happyclappy65

Many thanks for this information. Off to the Skoda dealer it is, then. Hopefully, they have the specialist kit. The key fob in question has been in my possession forever, so the car's "only" lost the code for that key that won't start it. Thankfully, the other key's working. Tnaks again! 🙂

Anybody? Please 😶

I made a post on Jan 16th about my Superb 1.4TSI not starting. You can review it here, where I concluded that the security function in my "daily driver" key fob had failed in some way but the security in my almost completely unused "spare" key fob was good to go. So, now my car starts instantly with what was my spare key that only used to come out for services and MOT's, but won't start with the key that I have used regularly for the last 10 years. My question is how do I / can I reset the security function of my original fob? Is this something I can DIY, or does it need specialist services? I've checked the Owner Manual and there are references for linking the fob to the central locking if it doesn't work after a new battery, but nothing about resetting security. In the attached image of the key fob, there's a small pin - the sort you'd find on an electronic gizmo. Is this a reset, and if so how do I get it to talk to the car again? Apologies in advance; I obscured some of the numbers because I wasn't sure if they are security-related. Cheers!

Dug out the spare key which has been in a safe place and only used when car was left for servicing/MOT. The car started instantly! I'll close this topic and thank all for their contributions. In the meantime, I'll replace the 10yr old battery in the 'main' fob on my keyring.

I would say it rocked on its suspension. No significant movement. But it musta done something as it then was able to turn over.

Just recorded this. Sounds "normal" to me, it's turning over as it has always done in my 10 years of ownership. Superb not starting.mp4

Have a 2013 Skoda Superb Estate (Combi?) with 1.4TSI engine. 43K miles since new. Nowadays my Superb gets little use. My wife prefers we travel in her Yeti but this AM I went to start the Superb. Turned the key but nothing happened - the engine did not even turn over. All normal dash lights were on, and the clutch pushed fully to floor. Tried again. Still nothing. I couldn't hear any clicks (from starter solenoids - do cars still have these?) indicating a completely flat battery but nevertheless went ahead and put it on charge for 30 mins. Initial charge rate was 6.5A, falling to 2A at the end of the 30 mins. (I recon that's an indication the battery was not flat.) Tried starting again. Result was as above. Nothing - engine did not turn over. With ignition off and car in gear, I took my foot off the clutch and released the handbrake, the car barely moved down the slightly sloping drive, but did so slightly. Handbrake back on. Foot on clutch and tried again. Hah! Now the engine turned over, and even if I say so myself, it turned over vigorously. Now it turns over but will not start. To be blunt, on cars since 1970, I have no idea where to start troubleshooting, other than was the clutch pushed fully down (check, yes) and is there fuel in the tank less than 4 weeks old (check, yes). I don't even know where the ignition components are to give them the WD-40 treatment. Anyone out there that could help with a diagnostic process, please. Many thanks.

TBH, "If I knew then what I know now", I would not have removed the scuttle panels. My car's 8 years old in a few weeks and I've realised that the external plastics are somewhat brittle, and I damaged one of the scuttle covers. Each of the two covers are held down by a rubber seal forward of the windscreen and a rubber seal around the bonnet hinge. The fragile part is on the underside of the cover where it meets the windscreen, and comprises a moulded lip (actually a protrusion) that sits in a groove at the base of the screen. I don't have any pictures of the underside of the cover, but I've posted an image of the base of my screen showing the groove. I suspect the reason you are finding it hard to remove the covers is that like mine, yours are full of crud that's been washed off the screen. This acts to clamp the lip into the groove and if you pull to hard, as I did, then the protrusion snaps off. So my left scuttle cover has half its protrusion missing and is now held to the right side with a self tapper. So, what would I do differently? First, not remove the scuttle, and with it still in place I'd try to establish if I had a problem under that cover. Skoda calls that "the water box" and if I had my time over, I'd try to see if this was the source of my leak by pouring water in the drainage gaps, but colouring the water with food colouring. Then if you find coloured water in your cabin, you've got the source of the leak. Obvs something not to do if you have a cream interior carpet; mine are black! Second, to test whether I had a windscreen leak, I would just cover the trim at the sides and the top with PVC tape to stop rain getting in. If the leak stops, then you've found the source of the leak and you'll need your screen sealing. (I recommend that if you do that, experiment with the tape on an inconspicuous part of the body, just in case the tape adhesive is too strong and you end up with a car in primer...) The stuff I used to seal my screen is not a car product as such, but is a flexible mastic/adhesive made by Everbuild and sold under the brand name of Stixall. It's available in DIY sheds and from auction sites, and is applied with a gun as you might use for silicone sealants. To get to where the side of the screen meets the body and to force the Stixall in the gaps, you'll need to take off the two trim stips at the side of the screen. Again, you need to be careful as they might be as brittle as mine and are expensive to replace! At the top of the screen, there's a simple rubber seal that sits in a groove and mine came out easily and went back more easily once it had been lubricated by Stixall. If ever I needed a new screen, I'm certain that the installer will have their work cut out to clean all the Stixall off the body, but I'll cross that bridge as and when. The above is my story; there's no guarantee it will work for you. Caveat emptor and all that. Have a poke around THIS website: (http://www.ilcats.ru/skoda/?function=getModels&market=CZ&language=en) . They have exploded diagrams of the Superb, and I found the pages very handy when I was trying to find how the body went together. Stay Safe!

