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Would this prevent the dashboard from lighting up at all? It's completely blank.

Here's the summary from the VCDS log extract. Basically failed to communicate with most modules. 01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010 04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010 16-Steering wheel -- Status: Malfunction 0010 17-Instruments -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010 22-AWD -- Status: Malfunction 0010 25-Immobilizer -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010 44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010 46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 1010 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000 76-Park Assist -- Status: OK 0000

Quick update. No further forward I'm afraid. Charged battery and refitted. Removed lower dash panel to expose relays: Onboard power supply control unit (lower relays) Additional relay holder (upper relays) Rechecked every fuse (with and without voltage applied) and all still seem to be fine with each having a good connection. Attempted to check what I believe are the main relays hosted in the lower power supply control unit. B1 (KL15) Terminal 15 voltage supply relay B4 (KL30) Terminal 30 voltage supply relay B9 (KL75) X contact relief relay The upper relays D2 Terminal 50 voltage supply relay Need to determine what this powers. The switched terminals of this relay didn't measure battery voltage (12.7v) Instead measured < 1 volt. To do check where the source of the supply voltage for this relay Suspect B4 (KL30) relay Each relay has been removed and tested (relay operates) and each can be felt to actuate when the ignition key is in the first position. Additionally done a scan with VCDS which shows (perhaps unsurprisingly) malfunction in almost all modules (extract attached). Main points from the scan are that comms with the immobiliser has failed. 25-Immobilizer -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100 Which I presume then leads on to the engine module reporting that the engine was prevented from starting by the immobiliser. Any thoughts on where I can go from here? 005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 000 - - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11110000 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 0 km Time Indication: 0 Freeze Frame: RPM: 966 /min Speed: 0.0 km/h Load: 0.0 % Voltage: 11.63 V Bin. Bits: 11101100 Bin. Bits: 11000000 (no units): 33.0 Seems like the issue is power related or perhaps it's the instrument panel itself (given that the LCD was initially showing a strange pattern). ..or perhaps a poor connection or a bad earth? I've attached a copy of the VCDS scan log if someone wouldn't mind casting a eye over it in case there is something to be gleaned from it. There is mention of Terminal 30 low voltage. VCDS-ScanLog-2024-02-27.txt

Thanks again for the replies. Just been out to the car. First thing was to check the initial battery voltage which read 12.21v (which seems low). Attempted to start the car (started and stopped) and recorded the lowest cranking voltage which was 09.47v. Battery is not that old (<2 years) but will put it on charge (CTEK) to see if it makes any difference or is that not worth persuing?

Thanks for the replies. Really appreciate the help. As suggested, just tried the spare key and result was the same. Ignition "on". No instrument cluster lights. Turn the key, car immediately starts and stops.

Needed to add the under bonnet fuse box photo separately... Also once the battery was reconnected the LCD display is now blank.

Afternoon Hoping for some advice. Skoda Octavia Mk2 Scout TDi 2008. Drove the car yesterday evening. Parked on the drive as usual. Went to the car this afternoon and no dashboard lights. Car will start briefly then stops. Can hear the fuel pump just before turning the key. Checked all fuses in the dash and under the bonnet and all good. Disconnected the battery and left 10 minutes. Reconnected and still the same. Attached photo of the LCD display before disconnecting the battery and photo of the fuse boxes. Any further advice on what additional checks I can make to diagnose the issue? Cheers

Thanks very much to everyone for their help and information. Thanks to @Carlston for the very useful information. As suspected/suggested - the front spring is broken at the bottom, which for whatever reason contributed to the spring breaking free from the cup. Found the part numbers for the parts currently fitted to the car. All are OEM - purchased from Skoda. 1K0411105DM - Coil Spring 1K0412331B - Strut top 1K0412249B - Bearing 1K0411315R - Droplink 1T0413031HL - Shock absorber Given the mileage on the car, think that it's a good time to also change the front shocks.. Could someone please confirm the correct replacement KYB part numbers for the above including the bellows and bump stop. As @Carlston mentioned the KYB spring part number is KYB RH2957. Seems that the 1T0413031HL shock absorber is no longer available since 2011? KYB 910177 - Bellow and bump stop KYB SM1714 - Strut bearing kit KYB 335808 - Shock absorber (car has 55mm body and 25mm piston/rod) Thanks again

Thanks all for the replies. I'll take a closer look but does seem reasonable that the spring has broken - especially when coupled with the noise made at the time. Will update...

hi, Hope someone can provide advice on what could cause the front suspension spring to dislocate? (see photos). It's the NSF. Happened yesterday whilst driving around a roundabout (loud "clunk"). Speed was low and luckily only a mile or so from home. The spring has come out of the lower strut socket and is now touching the droplink bracket. From what I can see the spring has not broken (which was my first impression/expectation). Car is a 2008 Octavia Scout TDi. BMM 2.0 (reg. March 2008) The front springs and bearings were all replaced around 4 years ago with OEM parts, including droplinks. Steering rack was replaced early last year, including track rod ends and has only covered < 10K miles. By chance the car has just been through it's MOT - used my regular reputable garage, and car has done approx 200 miles since MOT. Also at the time of the MOT, I requested that the tracking be checked and all reported OK. Can the spring simply be reseated (in place??), or should the strut be removed, disassembled in order to find what's gone wrong? Prior to this happening, the steering felt fine, no particualr noises or unusual steering feedback. I'm hoping there is a known root cause and solution (part no's greatly appreciated if possible). Thanks in advance to anyone willing to share their knowledge and offer advice.

hi Hope someone can offer pragmatic advice... The exhaust system on my 2008 Scout Tdi has started to blow slightly. Checked it this morning to find the weld to the rear of the first silencer box (nearest propshaft) has cracked. On the Scout the exhaust is in 2 parts, the front DPF section with a long straight pipe, when then meets up with the second piece comprising of a centre and rear silencer (both silencers = one piece with no join between them). Took the car the local tyre/exhaust centre to be told that they do not have the part listed so said it was manufacturer only part. They helpfully suggested I took it to another local garage/exhaust specialist to see if the joint could be welded, did this but they said unfortunatley not, but said they could remove the silencer and replace it with a straight pipe. I didn't like this idea. With this in mind, is my only option to buy the complete OEM rear section? Thanks in advance.

Thanks again for the reply @silver1011 I'll go to the garage first thing tomorrow morning as soon as they open and see what they say. I'm unsure of how they could have missed refitting it or why they would hand the car back like that. Really disappointed. This wasn't a cheap job which makes it all the worse.

Thanks @silver1011 Looking like the original seal hasn't been refitted. Notwithstanding the fact that it hasn't been fitted.. Would you say that it's a fire and emissions risk..?

Is there something missing like the large rubber seal which sits between the rack and body..?

Added one more photo...