pyromorph

Just an update on this issue for anyone coming back to this in the future.. None of the symptoms I've detailed in the earlier posts have anything to do with the synchro angle. Most are to do with boost leaks. That said, some observations about adjusting the synchro angle. The value sat at 0 with a regular flickering to -0.6 and back. I decided to see if I can get it closer to 0 and found it's REALLY difficult to split that difference. After an hour messing with the adjustment on the cam/sprocket I ended up with values all over the place and at one point the car wouldn't start and took a while to get it back to where I started. I ended up with 0 flickering to +0.6 and back. With a 30cm 1/2" ratchet, if you feel the cam move then it's too much. I took to leaning on the ratchet and hoping I moved it. If anyone attempts it I strongly advise checking out the youtube videos and making sure you put some reference marks on the cam bolt/sprockets, if I hadn't I'd be in serious trouble and would need to reset the timing (as you would with replacing the cam belt with locking tools). Not sure if anyone else has managed to get the timing bang on. I suspect this is purely an exercise in "can it be done" rather than "is it worth it" Thanks, Phil.

Thanks, I've ordered one as they are not too expensive.

I'm in the process of diagnosing various turbo related issues after I got my original Borg Warner (KKK) turbo refurbished (no upgrades, just a refurb). There's reasonable turbo lag, and I've adjusted the actuator (post install) and can't seem to get the setting right.. seems to be way to far down the actuator... .. anyway... I've been doing some vacuum tests on the vacuum lines and found that the EGR / Anti Shudder / the vacuum ball thingy all hold vacuum no problem.. the turbo actuator on the other hand has no vacuum. I've tested the pipe from the vacuum distribution box to the turbo by disconnecting from the turbo and blocking off.. then vacuum test from the box end and it builds vacuum and holds.. so the pipe is good. If I connect the vacuum tester "directly" to the turbo actuator I get no vacuum. Not a bit. Now, when the car is running you can see the actuator moving a bit but I don't think the travel is far enough (hence me testing the vacuum) My question is: Has anyone had the turbo actuator itself fail? Thanks, Phil.

It's a "stock" map, but many years ago I adjusted the EGR map (driven by MAF) so it "disabled" the EGR. I left the EGR un-blanked. Thanks, Phil.

Thanks for the link, ironically I've had a reasonable amount of hardware for my other project car (MK5 Golf 4Motion) from Darkside, but never spotted that article. Update: I've found that the massive smoke was caused by a boost leak from the lower intercooler hose that I replaced a few weeks back. It looks like the retaining clip had come out of it's "track" on the topside, but in the track on the bottom. The hose appears to try and blow itself out of the intercooler housing but only at the topside of the hose (only visible when looking at it from above). The bottom of the hose is retained correctly. I resolved the issue and then jubilee/cable tied it. It's not coming loose again. I've cleaned my MAF. Next step is checking the syncro timing.

My 2003 vRS is currently on it's second exhaust. The Skoda original has long gone, and I'm currently running a Bosal downpipe (with Cat) and some mickey mouse mid/back box. I've been unhappy with it since I put it on and it's development a few rust holes recently (on its last legs). Skoda can no longer supply the downpipe (with Cat) but I can get mid section and backbox for about £480 ish (which is pretty pricey) Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced alternative? I'm not looking for decat or performance.. I just want something nice and quiet Thanks,

Thanks. Interestingly this isn't a hybrid or modified setup. The replacement core was because they had one in stock and it was quicker than repairing the old core (bearings on the way out). It did come with a new actuator installed.

Thanks for the info, very useful. The good graphs and descriptions are a very good reference. Thanks.

I did, and it was like flattening/turning off the boost. That said, the MAF I replaced a long time ago (12 years ish) with a New Bosch one.. so It could be on its way out or it might need a clean. I'll take a look at the weekend.

Recently I had my turbo (Borg Warner/KKK) refurbished (core was replaced) on my 2003 (pre face lift) vRS. When I re-fitted it I found that there was no boost at all, and after taking a look at VCDS logs I found negative deviation errors and a N75 duty cycle that was screaming "more boost please". I found a way to adjust the actuator setting in situ, but I have to do it by feel. Several test runs and adjustments later I managed to get the duty cycle off its end stop but I just can't quite get it spot on. On a previous run I ended up with it overboosting, and I've managed to dial it back a bit.. but the boost actual is either tracking under specified (low down in the revs) or running higher (higher up the revs) How sensitive is the actuator adjustment? Are we talking fractions of a turn between good and bad? I've attached a spreadsheet with a couple of runs (VCDS logs). Yellow highlighted sections are 100% throttle 3rd gear WOT. 2023-02-26 - overboost condition at the end of the last run 2023-03-15 - after adjustment still looks like it's running away (req: 2340 / actual >2500) Thanks in advance, Phil. 2023-03 N75 adjustment logs.xlsx

My 2003 pre-face lift vrs is getting old and over the last couple of years I've been on a never ending fix/spend/fix cycle to resolve various issues. I'm currently trying to resolve a black smoke, over-fuelling, and mpg loss (currently down by 15mpg.. running between 30 and 40mpg on runs that normally give me above 50) issue. Not so long ago I replaced the cam belt and didn't check the timing. I'd like to rule out bad cam sensor/bad timing. I've never done a "happy" synchro log via VCDS, so I would appreciate it if someone who has could tell me if the attached logs are good or if that 0.0 / -0.6 is a sign that either the sensor or the timing is wrong. Thanks, Phil. 2023-03-15 Synchro logs.xlsx

@caddyman26 Did you end up buying one of these? If so, how much what is?

I've recently done the rear axle on my Fabia 2003 vRS, and I'm not impressed with the Por-15. Albeit the unopened tins/cans where many years old, I found that the black top coat didn't bind to the etch-primer even through the instructions say it would. The Por-15 top coat is like hammerite, but thinner. I did 3 - 4 coats and find the surface quite hard, but once you chip it, it peels away from the etch primer. May have needed an undercoat before the top coat.

Thanks for this thread, there is no way I'd have diagnosed this one as being a faulty fuse. I've a 2003 Fabia vRS, dropped the rear axle off to replace the bushes, battery went flat and so I removed and charged. When I refitted everything back together I got two rear sensor faults. I replaced the passenger rear wheel bearing (It was stuffed anyway) and ABS sensor and then got the additional ABS Return Flow Pump fault. Quick search, found this thread and guess what... crack in Fuse 6. Replaced with a new fuse and it looks all good for the moment. Thanks everyone for sharing on this thread, saved me time and money.

Did you run any of that behind the tray on the inside edge where the original seal is? If you've applied the sealant on the outside but it doesn't go around the edge of the tray and up the back, that might be why you've got a leak. It's going to be a pig to remove the sealant (if it's decent stuff). I'd also recommend (if you do it again) to use IPA to clean the door panel and left to dry before applying the sealant just in case you've got bonding issues. Also, you mentioned yours was riveted. Have you replaced them with self-tapping screws?