Mine's a petrol-fuelled TSI, but the above will be good to know for the TDI ownership on the forum.

Rather than leave it hanging, I'd like to close this thread with an update. Although I was sure I could have found a member who would have offered me the use of his VCDS, I took what was for me the "lower Covid risk option". I ordered a Carista OBD module from the eBay distributor as suggested by fellow forum member @chimaera. It arrived this morning and the airbag warning light is now fixed. Indeed it took way less time to fix than it did to pay for the trial, which as I have no payment processes set up on my phone, took forever. The manufacturers told me that I could sign up for the 1 year access to the "Pro" features for the airbag light fix and cancel the subscription within the first month, which I have done now. A big bonus of having to rectify the airbag fault warning light was that the Carista device also gives you the opportunity to configure a few other items and I'm now the owner of a Superb that does NOT squawk when it is locked or unlocked. Bonus! Take care out there

OK. Thanks for that. Lesson learned. Is this a dealer thing, then?

Once an airbag warning light has appeared due to what the ECU sees as a fault, does this need to be reset once the fault has been fixed, and if so, how is it reset, please?? The back story. I had a significant rainwater leak in the front passenger-side footwell, so after disconnecting the battery, I removed the carpet and the noise-deadening foam/felt to dry them, and made my access easier by removing the glovebox (disconnecting the airbag switch on the way). To fold the carpet out of the way so it could be dried in the car, I removed the passenger seat and disconnected the seatbelt wiring and the seat airbag wiring and relocated it on the back seat. Now, having found and fixed the leak and dried out the soggy stuff, I've re-assembled the car but the airbag fault light is staying on. When the engine is started the airbag light goes out momentarily, then comes back on again. What I would like to know is whether this needs to be reset; can anyone advise, please? The word "reset" is in the title of this thread because when the airbag connections were separated and the battery reconnected, I had to start the engine to help dry out some of the interior flooring that could not be removed. Is it possible that running the engine when an airbag was disconnected, that the the ECU has remembered that an airbag had been removed, and this is why I'm getting the warning light? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks :-)

I thought I should close off this thread now as the leak seems to be fixed. So, after a month has elapsed, I finally located and (I believe) fixed the rain water ingress. Despite my expectations that a leaky grommet in what Skoda call the "cross panel water box" at the base of the screen was the cause, it was a leak in the windscreen seal somewhere down the right hand side. This was sealed off over a week ago and as of the time of writing there has been no more water ingress. What had me confused was the point at which the water was appearing in the passenger footwell. It's shown in the picture but I still can't see how it got there from the windscreen as none of the metalwork above it was wet. Still, I hope it's now fixed and if after the next significant rainfall there's still no water ingress, the carpets and the now dry noise-deadening layer can go back. Thanks to all for your invaluable help. BTW, I'm also attaching an image of the right-hand roof channel seal, which I removed as part of the investigation. One member described it as being like held in by a windscreen wiper rubber-like seal, and you can see from the second attached image that's a very good description! The seal is held in the physical channel simply by the grip of the profile, but mine now has a touch of rubberised sealant to hold that one in place now.

Just an update before we go into a next year. I have not yet found the source of the water ingress . It is related to water run-off from the nearside roof channel but as the car is frozen up ATM, I can't investiage further. Once the weather improves, I'll post more information.

@nafeun + @geno101 I think I might have found the source of the water leak into the passenger footwell, so I'm publishing this post ahead of claiming my discovery/fix as final - in the hope it might help both of you as well as others. I removed the scuttle covers and set about clearing the scuttle drains. I noticed that on the right hand end of the scuttle (right hand facing the car with bonnet up) there was a cover over where the bonnet release cable comes up through the scuttle - right next to next to the scuttle drain. There's an EDPM rubber grommet on the surface of the scuttle just above the line that draining water would follow. I've concluded this grommet is the source of my water leak, and have applied aliberal quantity of silicone sealant round the mating surface with the car. In a couple of days I'll check to see how well the silicone has adhered. If it's not good, then I'll buy some polyurethane caulk and use that. I've posted some pics of the part in question. I hope they help. @geno101 You mentioned drying your car with a dehumidifier. I've tried two dehumidifiers and discover the car needed to be at above 16 deg C for either of them to work. So, I needed to use both a fan heater AND a dehumidifier!