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BFG

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    Furby mk1 vRS (2007)

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  1. Thanks for the tips. I remembered that I had an old obd2 Bluetooth scanner. That plus torque on my phone meant I could check boost pressure which appears to be running at approx 1.3 bar gauge (max), which appears to be normal for a non remapped car. Still happy with the car. 1000 miles in a week, and it's going well!
  2. Hi, I've just bought a mk1 07 Fabia vrs, and loving it. I've been away from the fold for a few years, having previously owned a pd100 Fabia and mk1 Octavian vRS, but for various reasons have gone through a few cars in the meantime. I thought I'd come back on, and I'm trying to work out if this Furby has been mapped. No clue at the moment. Its good to be back!! Cheers, Andy
  3. I've kept tropicals for a couple of years & have considered marines a couple of times. As with all tanks, the bigger they are, the more likely you are to get away with any mistakes. Marine always seems far too expensive / time consuming to me. Protein skimmers, salinity monitoring, requirement for RO (reverse osmosis water) & the fact that normal tropical kit doesn't like salt means I've tended to avoid it. Have a look at doing a (malawi) cichlid tank. Extremely colourful, lively, overstocking isn't a problem (as long as your filtration is up to it) and a very, very nice alternative to marines. Good fish shops will normally have a cichlid tank on display - well worth a look. This will be my next set up. Edited to say: P.S. It's not like I shy away from high tech tanks. On mine I've got UV sterilising (as a back stop against disease), external filtration, and CO2 for plant growth. It's a Juwel 180L tank.
  4. +10 points to Ken. Pinking has now gone after the service so it looks like it was the oil change. I've just noticed the number of typos in my previous post... jeez!
  5. Interesting to see other folks having a simlar problem. I'll do an update once I've had the cambelt done (and yes you're right Ken there is a service in there too). On different though, is that my sound gets MUCH worse if I try to accelerate harder (rather than it going away) once of my colleagues with a vRS had that problem with the centre mount and I hadn't related it - I'll get that checked too :-)
  6. Ah good point - I should've said it does it on 95 or 98 RON fuel. Will ask the garage to check out the points you mention - thanks for the comments. I used to be quite happy taking previous car engines apart, but a 20valve turbo engine that's only just out of warranty is too much of a mountain to climb (for me at least)!
  7. I've had my mk1 vRS estate for a while now and although it's been great, it hasn't been without problems. Over the last few months, I've noticed at between 1k and 2k rpm if I'm anything other than extremely gentle, the car sounds like its pinking (albeit much much worse than an old astra that used to do it). It's at the point where pedestrians turn and look occasionally. I obviously try to avoid driving at revs that bring on the problem. Not mapped, no mods, and performance once the turbo is spooling is still spot on. Worse when cold, but it still does it when at normal operating temp. When idling, the car is slightly 'tappity' (again as per my old Astra) Anybody suffered from this? Any suggestions? My cambelt is due soon(ish) so there is the possibility to ask my local dealer to have a look then maybe... Thanks for any suggestions
  8. Other option is a Garmin Nuvi 770. Quite pleased with it. Got TMC, bluetooth, and FM broadcasting to play MP3s through your stereo. Did a review of it on ebuyer.com. Can take an SD card. Nuvi 700 = UK maps, 760 = UK and Europe, 770 = UK, Europe and N. America Traffic reception is patchy at times, but has dug me out of many a jam on the M25. A mate has the Tomtom with TMC, and it's much worse than mine (not that that's much consolation!)
  9. Got it sorted - downloaded Microsoft's codec selector, chose powerdvd and it's all fine. Thanks for your help
  10. Oops - that would help Windows Vista Ultimate 32. Got PowerDVD 7 OEM free with the GGC-H20L LG HDDVD/DB drive. Problem occurs in PowerDVD, WMP, WMC but not VLC Have tried with & without hardware accel & ATI drivers + all software updates installed.
