davegsm82

I should be able to get ECU, cluster, key etc, in fact pretty much anything I want from the donor car but ultimately I would be looking to just swap engine and ECU. Fortunately I'm accustomed to the foibles of VAG stuff, I put a TDi into my T3 which isn't something it was ever meant to have. The 'modified vehicle' thing is the big question though, actually changing an engine with the DVLA is a relatively painless process, just send them the details along with a receipt showing the donor vehicle reg-no etc and they take care of the rest, even for change of capacity. However, I'm not sure how it works when it comes to insurance etc, obviously my T3 is modified and is insured as such, but I'm not sure if the same thing applies to engine swaps where the vehicle has an engine which was originally offered on that platform etc. Will have to look into it I guess. It's more about the scarcity of parts than performance, there's no 1.2TSi engines around here for sale, several on eBay but again condition unknown. This car would actually be going to my mother, and she's not bothered about shredding tyres. Regards, Dave.

I have a Yeti coming to me which apparently has a failed timing chain, I'm not familiar with the 1.2TSi so I am just curious if a failed chain always results in head/valve damage? or do they just skip timing and cut out before any damage occurs? If the engine is a write-off, does anyone know if it's possible to fit the 1.4TSi instead? I'm assuming it's the same configuration, same size block, just different ancilliaries such as Turbo, injectors, ECU etc. I ask as I have access to one locally for not very much. I'm not a noob to this, but I'm far more familiar with the Diesels, I would be fairly confident swapping/converting a TDi but haven't grappled with a petrol variant before.

Located and repaired this fault, found short circuit beneath the drivers side headlight. Repair details here;

Have located and repaired this fault, turned out to be a short under the driver side headlight. Repair details here;

We recently bought a Yeti and didn't realise that the rear wiper wasn't working, I tracked the lack of activity down to a missing fuse in the interior fuse box, but when I replaced it I found that the rear wiper ran all the time (one wipe every 10 seconds) no matter where the wiper stalk was set, also would randomly trigger and sometimes run continuous while driving. I also found an error code in the BCM which rather unhelpfully said "Pump electronics failure" and no other information. The rear motor has power all the time via the now replaced fuse, on pins 1 and 4. Pins 2-3 connect to the BCM and the washer motor, which triggers the rear wiper to do 3 wipes after washing, or runs continuous if you hold the stalk on wash. I found pin 2 of the motor shorted to ground, after pulling the whole tailgate apart as well as the D-pillar plastics to get acccess to the wiring loom. This wire causes the motor to run once every 10 seconds when it's connected to ground. After pulling the dashboard apart to check the BCM I found the short circuit was not inside the BCM, but when I removed the plug from the washer pump the short circuit became intermittent. If I pulled and pushed on the harness the short would come and go. I traced the short circuit down to the wiring loom underneath the drivers side (RHS/RHD) headlight unit, this car has Xenon headlights and I found a badly placed wiring loom was shorting on the metal casing of the ballast. Headlight top, wiring loom middle, inner wing below. Headlight removed, zero ohms between washer pump connector and probe touching bared surface of wire. Hole in Green wire, barely visible. Area under the headlight where the wire was touching. Managed to separate the wires out of the loom, cleaned and insulated the notch with some impact glue, wrapped with self amalgamating tape, electrical tape and eventually relocated the loom and protected with Teflon Spiral-wrap. Full functionality was restored after turning the ignition off and on again, please note that if the BCM detects a short circuit it WILL NOT try again until you cycle the ignition. Note that you can reach the washer pump clip through the slit in the front bumper and by removing the trim panel directly below the washer bottle, in front of the front wheel. The manual says to remove the bumper but it's not strictly necessary.

Just by way of an update; Did some checks on the car at the weekend, this motor (i'm not saying ALL motors) is NOT Canbus, it's not connected to canbus, instead it's connected directly to the screenwash motor and the BCM as found out by another helpful forum member who must have access to diagrams. Part number of this motor is 5J7 955 711 C PL9 - as fitted to a 2012 Yeti. This also supports what I thought was happening when I've been playing with this motor on the bench. Currently it's pointing to either the washer motor OR the BCM being faulty. I'm leaning towards the BCM because it drives the motor with 'Bipolar output drives' (transistors) from signals generated by the stalk, and the screenwash motor works when the rear washer fuse is installed (it's a dual output motor, so since it works one way it SHOULD work the other way). It points to one of the transistorised outputs being faulty in the BCM. Regards, Dave.

