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wja96

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    Norfolk

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    Audi A6 allroad BiTDi, formerly Mk I Skoda Fabia vRS

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  1. Not really, given that the SE was a parts-bin special that used up all the old unsold options from the factory. The seat upright covers were removed from the cars at the docks and the numbers were stiched into them and the backrest covers were then replaced. The car in this post has them, it’s a 55 reg, so MY2005. If your ‘53 plate was one of the initial Long-gearbox cars it’s possible it was sold before they had finalised the options. They only made a couple of hundred of those and then the MY2004 cars had a slightly different specification which ran through until MY2006 (When the ASZ engine was replaced with the BLT etc.). If the seats you’re talking about are the smooth leather type with the vRS logo stiched into the back, they’re Factory fit options.
  2. Leather seats were always an option on the vRS. It was black and all smooth leather. No perforations.
  3. Those are only LED for the daytime running lights. The actual lamps are halogen. Probably still crap though. The current generation of LED retrofit bulbs are pretty good. They’re not as good as retrofit xenons but that’s largely because the light output is only about half that of a retrofit xenon kit.
  4. If he is still on here, XMan750 can do you a Garrett turbo on a BLT manifold so you don’t need to mess with the EGR or ASV. He did one for me and it worked a treat. It was a straight bolt-on.
  5. If it’s just the Octavia ‘thin’ Spider you like you could fit the 16” Octavia Spider which was the same 16 x 6.5” dimension as the Fabia ‘thick’ Spider. They were fitted to the original Octavia vRS estates and even though you would still need to tell your insurers that the wheels were not the originals, as they are OEM Skoda and the same size and carrying the same size tyre as the originals, your insurer should not surcharge you in the same way they shouldn’t charge extra for fitting winter wheels and tyres as long as they are the same size or smaller than the originals. If yiu want the 17” wheels though, I’m afraid that will be a bit more money.
  6. Sadly there are far too many Fabia vRS owners/sellers who have odd ideas about their cars. I sold my old vRS to a very nice man from Solihull who was going to do it up as a winter project for his girlfriend. I had owned the car from New and handed over the keys and a HUGE stack of bills, service history etc. All in my name. I was somewhat shocked to see my car on ebay a few days later, apparently repaired, MOT’d and all set to go except now it had been in HIS family for 12 years. If I was being unkind I’d say he was a lying bar-steward, but I’m sure he was just confused....
  7. Im very sorry to have to contradict you but the Fabia vRS only ever came with one wheel option - the 16” “thick” Spider. 17” were never an option on the Mk I vRS.
  8. It’s 99.9% to do with company car drivers and Benefit in a Kind tax rates. You pay less BiK on a diesel. Diesels generally are more fuel efficient so companies like them because the fuel bill for high mileage drivers is lower and because residuals on diesels has traditionally been better (because private buyers want the good fuel consumption too!) the lease rates on diesels is lower so pretty much every new company car in the UK is a diesel. And all the ‘perk’ company cars tend to do 2-3 miles to the train station and back and they’re the ones you see having forced regens at the dealers. And the company car drivers don’t care because someone else is paying for it.
  9. 10% fuel saving? How does that work? To make more power, they add more fuel per injection pulse but the fuel efficiency is worked out by counting pulses so the car looks like it’s using less fuel, but actually it’s using the same or more. The extra power is generally made at the top of the rev range, and the torque at lower RPM needs more fuel, so the whole argument about “more power so you use less revs to do the same job” doesn’t add up.
  10. What people will pay for something and what it is worth are not the same thing. Mileage is not an indicator of how well a car has been treated or what damage has been done to components by driving it through potholes etc. Well cared for is a VERY relative term. I bet you I could polish up the paint on any Fabia, give the seats a wet-vac and you’d swear blind it was “well cared for”. And if I’d ragged the motor from cold and rode clutch at every traffic light you’d never know it. I’ve been tuning cars since 1984. I sold my old Fabia with nearly 300,000 miles on the clock and the only modification it didn’t have was a remap. I don’t have a problem with remaps - if you want a good one, I recommend Shark. And Ben Wardle will tell you he’s remapped loads of these at six-figure mileage’s and they’re fine. And if you ask him which two components a remap will destroy first, he’ll tell you turbo and clutch. Possibly the front tyres too! Irrespective of how you drive the car you will place some additional stress on the turbo and clutch and you should budget to replace those. It has been stated in other posts in this thread that they are items you would replace at some point anyway and that’s true. And from expensive experience I can assure that f you remap a car with 100,000 miles on the clock and then you drive it harder (and you will) you will hurry the clutch and turbo to an early grave. Cars and their major components don’t last forever.
  11. @JWvrs25 - no, I’m not on Facebook. And I’ve run several remapped cars (my de-DPF’d Shark CR170 Audi TT quattro was especially quick) but none of them were over 4 years old. Remapping old cars is a mugs game. The PD130 is probably the most remappable engine ever made, but anyone who remaps one at 10-years plus really does need to budget for the bits that will be stressed and quite likely break. Turbo and clutch. And the fundamental advice remains the same. If you want a faster car, sell the Furby and buy a faster car. There are plenty of 6-7 second 0-100kph cars for the same money as a Fabia. Especially when you add in the cost of a remap, a new turbo and a new clutch. To run a speeded up Fabia you want better suspension (and I’m not talking about some crappy lowering kit), ideally a stiff rear anti-roll bar and potentially bigger brakes (although you really need to run a bias kit with the 312mm fronts or the rears never kick in at all). To do all that made sense when you had an £11,000 new-ish vRS in 2006 but to drop £2000 to tart up a £1500 car isn’t smart. Buy a £3500 car instead. You’ll be a lot happier in the long run.
  12. Getting a remap on a 10-year-old+ car is asking for trouble. A remap places stress on the turbo and the clutch primarily. So as well as budgeting for a remap, budget for a new clutch and turbo as well. You may not need them, but then again, you should be aware of the potential for issues. Cars ‘bed in’ so if you suddenly change something major, it is possible it will have unintended consequences. If you want a faster car, buy a faster standard car. You’ll be better off in the long-run.
  13. Could you please confirm the Centre bore, Offset and PCD to save me looking it up? Thanks!
  14. The two fronts are on 3/4mm and the rears are 5mm across the width of the tyre. They are all worn evenly. These are the original wheels and tyres from my old vRS. The wheels are as near as darn it perfect. Delivery is feasible depending where you are. Collection is possible from various locations but the wheels are currently in Norwich.
  15. If yours is a very good BLT engine (155bhp stock) and you got a conservative remap then you may well not notice a huge difference. I've yet to see a BLT engine vRS that didn't make at least 145bhp or more from stock. The best ones made almost 160bhp when they were new. If it's a conservative remap (160-165bhp) with very little torque increase then you might not really notice anything until the car is doing over 4000rpm when it will pull to 4800-5000rpm as that's where it makes the extra power. Most people confuse torque with power. It's the massive low-down torque that makes the car feel like its pulling hard. But the power that actually makes the car faster is developed at the end of the rev range long after the "Whoah" torque has disappeared. You generally have to rev a remapped car to get the extra power. Many people talk about the torque boost hanging on until later in the rev range, but there are limits to what can be achieved on a BLT. And you are sure the clutch isn't slipping and limiting your gains?
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