  11. I've built a HTPC for Blu-ray and HD DVD playback. It's working great for these with no issues. For some reason though, DVD playback is rubbish. It's like a buffer gets full as play is ok for 5-6 seconds, and then it gets worse and worse. It also sounds like the (hd) dvd drive stops and then restarts making sounds like it's hunting. Have changed it for a normal DVD drive (IDE rather than SATA on the new drive) and I'm having the same issues. VLC player is playing DVDs fine, so it looks like software rather than hardware that's the issue. Any braniac out there with any suggestions? I've installed ffdshow and had a play around, but to no avail :-(
  12. I'd suggest a couple of things: I know this sounds excessive, but goldfish really require approx 40ish litres each as they're such messy fish. The reason they survive for a couple of years is that they're also quite hardy and can survive for quite a while in dirty water (ammonia). In good conditions, goldfish can live >30 years. In poor conditions they'll succumb to diseases like fin rot, dropsy, or something else that makes them go belly up. The reason your replacement fish are dying so quickly, is that where as your first additions had time to get accustomed to the poor water quality, the new ones get 'dropped in at the deep end' and can't cope with the shock. If you have the patience, look up fishless cycling (I'm a member on another forum that discusses this in detail). Make sure the tank is filtered. Really you need to set up the 'friendly' bacteria in the tank that process ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate. Ammonia (from fishy "output") is nasty as they're basically swimming around in their own wee, but nitrite is worse. If you can get the tank 'cycled' then any fish you put in there are much more likely to survive. Ideal tank conditions should be ammonia ZERO, nitrite ZERO, nitrate <100ppm. Liquid tank additives to help the tank cycle are normally useless. Some Maidenhead aquatics stores are now selling frozen bacteria to instantly cycle your tank. It's probably worth a try. Get yourself a test kit from a fish shop - not very expensive and give you much more idea of the conditions your fish are living in. For the size of tank, I'd suggest a Betta (siamese fighting fish) in there on its own. If you want / need any more info , drop me a PM. Good luck Edited to add: If you've got a fish in there, obviously don't fishless cycle. Just consider it if you have to start from scratch again. Also, don't buy ammonia removal products as they stop the bacteria cycle (remove their food), and you'll be buying those same products for ever more to prevent ammonia build up
  13. I'd agree with the others, get a decent rim brake on the rear, and make do. I'd never go without my front disc mind you. Adaptors can be more hassle than they're worth with alignment etc. I had a steel frame modified professionally and even that's slightly off. However, I used to sell Woodman kit at a shop I used to work at. can't comment on this particular adaptor, but may be worth a punt. WOOdman products If you do decide to go for a bracket, be careful - from memory, you need to check the actual design of your rear quick release as some frames can't take the mod.
  14. Jay - was it the Swindon dealership by any chance? I don't know what's been going on there over the last 18 months, but their service / QA etc have dropped massively IMO. I've had to take the car back several times to get fairly simple faults fixed (when they've insisted that the job has been completed). I'm onto my 2nd Skoda & unless I find another dealer, I won't be buying a third.
  15. I'd agree with Joff, I've previously had V's but now running Hope Minis. V's are easy to completely strip down if there's a problem, whereas unless you're willing to deal with brake fluid the only thing you can do with hydraulics is change the brake pads. I had a cracked piston & had to take mine to a bike shop to get it fixed. Hydraulics are absolutely awesome if you're going to be going through deep mud / water / whatever else a trail can throw at you alot as the braking surface is so far away from the rim (and based on this I personally wouldn't go back to V's), but based on you saying it's going to be mainly for commuting & occasional offroad, I'd go for the lighter v-brakes. Also Joff mentioned going for slicks - you could go for 'semi-slicks' - not too knobbly at the centre of the tyre, but some grippy stuff on the edge of the tyre incase the going gets rough. With either of these though, don't get toooooo adventurous in the muddy stuff...
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