climbingwombat

Hi all I wonder if anyone can help. I have a 2005 1.2 htp. Recently I had a problem with the car hunting and going in to limp mode. I took i to the garage and they change a coil pack and the plugs. Since then its driven ok but ....and whether this is coincidence or not...i am suffering from intermittent engine management lights and intermittent starting problems which seem to have no pattern or correlation. The engine management light comes on but there is no obvious impact on the cars performance when the light comes on. Sometimes the light disappears of its own accord. I've used a cheap code reader and the codes reported are pretty consistently. 16500 - temp range 16502 - temp limit 18265 - fuel trim Suggestive of a thermostat/temp sensor fault and a fuel fault - of some description. Starting problems can be early morning after the car has stood or any point in the day following recent use. The car gets used several times every day and the problems are typically once every 2-3 days The symptoms are that the engine turns over ok but no firing and then a faint whiff of fuel - flooding? Or no spark? Haven't yet had the plugs out to check if they are damp/oiled. If I leave the car a while 30 mins + then it typically starts. Sometimes when i start the engine I get 3 audible beeps - I have no idea what this indicates as I cannot find any information on this. It is again intermittent. And whilst there maybe 3 beeps on starting the engine seems to run fine. Currently im at a bit of a loss as to how best to approach the problem. I had seem a reference somewhere relating to dodgy temp sensors causing a change in fuel mixture so tying this to the fault codes im wondering is this could be a problem.. Any suggestions appreciated. Jim

Finally took the plunge and replaced the front and rear bushes on the prop shaftfor approx 350 in parts and labour. Solved the problem straight away.result. thanks for your comments.

Thanks for getting back to me - turns out it wasnt the sender unit. It was an incorrect fuel pump fitted which was not pulling fuel from one side. So doesnt look like i need a sender. Thanks anyway.

unlikley but do you still have this? I think I may have sender probs - yet to be confirmed.

Generally the tyres are about the same - minor saw toothing on one but the thing that makes me lean away from tyres as being the primary cause is that its quite a vibration/drone getting worse from 4th to 6th and only on acceleration. I am wondering if it could be a gearbox problem which transmits vibrations down the propshaft - but thats probably 1) a lack of understanding of the box design and 2) clutching at straws...:-) If I cant get assistance from the garage Ill probably change the prop shaft bush. and then scratch my head a bit and while I consider other options inc tyres and full wheel alignment which I will eventually do.

Thanks for this Ill have a search of the bush kit.

Hi all I wonder if you can help. I recently bought a second hand 2006 octavia 1.9tdsi 4wd with 78k on the clock. From a dealer - but not skoda dealer. 3 days in to owning it and on a motorway run I noticed slight vibrations which manifest themselves as a droning sound and which seemed to be coming from under the car, toward the rear, at between 2300 - 2500 rpm. most noticeably in 5th (60mph ish) and in 6th (70mph ish). I searched the forums and have considered/ temporarily discounted DMF, (vibration is more rear than front), Wheel alignment (does need doing as there is a slight sawtoothing on the rear wheels - only evident on one as the other has just been swapped as it had a nail in it - but the vibration is only under load and only at limited rpm), Rear wheel bearing - again not present at all speeds. I'm left thinking rear diff, prop shaft or gear ox or some other less obvious problem. I've taken it to a skoda dealer for a health check and they have said it feels like the rear diff but would have to remove the prop shaft to have a better idea (150 quid). Currently Im planning to go back to the dealer i bought it from and give them the problem to diagnose fix or cross my palm with silver, if I can under their 1 month warranty - quickly expiring - and I can see me having a battle on my hands. If worst case I have to end up compromising or solving the problem myself any advice on any other possible causes (ideally cheaper than a diff replacement (skoda just quoted 3.5k) would be very much appreciated. Regards jim