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Stunts

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  1. So, nearly two weeks on and all is going well. The coolant level in the reservoir has remained at the mark. Seems it was just a cretin of a tech that couldn't follow instructions......!
  2. That's a good price if they're in. I tried ordering from POTN in the UK last September - £583 all in. Do think about getting the service pack as well, because of your in there replacing the shocks, you may as well replace the isolators etc. at the same time. The shocks I ordered (and that Maddie from POTN confirmed would fit my non-DCC Sportline) were 24-229937 x 2 and 35-229919 x 2. I then added 12-243945 x 2 and 12-281459 x 2 to go in the car at the same time. Do bear in mind that you may wish to confirm this information independently, and that nothing I've said here can be taken as official advice, yada yada yada.....
  3. From the UK distributor, B8's are the ones as they're a touch shorter for the Sportline. I didn't go with them in the end as the leadtimes kept on shifting.
  4. Hi all, I've been a member here for a very long time, and this is my second Superb III. She's a Superb Combi 1.4tsi iV Hybrid L&K, with all the usual refinements that that brings, plus: Quartz Grey Flappy Paddles Massage driver's seat Black Alcantara headliner (amazing!) Boot backrest release Factory Retractable towbar Wireless phone charging 19" Vega Aero upgrade (pretty rare) Travel assist pack Pretty sweet ride, and now I have the coolant issue sorted, very happy!
  5. I collected the car again yesterday. So far, so good. They reckon the original tech didn't bleed the air out of the coolant circuit, which is what I suggested to them. I've no idea how common it is, however, if there's a technical bulletin it's happened enough to be diagnosed. Bear in mind it's only on the PHEV iV model. The way I figured it out was to use a hose clip device to take the coolant hose off the reservoir (battery side). There was significant pressure within that circuit - enough to spray coolant everywhere if you're not careful. I kind of 'burped' the air out by moving the hose to gently let the air escape. The EV coolant side is a low temperature circuit, so shouldn't be over 40°C. Ultimately, when it came up with the coolant error on my drive to Exeter, the coolant reservoir wasn't pressurised, so the A/C didn't seem to be pushing A/C gas into the cooling circuit. The level of coolant was low in the reservoir, so I could only assume that the air lock bled itself to the reservoir. It was topped up by Skoda Exeter, but obviously not bled there as I arrived at 17:30hrs, so there was no time to do so. I then left it with Skoda Bedford when I got home to sort. Collected it yesterday and haven't driven far. If you're buying the car from a dealer, you will probably get a warranty. For the £38 a month it costs, I'd suggest the All In package for warranty and servicing - it's great peace of mind. I bought the all-in warranty the day I purchased my car, it was at the dealer on day 29 of the 30 day no claim condition. The dealer claimed on day 31 and it went straight through with no quibble. If it fails again, I shall be rejecting the car within the 60 day consumer protection as unfit for purpose and not of merchantable quality. I've written records of everything (including the issue on the day I bought it) and I paid a £200 deposit by credit card, so my credit card company is jointly liable for the issue under current clause 75 protection. I don't want to give it back, as it's a fantastic car, trouble aside.....
  6. It's already been in to Skoda for a fix. Hopefully it was just a silly tech not bleeding the system properly. The reservoir is officially sealed and has, this evening, been topped up by Skoda Exeter - much kudos to them for doing it at the end of the day at short notice!
  7. Hey all, I've been a long time lurker on and off over the years, having owned many a Skoda :) I recently acquired a 2021 Superb Combi L&K iV with a pretty impressive spec (to me, anyway). I bought it from Carsupermarket.com. On the evening after I'd driven it home, I noted the A/C wasn't working. I visited a local specialist and they checked everything, took the gas out, refilled and they said there were no leaks. The A/C was cold and I was happy. The dealer paid me back without quibble. A few days later, the coolant error came up on my dash. Checked the reservoir, and, sure enough, the battery coolant reservoir was empty. Did some research, relieved the pressure in the system by undoing a hose and things were good for a time. Long story short, I had the heat exchanger replaced at skoda Bedford yesterday under my full works service package. All was good for a time, but on a drive to Exeter today, the coolant error came up again!! So annoyed! Anyone else experienced this fix having been done (the cost, for info sake, was £1500!!) and the same issue coming up, please? I'm now thinking about rejecting the car back to the dealership, which i don't really want to do as it's lovely! 2021 Superb Combi Hybrid iV L&K Quartz Grey, Black leather 19" Vega Aero wheels Travel assist Flappy paddles Black Alcantara headlining Massage seat Retractable towbar Wireless phone charging Boot backrest release levers
  8. Hi all, odd title, I know. Sorry. I have recently done the swap from Mk3 three way/four way windscreen nozzles (which were toilet) to the Mk2 fan spray nozzles (much better). I've also noted recently that my headlight washers now cease to function. I'm wondering if anyone who has extensive knowledge of the car can maybe confirm if the headlight washers require a specific pressure to operate, or are they motor driven for both the actuation and spray. Clearly there will likely be higher back pressure in a system with little holes in the washers than the large scale squirtage of the fans, so is this likely to cause the headlight washers to not operate at all, or is this just some sort of freaky coincidence? Before anyone asks, yes, I've checked the fuse (well, I haven't physically, but it's on the same circuit of protection as the bootlid and windscreen washers) and the lights were on and it was the first squirt, not the 8th yada yada yada. Cheers.
  9. Update from me. As mine is a Sportline (already lowered) I've ordered a set of B8's. Unfortunately, I've already been waiting a month for them, and it looks like I'll have to wait at least another month. Not particularly impressed with POTN (the UK distributor) who said they were in stock and have already started charging me for them.....
  10. Ah, that makes more sense than what I was assuming. My car is a non DCC, so hopefully I'm good. Thanks!
  11. Hi all, I'm thinking of swapping out the standard shocks to Bilstein B6's. I've given Bilstein UK my reg and the fact that it's a Sportline. I asked if the part numbers fire the mk3 were correct for my car. They came back with the comment 'I have had a look into this for you, and these are definitely the correct fitment for you, as long as you have standard suspension'. Now, my Sportline has standard suspension for the Sportline, but that differs to the standard suspension for the Superb 3 in general..... Has anyone fitted the B6's to a Sportline (which has 15mm lower, and stiffer, suspension) to good effect, please? Mine's a 2018 1.4tsi hatchback.
  12. Not being funny but might a pair of polarised sunglasses help? They remove reflected sunglare from surfaces.
  13. Hi all, I've used the search function to look at results in the forum, but couldn't pin down any specific information about the gas struts on my car. It's a 2015 hatchback with manual opening. I thought the originals were a bit toilet and bought some new OEM ones from Autodoc. These fit OK and do work, to a degree, but there's no damping at the extent of movement. This means there's an audible and physical 'clunk' when the boot lid reaches the end of travel. It's awful. Has anyone replaced their struts with anything other than the hyper expensive Skoda ones to good effect, please?
  14. There's the rub. Anything is possible if you feel like stripping the car. I am by no means inept at electrics (I've fitted an Audi towbar to a modern vehicle in the past and I'm currently restoring a classic with sensible, analogue wiring), but there must be an easier way..... Maybe tap into the rear light feed??

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