesn't give a harsh idle, is a 70 shore 'diesel' big engine and a void fill insert small end on the stock voided bush. A replacement poly small end looks nicer and is easier to fit but is slightly harsher on idle, perfectly livable with unless you are fussy. Greg.

First thing I'd be concerned with is unless you have ALL the bolts torqued correctly within the 10 minute or so window of applying the special sump sealant, it won't have spread out from the bead and sealed properly so you'll have to remove the sump and re-do it anyhow? If you are happy with the sealant, I use an LED pen torch and a thin magnet on a stick to get it from where it sits usually between the holes in the alloy 'webbing' of the sump, you do have to find it. I fit them wiht a long flexi head allen key as this gets them in easier without dropping out, then use a 1/4 drive 10mm on a wobble long extension to apply tightening torque. Well done for doing the job before your engine is screwed, I see 1 sometimes 2 a week killed dragged in because of pickup blockage. Greg.

1) post a full fault code report 2) find out if the thermostat is stuck open and the radiator is getting warm as soon as the engine is, if so you need a new thermostat 3) find out if the radiator fan controller is faulty or there are fault codes associated with the fan control, if not and the fan runs all the time test the radiator temperature switch 4) regarding lumpy running once the temperature issue is resolved check and resolve the common air leaks on the intake, clean and have the throttle body aligned in adaptation. Greg.

Couple of quick points, all bolts that have an angle (such as most of the bolts here including the 3 balljoint lockplate bolts) are stretch bolts and one time only. You don't just use a torque wrench you then put an angle on them having first ensured that the torque wrench was moving at the time it clicked (or the torque on the bolt could have been higher and you wouldn't know). Further, the camber has to be set after this operation and the tracking also if bushes are replaced. The camber is adjusted via the lockplate bolts and shifting the entire subframe if necessary to share errors across the sides. It is acceptable practice to just put 20nm on the lockplate bolts, settle the suspension, check and set the camber (using 20nm again) re check then put the angle on. Otherwise you would be throwing bolts away every time you did an adjustment! The superpro bushes are excellent and to my mind have a number of advantages over stock and powerflex. There are others out there, but I have only used stock, powerflex and superpro extensively so can only comment on them. Greg.

MAF does not cause this problem as the sensor input that triggers the limp home mode and overboost code comes from the MAP sensor in the intercooler. It will 95% be sticking turbo vanes, about one time in 10 I find a N75 valve or hose faulty and have had a couple of faulty MAP's however they don't typically give the same symptom and is pretty easy to spot on a live data scope. The live scope, output test & observation of the control lever coupled with some vac/mittyvac tests diagnose it pretty accurately. Greg.

Not me, I'm on 212k on the one. Oh the other has 105k, I suppose that counts.

PD oil, VAG spec 505.01 is the best as it's fully synth and slightly lighter grade. However many semi 10-40 turbo diesel oils will meet spec and do the job, the 110 is a VEP motor and doesn't have the delicate top end the PD motors have. As for the washer, you do NOT replace it. The sump plug is one time only, you must replace the plug with a new one and torque it to 30nm. We do about 1 sump every 2 weeks from stripped threads principally because the sump plugs have not been replaced each time/over torqued. Greg.

I saw a load from a seller on ebay last year, £79 and very nice. Now I can't find them anywhere nor can I find the threads where we were talking about them and I'm in need of one for a job suddenly. Can anyone remember/have a link to the mfr? I don't want to pay double the price for the miltek badge if I can help it! Cheers, Greg.

Very sorry to hear of the accident. If you can buy it back very cheap you may well be able to break it and get some money back. I'd say it was worth £3k on the open (not enthusiast/biased) market, it's not diesel and it's not estate which knocks a lot of general appeal. However it's condition and 'cult' status goes for it. Cheers, Greg.

VE 110 = 5 speed, PD 130 = 6 speed. Yes, with vcds(vag-com)

It will have xenon's, sunroof, side airbags, ASR traction control, 16in chrome alloys prone to getting bent on the inner (only able to see on 2 post ramp or balancing machine that they are out of round). Get a FULL diagnostic scan, othe than that a HPI check and a standard mechanical/bodywork checkover. Nice motor. Greg.