roguegoblin

Thanks for the help / type of telling off my wife gives me! Ha ha I did use a torque wrench first time round, 30nm all round (or so I thought). Would using an extension bar on the wrench affect it much? It is possible I missed one I suppose but there is only 3 of them so not much to remember. Wino, that's the engine so cylinder 3 is the culprit. It seems OK now so far. Ill keep an eye on it and check the plugs in a week or so. Hopefully they don't unscrew themselves. Thanks again.

So I've had a look at this. Found that the spark plug in question was quite loose when removing it. Literally zero resistance when unscrewing it. I'm sure it was tight when I replaced them in March. There was loads of oil and crap in the hole so I've cleared it out as best I can and put a new plug in. It's tight in now so hopefully that's sorted it. I ran a compression test and all 3 cylinders are between 15.5 and 16.2 bar with the oiled up cylinder being the lower reading. Fingers crossed else I'm going to lose my sense of humor. I've never loved and hated a car so much!

Hi, Whilst looking at another problem with my 1.2 fabia I noticed some oil pooling around the spark plug on cylinder number 1 (I think it's number one. Far right one as looking at engine). I started the engine and noticed oil bubbling up from the spark plug. I assume this is not a good sign but can anyone give me an idea what's going on and how to sort it?

Thanks for the replies. I'll give it a go tomorrow and see how I get on. It looks like whoever had the car before me had a nightmare with the drum on that side so just left it.

Hi, I've had issues with my handbrake not holding on slopes etc so went to check the rear drums. First side was OK and I couldn't turn the hub by hand. Second side was completely spinning freely even with the handbrake pulled fully up. Anyway I decided to pull it apart and have a look inside. Only problem is that the torx bolt that holds the drum on it knackered. Someone has obviously had a problem with it before and rounded off the inside to the bolt so I can't get it off. Any ideas on how to get this out now? Drill it? I did take a photo but apparently it's too large to attach here. Following this I thought I'd have a look at the cable under the ashtray inside the car. This is not sitting level, the cable on the 'good' side is pulling on the metal plate they attach to a lot more than the 'bad' side. Any ideas on why this is? I assume the 'bad' side is pretty knackered. I'll try to make the photos smaller and attach so u can see what I'm on about. Thanks

I've tried what Steve suggested and used an air gun on the nut but still no joy. Didn't want to pull too hard on the hub in case I dislodged the driveshaft at the other end. The little bugger is not coming off. What about welding a socket to the nut so I can pull on it as I turn it?

I've no clever ideas other than drilling it to death and praying it comes off. It was a new nut I put on and luckily I managed to get hold of another today.

Hi I'm hoping someone might have a solution. In short I replaced my front wheel bearing. All was going fine until I put the driveshaft back in, got the wheel on and tightened the hub nut. I must be stronger than I thought as when I was tightening it suddenly went loose and now just spins about. You cant spin it by hand but with a socket and bar you can. I can't get it off so I guess I've stripped the thread. I'm a bit surprised at this as it looks like a pretty tough bit of metal. Anyway, any ideas on how to get it off without having to destroy the end of the driveshaft?

I recently had a dead speedo, power steering light on and fuel gauge that dropped to empty on cornering. Turned out that when I changed my bearings I broke my abs sensors. Changed them yesterday and speedo is working fine and fuel gauge etc is back to normal. Due to this im pretty sure its driven by the abs system. Just need to find out what part of the system is at fault? Is the abs light on?

Just remembered, depending on what hub nut you've got, you also need to get a 36mm bihex socket. These are a pain in the butt to find in shops but easy enough online.

No probs, I hired the gen2 bearing remover off eBay. Search for gen2 bearing remover and the guys username is phoenix Motorsport. Mine were 72mm bearings and it cost £35 to hire it for a week plus a £5 postage I think. The bearings I got from a motor factors at trade price and were £36 each. They were FAG bearings which I was led to believe were fairly decent and not the type that break after 1000 miles like some I saw on eBay. I'd recommend giving it a go yourself as the only problem I had (other than not taking out the abs sensors) was a bolt had corroded badly so I had to saw off the track rod end and get a new one (£12). Other than that it was pretty straight forward, although took me about 3 hours to do the first one and about 1.5 hours for the second.

Thanks for the advice. Im by no means a proper mechanic but I can do a fiar bit myself. I was feeling so pleased with myself having done the bearings myself for about £90 including hiring the 'special' bearing remover tool instead of £350 the garage wanted. Then I drove the car and the speedo wasn't registering, the abs light came on and then I remembered I hadn't removed the abs sensors prior to putting the new bearings in! [emoji32]

Hi all, hoping for some advice. In brief in broke my abs sensors on the front wheels when putting on new wheel bearings. I only worked this out when I finished the job and have bought two new sensors. I've gone to change these this morning which appeared a simple task however when I've been pulling the old sensors out the top part has broken off of the probe part which is now stuck inside the wheel hub housing. I guess its been inside there so long its seized in and the sensor being made of plastic has just given way. Any ideas of how to get this out? Im hoping I haven't got to take the bearings back off.

Hi, I have today had my front wheel bearings changed using the proper gen2 tool and all went well until I drove away. Immediately upon driving away the abs light stayed on after starting the engine, the power steering light came on, speedo doesn't work and every time I turn the steering wheel or brake the petrol gauge drops down to empty and the petrol light comes on. When I straighten back out or lift off the brake the petrol gauge goes back to normal. None of this happened prior to having the bearings fitted. Any ideas as I spent all my money on having this done and can't really afford to take it to a dealer to sort it.

Thanks for the reply. I will have a check of those things you mention in the daytime tomorrow. The trader is not interested in helping me but fortunately I paid for it on a credit card then paid off the credit card so I am getting help from the card company to resolve my issues with the trader. I was not given any warranty and the trader told me it was all wear and tear, I said to him that its not wear and tear after 4 days of ownership! Part of my problem is having read so many reports of burnt valves etc on the 1.2 I'm paranoid that any little problem is going to be major work.