Schern

They're right next to each other on the master cylinder so you might as well just to do a full job.

If you're bleeding using a pressure kit then it'll just be a case of cracking the bleed nipple for the clutch I think. It's down on the gearbox near where the gear shift linkage attaches I think.

Mines just got the oval.

I've got a Miltek non-res cat back on my Estate. Fit's fine. It's on the standard downpipe and cat though so don't know if that will affect things.

Ok, so to resurrect this post... A local member very kindly scanned the car today and it's showing a fault with the front left wheel. I changed the discs and pads on the front last week and the ABS ring looks fine but the ABS wiring loom down to the sensor looks like it's a bit knackered as I appear to have wrapped some insulating tape round it at some point. The fault manifested in the first place after a very very wet trip up to Scotland so I think it's probably a wiring fault rather than the sensor so that's what I want to try first. It makes sense to replace as much of the cable as I can to get rid of any corroded section near the broken insulation so does anyone know where you can get a replacement ABS plug with or without wire so I can cut the old one off and wire up and solder/crimp the new plug and wire in?

On a recent trip up to Scotland the ABS started playing up on the car (2005 Mk1 vRS). It would kick in when coming to a stop but was OK when braking at higher speed. ABS light would illuminate and then turn off on a restart and the issue would happen again until eventually the ABS/TCS light came on permanently (which I assume means the ABS is now inactive). I've run a fault check with Torque but it doesn't show any codes - will vagcom? (I've read that the abs unit stores it's fault codes separately - is that right?) ABS light illumination seemed to be related to steering angle before it went on permanently... On fairly straight roads it wouldn't turn on but when maneuvering in a car park it would illuminate. Any thoughts?

I've swapped back to the original valve but I've been doing the rear brakes and wheel bearings so it's been up in the air for a week. Did a quick test drive and didn't have the issue but it kind of comes and goes so needs a few more days driving to establish if it's cured it. Just out of interest what have people used to attach the vacuum hose? On the Forge I had a jubilee clip but it's not exactly a great fit on the OEM valve!

I haven't serviced it - expected it to be fit and forget to an extent! Will see if I can dig out the OEM unit and see how that goes.

I seem to have an intermittent issue where something is causing boost to be dumped when using small throttle inputs ie when moving off from a junction or on to a roundabout. I can hear a hissing sound so I assume it's dumping boost for some reason. If I give a bit more throttle whatever is open closes and normal service resumes - any ideas what the cause could be? Car is an 05 vRS estate - standard map and on original turbo with 150k on the clock. Recirc is an 007P so that should be OK. Holds boost fine.

What happens at night? We'd still need the traditional power stations for the time when we need the most power. Night time!

Thanks for the link. I'd been looking for standard pressures and what I'd found seemed to be a little bit higher than what mine was running. Does the ECU limit boost a bit in lower gears? I don't seem to get the 0.8 bar spike in 2nd like I do in the higher gears. I also wonder how accurate the gauge is. I've just ordered a bluetooth obdII adapter so will see what the Torque app says when that arrives.

I'm trying to figure out if I have a boost leak or another mechanical/electronic issue which is causing lower boost than normal... Here are a couple of vids of boost levels. The first is a 3rd/4th gear pull. The second vid is a 2nd gear pull (apologies for my 3yr old getting upset - she either gets the giggles or complains under fast acceleration) I've got a silicon Y hose and I've just replaced the lower breather hose too so breather pipes are ok as far as I can tell. I haven't checked any boost hoses. Any ideas where I should look or does boost look normal? Car is standard apart from a 007P and Milltek non-resonated cat back. 145k on the clocks so it's not exactly a spring chicken. Oh, and sorry for the ghetto-ness of the gauge install!

Yes, I've got KitKat on mine.

No, I got mine from EE through Phones4U and it doesn't have any branding on it at all. I'm pleased with mine but I did spend the first few days thinking it was too big. Now I look at my wife's iPhone 5 and think it looks like a toy!

If it's a Q6600 processor I've only recently upgraded my system from using that processor and it was absolutely fine running Windows 8.1 with 4gb of RAM. SSD will make the biggest difference to boot up speed.