MathiasS

Thanks, will do tomorrow. I have ordered the spare part (TRW G250) but I can still return it.

My findings on this topic are posted here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/123548-help-with-code-01290/. Will update as the problem is (hopefully) fixed next week.

I have the exact same problem on a 2001 Fabia. Same code, steering assist works fairly good but warning light is on. From investigating this a bit, my take on this is: 1. The pump it self seems to be working. Amps are changing as I turn the wheel, it does assist steering and is not over heated (and does not overheat as i drive it). 2. The 01290 code indicates a sensor or sensor wiring problem. http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic95241-1-1.aspx 3. Looking at the measuring block for the steering angle rate, this is zero. To me, this further indicates a sensor related problem, rather than the pump or anything else. I would expect this to change as I turn the wheel if everything was healthy. 4. Looking at the terminal voltage I can see that this never drops from ~14V, hence I rule out batteries or power cable related problems. Before proceeding I will however check the ground cable from the battery. Summary: Replace the G250 Steering angle sensor including its wires. The original poster asked about a second sensor bellow the steering wheel. According to http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_259.pdf this sensor is called G85. G85 replaces the G250 on cars equipped with ESP. My car only have the ASR (antispin) function hence it has a G250. The G250 comes in two flawors, TRW or KOYO. I could not read wich one I have from VCDS but looking at the PDF above it seems like these two makes have a different looking dipstick/filler cap for the hydraulic fluid for the power steering. I have the TRW version. It would be nice to KNOW that the steering angle rate should be changing in VCDS for this specific car, before buying a new sensor? Br, Mathias

I believe that a lot of things was wrong with this probe..... Btw, I saved my self 50Euros from buying the probe (NGK) from someone else than directly from Skoda/VW.

A short update to close this thread: The car has been parked for a while because we have not had any use for it. Now it was time to start using it again and also time to sort out this sensor problem once and for all. I decided to replace the oxygen sensor. 180Euro for the part, 20minutes of work, clear DTCs with VAG-com and the car was once again running as it should. Thanks all for the input in this thread!

EGR?

Thanks for the link. I think I will sort out the wiring for the sensor and then manyally measure the resistance of the heater circuit.

I have a similar problem on a Skoda Fabia.... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/fabia/fabia-oxygen-sensor-problem/67259/ Looking at group 040, if the field for the resistance is left blank, how should that be interpreted? There is a value for B1S2, but not for B1S1. Br, MathiasS

I have now checked the wiring and it looks fine. Everything is plugged in correctly and there are no visible trace of over heated cables. What I have also noticed during a test run is that the car seems to run normally if I clear the codes after the engine is warm. I drove the car for 15-20 minutes without problems, no DTCs. I also monitored all values related to the oxygen sensor during a cold start of the car - the voltage reading is way out of specification and I guess that is what causes the car to run like crap. I believe all this indicates that the pre heating of the sensor does not work properly? What would be the best way to determine if the pre heating circuits works as they should?

Thats a good point. Will check it all as soon as I can remove some crap from the garage this weekend....

Yes, it should have two probes. Since I was in the car, driving it, when this error first occured, this cant be the result of conectors plugged in the wrong way. But before buying a new sensor, I will for sure check the wiring according to your post here. As far as I can tell from the cars documentation, no sensors has been changed up to now. Br, MathiasS

Thanks for your input. Yes that might be it. I have checked the connector attached to the sensor-cable but that looked fine. I will check the wires closer to the sensor, maybe its been too hot there or something. Any additional input is more than welcome. Br, MathiasS

Hi all, I have a problem with my Fabia 2001, 74kW/101hp, engine code AUB. This is what I get from VAG-COM: Saturday,25,November,2006,17:35:25 VAG-COM Version: Release 607.3-UD Control Module Part Number: 036 906 034 BK Component and/or Version: MARELLI 4LV 3700 Software Coding: 00031 Work Shop Code: WSC 13765 Additional Info: TMBPD26Y413164010 SKZ7Z0Y0678456 3 Faults Found: 17589 - Linear O2 Sensor; Reference Voltage: Open Circuit P1181 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17587 - Linear O2 Sensor; Pump Current: Short to Ground P1179 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17604 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S1: Electrical Malfunction P1196 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Readiness: 0000 0000 From a cold start, the engine is completely without power and sometimes has trouble keeping a steady idle rpm. Once reached normal temperatures it runs better but of course still not ok. If I clear the codes they will come back after a few minutes/seconds of driving. With the DTCs cleared the car feels and runs ok. I first thought this was an electrical problem because before, the car could run for many days before the DTC reappeared. Now the DTCs will be set almost immediately as described above. If I check measuring block 31 (I think it was) two lambda factors are displayed, numbers vary from 0,9 to 1,2 (acc vs deacceleration). This makes me wonder if its really the oxygen sensor that is the problem? If I can read the output from the lambda sensor, the the ECU should be able to do that as well..... Is there any way to tell which sensor generates the first two codes? Just changing the first sensor might be the obvious thing to do, but its quite expensive (220Euros here in Sweden) so I would like to be sure that will really fix the problem. What do you think? What else should I check before changing the sensor (S1B1)? Thanks in advance. Br, Mathias