glenmc

I'm booked in at my local specialist next week for a diagnosis. Any idea what the potential costs might be - worst / best case?

I have a 2011 VRS TSi with a suspected timing chain failure (at least according to the recovery driver). From cold start, there was a rattling noise and nothing else... Symptoms: Seems to crank faster then normal Appears to be zero compression Oil on spark plugs The only error code is P2294 - Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 open Assuming this is a chain failure (and therefore not good news...) what would be the best options? Recon engine fitted by generic supplier Engine rebuild by specialist independent VAG Give up and get another car... For background, the car has covered 70,000 miles and it otherwise on good condition. No documented service history, so probably no point in discussing with Skoda... Any advice welcome!

I read elsewhere that the newer TSi engines don't have a tradtional valve gasket - instead it uses 'green goo'. I had some small amount of green goo on the coil packs. Is this normal? I'll strip the PCV off and have a look at it, are any problems likely to be detected visually (split seals / diaphragms etc)?

The engine check light came on during the initial misfire I had: 001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys P0441 - 000 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent and 000771 - Cylinder 3 P0303 - 000 - Misfire Detected and 004874 - Cylinder Disabling P130A - 000 - - Intermittent I assume that the EVAP and cylinder disabling are symptoms of the Misfore, rather than actual problems?

Sorry, should have said - the mileage is 60,000. Is it likely that a carbon build up could affect one cylinder more than another?

My vRS suffered a mis-fire, then dropped to running on 3 cylinders. Spark plug 3 was found to be black (carbon or burned on oil?) - see pic. Spark plug 2 was slightly fouled, 1 and 4 were OK. The plugs were replaced (coil packs have already been replaced), but after 500 miles or so, the plug is turning black again. Other symptoms which may have a bearing - slightly high oil consumption, and slight smoking on full throttle. Coil packs 2 and 3 have a small amount of green goo on them. Could this be either the PCV on its way out, or possibly the valve cover gasket? Or am I looking at something more sinister (and expensive)? Thanks in advance

Glenlivet? I didn't know that! I can't keep track of who owns which brand. On another subject, my favourite whisky shop, Milroys of Soho has closed - apparently for refurb. I hope it does re-open!

I prefer peated, My favourite at the moment is Old Balluntruan. The undeclared age is actuall better than the 10 year, and not badly priced. (Nicely paired with some good Belgian beer!)

Hi, I've been a Skoda driver for around 6 months, main reasons for moving to Skoda was the amount of car you can get for the money (mk2 Octavia). I wanted something fast, but practical, hence a petrol vRS estate. Mk2 or Mk 3? - Haven't driven Mk3 Hatchback or estate? - Estate, physically no longer than a hatch, but loads more room and flexibility (and imho looks better). Petrol or diesel? - Petrol, better with short journeys, I have vRS and average 32MPG, can get close to 40MPG on a steady run. SE or Elegance? - vRS ? Especially if you can find one like mine, where the previous ownder ticked everything on the options list DSG or manual? - DSG - excellent gearbox. I'm an (almost) lifelong manual owner, but would be reluctant to go back to a manual after driving dsg. The opinion seems to be that if the gearbox survives the first few thousand miles, it will be a good one! Good luck!

I do around 10K a year, and decided to go for petrol. My average (on maxidot) is 34MPG, in reality (on fuelly) is 32MPG. On a very steady run, I can just about get to 40MPG, and it can go as low as 26MPG when 'making good progress' ) I test drove both diesel and petrol, and found the petrol to be vastly better to drive (in my opinion!) Whichever you go for, factor in an uprated rear anti-roll bar, possible upradted shocks/springs, and then a remap

I've found this forum to be a friendly helpful one, you should be able to pick up some pointers there. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/ And there are some very good tutorials on there as well, starting right from basics up to advanced http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm

Now, I'm having doubts again! I'm going to an agent - they do have RR, but say that they only do a before/after at request (and extra cost). The cost is not too much of an issue, but only if it is necessary - I'm not bothered about havign a bit of paper to say my car is fast!

Remap and have fun on the way home it is then! I'm not really bothered about the figures, just thought it might be useful for confirmation that it actually is faster, and not just my perception... Is the general opinion tha the difference is enough to notice using the seat-of-the-pants dyno?

Mine is on H&R 35mm - gives around a 20mm drop on the vRS, so just a subtle lowering. If you are going for handling rather than appearance, then get a RARB fitted at the same time (I fitted a Whiteline on the middle setting) It has gone from cornering like a blancmange to cornering like a proper car

I'm planning on taking advantage of the Shark xmas discount, and having a stage1 remap on my facelift vRS. Question is: should I have a 'before and after' rolling road done to check that I am getting close to the suggested increase? Or just go for the remap, and let the drive home be the decide of how good the remap is?