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pncarrerars

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    Leicestershire

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    Octavia III estate

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  1. These bolts that are supposed to enable the subframe to be reattached in its original position are in my opinion a waste of time and money having just used them on a Golf. Removing the subframe takes longer. Refitting is very difficult as the subframe has to be dead square to fit over the bolts. End result.....the subframe was clearly not in the original position. Realigned by eye using the obvious marks of the original fitting. Bolts thrown in the bin.
  2. I have the same sort of tyre wear on both my Octavia 2.0 tdi and Golf R. Particularly bad on winter tyres but still quite noticable on summer ones. The same with various makes of tyre and over inflation. I have never managed to find the reason🤔
  3. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/page/2/#comment-3943399
  4. Thank you DeltaOscar. Mirrors not unfolding until the ignition was switched on always worked on my 2013 Octavia but not on my 2015 Golf. Now finally they work correctly on the Golf!
  5. According to OBD11:- BCM MQBAB H 5Q0937084AA H14 Software number 5Q0937084AA Software version 0112
  6. I had the same problem on a 2014 Octavia. The BCM needed a software updaye to fix it, there was nothing wrong with the bulbs!
  7. Year of registration 2013 Engine 2.0 tdi Mileage when fault occurred 44375 No warning, heater stopped working, "Check engine coolant!", had lost all water. Luckily having seen this thread I had the parts in stock. Main water pump bearings were shot, cam belt/tensioner & pullys were like new. Talking to other people this problem has persisted since at least the time of the MK4 golf. I suspect that VW/Skoda are well aware of this fault which is why they recommend such an early and unnecessary cam belt change in the hope that customers will get the pump changed at the same time. A very stupid design where the failure of the water pump can easily result in total engine destruction if it causes the cam belt to slip. Put it on the outside of the engine where it belongs in a non critical and easily servicable position.
  8. I have a fixed Westphalia tow bar which has 2 sets of mounting holes in the legs that run forwards into the chassis. One set is for Skoda and one for VW. I accidentally installed the tow bar using the VW holes and had a similar fit problem to yours. Changed to the Skoda holes and the fit was perfect.
  9. The commonly published method to enable rear lights with DRLs uses changes to just Leuchte23SL and Leuchte24SL and this method appears to be for both Skoda and VW. Although this works with some cars it appears to be incomplete for some others. For example I have now established that for a MK7 Golf with LEDs changes are required to Leuchte23SL, Leuchte24SL, Leuchte20BR, Leuchte21BR, and Leuchte27NSL
  10. 'they nearly always leak' is my experience over a number of years with both VW and Skoda using genuine replacements. The washer is steel rather than copper and often has a poor finish so that the chances of a leak tight seal are slim. Why replace it anyway as the washer will be undamaged being so hard.
  11. I have found that the replacement plugs nearly always leak. I now reuse the non leaking original plug.
  12. I would expect the Westfalia kit to code the car correctly as they are the OEM manufacturer of the parts supplied by Skoda. There is nothing to specifically code the car to alarm when the trailer is disconnected. It just happens as a byproduct of coding the car for trailer electrics fitted. If the alarm does not work then the car has not been coded correctly.
  13. The commonly published method to enable rear lights with DRLs uses changes to just Leuchte23SL and Leuchte24SL and this method appears to be for both Skoda and VW. Although this works with some cars it appears to be incomplete for some others. For example I have now established that for a MK7 Golf with LEDs changes are required to Leuchte23SL, Leuchte24SL, Leuchte20BR, Leuchte21BR, and Leuchte27NSL
  14. Further to my question above:- "Does anyone know how to code tail lights on (but without dash illumination like the Scandanavian coding) with DRLs for cars equipped with LED tails as standard. All the codings that I have tried only illuminate a single LED in the tails." I should probably have stated "All the codings that I have tried INCLUDING THOSE LISTED ON BRISKODA only illuminate a single BLOCK of LEDs in the tails.
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