fusan

So some time has passed and I have been struggling with the car. I figured that since everything else was working, RicardoM must be right in that the EEPROM in the ECU was fautly since I couldnt write to it. I bought a new EEPROM and found a program (Willar) to read the old one after it was removed from the ECU. After reading the original EEPROM I wrote the content to the new EEPROM through Willar and soldered it back on to the ECU. After removing the errormessages from the ECU with VAG-COM, the car started the first time and has been running since.

I have been reading the Ross-Tech wiki: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_I_ECU_Swapping but I do not know the SKC/PIN. Is it possible to adept the immobilizer without the SKC/PIN?

Ive been down to try our method one more time. What I found is that the first key is not present like it was the first time/breakdown. I took a screendump: http://imgur.com/gjRsAKi Compared to the first breakdown when it looked like this: http://imgur.com/0i6FQYo Why is it different this time? Another thing that I wonder about (that you mention in your method that I must have missed with my first attempt) is how/were do you adept the Immobilizer to the ECU? I tried to get Immo Universal Decoding v3.2, but I couldnt find anywere to buy or download it. Anyone have a link?

I would still have to know how to adept the new Immobilizer without the SKC, so I hope someone can PM me about how to bypass the Immobilizer because its the last chance to get this car running.

I replaced the 3 fuses (1, 4, 20) with new ones Disassembled the Socets, soaked in with WD40, reassembled it Tried your adaption method All without success.

Ricardo, ths for the answers. You mention to buy a new Immo, but I got the impression that tha ECU, Immo and Key had to be "Synched" togeter. So if I get en new/SH Immo, how do I make it work with the ECU and Key? I dont have VAG-Tacho to obtain the SKC.

I did run through most of the list you made Ricardo, but still no cigar. What I dont really understand is what fuses is it that you want me to replace? Were are those fuses? I removed, measured the amp in every connector of the Box in the picture. I took this picture: http://imgur.com/ULAg36L of some other wiring (filled with corrosion) close to the Double connector. Can this have some influence on anything? The Immobox has been removed and my brother is checking the EEPROM in it, propobly to reaplace it. Hes asking for a Schemantic. Is this available anywere? Does anyone have a link?

I found out that I blew the fuse on the multimeter when trying to measure the current. So Ive got another multimeter and the measurments, when using 10A were 0.32. After a sec it went down to 0.18 and again down to allmost 0 a second after.

The picture of the Alternator: http://imgur.com/X7YdF3N 1) I would like you to measure the voltage on battery. Volt Measured to 12.48 2) Disconnect the positive battery cable, insert an ammeter and measure the standby current. Mention if you have a car alarm and a radio. I do have a radio but no car alarm. Currently I was not able to see any reading. (Multimeter was set on 10A and DC). It looked like there was absolutely no current. 3) Leave the positive battery cable disconnected for 5 minutes. Reconnect it. Done 4) Try again the adaptation procedure with VAG-COM. If successful, go to 5. Tried but the engine still didnt start for moree than 1 sec. When I turned the ignition of and on again, the Immo error was back.

Ricardo I apologise for making my own assumptions. It was not an attempt to waiste your time or doubt in you. I will follow your instructions from post #45 closely and report back tomorrow.

The last couple of days has been storm and Monsun Rain, so I havent got to check anything. Today the weather is nice and sunny so this is what I checked: I took a picture of the Alternator and it looks like it has a Filter Capacitor: http://imgur.com/X7YdF3N My brother does not have a portable digital oscilloscope, but we could connect a non portable through a long wire. Didn't need to get the car running before. I assume that you wanted me to measure the battery to make sure it had enough of power/volt to be able to write the Immobilizer, adaption. The battery is discharged so we connected my brothers car to mine and tried to write, but was without succes. If you want me to measure the discharged battery anyway, Ill be glad to do it. The Engine is still bloked by immobilizer each time I turn the ignition of and the Immobilizer still have no fault codes. We tried to disconnect the connecttor from the immobilizer to the ring arround the key barrel and it gave this error: VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 1H0 953 257 B Component and/or Version: IMMO VWZ3Z0X3352335 V00 Software Coding: 09600 Work Shop Code: WSC 00416 1 Fault Found: 01128 - Immobilizer Pickup Coil (D2) 35-00 - -

@RicardoM I have not tried any measuring this time. I did some months ago when the issue appeared for the first time. The results are on page one, post 26. I do have an multimeter and my brother is an electronic engenieer so he could help. What wires do you want me to measure?

Thanks for taking the time for reading the thread. The easy part would be to wire another another car to the Felicia and test if I can write to the ECU through VAG-COM. If the issue is caused by the Alternator or ignition system, is will be harder to detect. Can I measure this in some way? If so I have no clue what wires to measure on and what the probper current should should be. Sorry for my ignorance, but Im not a mechanic or very technically gifted, for that matter

Adurer, TeflonTom? any of you guys have some ideas? So what are my options now? Would a new ECU with a matching Immobilizer and key be the way to go from here?

As far as I can recall, nothing really changed. It has only been 1 month since the issue last occured. The only thing that is different this time is that the Immobilizer doesent show any error, even though the ECU show the error that it is blocked by the immoblizer. What I wonder is why would the engine be blocked by the immobilizer if theres no errors from the immobilizer itself.