pikpilot

I have now had all my injectors replaced. By an independent VAG specialist they were £332 each plus the cost of a stretch bolt, injector seal kit and a seal ring. By a Skoda garage the injectors alone were around £660 each. Add VAT to both prices, and of course labour unless you can do the work yourself including the recoding.

That is what happened on the Mk 1 octavia where the Elegance estate had a sunroof as standard. I don't know about the sunroof on the Mk 2 as it was an option, but I suspect it is very similar. On the Mk1 the drains were a pair of rubber tubes that ran down to the door openings- one for each front door. I found that debris (seeds, flowers etc) would run down the tubes to the end and collect there (the tube was flattenned a bit at the end). Poking with a meat skewer would clear the debris and I always followed with a good flush of water put into the tubes in the sunroof tray.

Check the main body earth connection behind the left hand side trim in the boot. The connections will corrode if water collects there. Main cause is usually not using a strong enough windscreen washer solution in the winter. The water freezes in the pipe and the ice pushes the pipe off the connector. When you try to wash the rear screen. the water comes out of the pipe and collects near the earth connections.

There should be a sticker in the spare wheel well that looks like a lot of three letter codes. The top part of that has a line called engine and gear box. The engine code is a 3 or 4 letter code such as the BMM sugested by Mike.

Have you updated the maps recently with non Skoda versions? See here:

I bought PHILIPS RacingVision GT200. They claim up to 200% more brightness. If the "more" is correct then that means 300% in total but I suspect that is a marketing hype. Note that brigher bulbs don't last as long. Don't buy LED bulbs as it has been announced in the UK that coming soon it will an MOT failure to use LEDs in lights not designed for them. I supect that your county will follow. This makes sense as I can easily tell which cars have retrofitted LEDs by the amount of scattered light sent towards me as a halo of light and the way they light up reflective signs that are out of the envelope of normal lights.. It is not common for dashboard light to go dim. They are usually normal or not working. I suspect yours is a dash panel fault such as dry solder joint.

Unlikely to be burnt as the dip switch gives only a small signal to the power electronics which actually switches on the lights. The dipped lights are poor compared with full beam on my CR 1.6 TDi. I too fitted better bulbs, which helps. Check the earthing as said above if the light colour is not white.

It sounds like that when the servo motor has reached the end stop and is hunting. As above, a reset will teach the servo where the end stop positions are. If left, the nylon geats can eventually strip.

In a Mk2 Octavia the the alarm is accessed by removing the liner to the wheel arch on the driver's side. However, as yours is a 2013 model it could be a changeover model with some differences. If you are sure it is not on a body panel at the rear of the wheel arch (after removing the liner) then ask for the alarm location of the later model in the Mk3 forum. If it has been removed you will find the cable and the fixing stud. There are also location photos in the alarm "sticky" thread at the top of this forum page.

Your conclusion about damp weather is probably correct from having had the same issues myself. During these damp days, always have the air condioning ON if you have climatronics. This will reduce the humidy level in the car and it will be automatically controlled. Also helps if you select a higher than normal cabin temperature.

Funny things like this have been known to happen with water ingress/damp conditions. Make sure you also use the air conditioner in conjunction with the heater on wet days. If you have climatronics then Auto will do the same thing. Another possibility is a faulty door unlock/lock switch - the one in the centre panel in front of the gear lever. It works the same way as your key even to the extent of being able to use it to roll all the windows up and down by holding the switch in lock for up and unlock for down.

What is the lowest battery voltage while attemping to start?

Don't risk it by driving, Could be a real fault such a blocked filter on the oil pick up in the sump. What engine code? - typically four letters and shown on the label in the spare wheel area. What mileage? Have you done an ecu fault code check again?

There are a number of conditions that must be met before regeneration can start. I can't remember them all off hand but apart the revs and load mentioned before, it includes oil temperature, water temperature, DPF temperatute and more than a certain amount of fuel in the tank. The basic trigger is high soot content. You can't burn soot to create ash if there is not enought soot there. Then you have to wait for for the other conditions to be met. There was a good video by VAG a few years ago explaining the process. Anyone got a link?

Not immediatly helpful but read others experiece with this problem here A scan with VCDS would also help.