Indeed, I'll be checking all possibilities before I bite the bullet and shoot for the BCM. I just have a gut feeling that the output from the BCM is faulty. Looking around on a few site's I've seen people having to replace output driver IC's in the BCM which I'm comfortable to do as I'm an electronics engineer. Even if the BCM is faulty I still have a gut feeling that there's an intermittent short somewhere else, as I'm positive the outputs of the BCM won't just randomly fail. I'll report back once I find out more, that could be a while as this is the Mrs's car, and the headlight washers also soak the windscreen so the impact to her is negligable and she's never eager to give me the car for diagnosis! Thank you again for your assistance.

Have just been out and checked a couple of things. With the fuse out, there's no washer activity at all. With the fuse in place, the rear washer works. The front washer does not work, but you can hear a high pitched sound from the BCM inside the dash the first time you pull the stalk towards the driver, each subsequent time you don't hear anything so I guess the BCM is faulting out, either because it's knackered OR theres a short elsewhere. I did a scan of the BCM and found a fault code: 1 Fault Found 00897 - Windshield Washer Pump (V5) 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01101100 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 5 Reset counter: 46 Mileage: 180079 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2015.04.03 Time: 08:05:19 The mileage corresponds to the current odometer reading, the date isn't correct, so I can only assume that was maybe the first time it ever happened. I'm going to bet that the BCM is faulty. Regards, Dave.

The pumps are odd little things, the impeller spins backwards or forwards to send the water to the back or front screen, the outputs have a little spring loaded non-return valve which stops the washer fluid - A- draining back to the tank under gravity and - B- stops it being sucked back by the pump when it's going in the opposite direction. I dissected one a long time ago and it was a curious but ingenious design. All of this is pointing to there being a connection to the front screenwash not working. perhaps there's a fuse or something I've missed, although it seems very unlikely as I checked every single fuse previously. if the motor was faulty then it wouldn't wash the rear screen, so I can't see why it won't wash the front. Regards, Dave.

Ok, that's really helpful, I hadn't expected that. Possibly a stupid question, but are there 2 separate motors for front/rear screenwash or is it a standard single (dual output) motor? Thanks, Dave.

Funny you should mention the washers, the rear DOES work, but the fronts windscreen wash fluid has just recently stopped working, although the headlight washers DO work when the stalk is pulled towards the driver. The rear wiper operation has been faulty ever since we've owned the vehicle (about 3 months), the previous owner had removed the fuse to hide the fault. I should mention that BOTH white wires appear short circuited to ground, which is why the motor is running all the time. On the wiper motor, it looks like the pinout is as follows; 1 - Ground 2 - Intermittent wipe (when connected to ground) 3 - Constant wipe (when connected to 12V, AND when pin 2 connected to ground) 4 - +12V It's pin 2 at the washer motor that I need to trace out, looks like pin 3 is the one that goes directly to the washer fluid motor, could you please trace that other wire for me? I really appreciate your assistance with this. Regards, Dave.

Hi J.R. I can assure you that either there's a short in the wiring loom or there's a fault in the BCM that's shorting that line down to ground. If you read the last post on my other thread about the rear wiper not working you'll see I've investigated the operation of the wiper motor so today I checked for shorts; Multimeter connected at the motor plug; Direct short to ground with both ignition on and off, irrespective of stalk position. Disconnected this plug inside the D pillar behind the trim panel; Short circuit gone. So, my next question is, where is the BCM on the yeti, and if someone has a wiring diagram, can you please tell me where these wires connect to on it?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the interior of the MK1 yeti? I'm trying to find out where the short circuit is likely to be on my wife's car that's causing the rear wiper to run continuously.

Hi Guys, thanks for the suggestions. I did check the wiring but didn't get to do any voltage or continuity checks at the time, as it was heaving down with Rain. Ok, so I replaced the motor, which made no difference whatsoever. But because I now have a spare motor, I thought I'd have a play around with it on the bench. I've no reason to think that it's not CANBUS, because when you look at the wiring it certainly seems to be CANBUS wiring, however; If you hook up power to the 0V and 12V pins nothing happens. If you touch pin 2 to ground it does a wipe, or hold it on ground then the motor acts like the one in the car, 1 wipe every 10 seconds. If you leave pin 2 connected to ground, then connect pin 3 to +VE, the motor runs continuously then runs on for a few wipes once you disconnect pin 3. This operation is almost like what you think you could expect from a standard motor, not a canbus one. It's like grounding pin 2 signifies 'on', and as if pin 3 should be connected to the screenwash motor to wipe continuously when you wash the rear screen. Perhaps these motors are BOTH canbus and traditional operation? and because of this, perhaps the fault with this car is that the pin 2 wire is shorted out somewhere, meaning it can't read the CANBUS and is essentially running in more traditional operation sort of 'by accident'. Cheers, Dave.

Still having this issue, plugged in VCDS and checked the steering wheel module, in "advanced ID's" There's a status indicator for the rear wiper. The status indicator mirrors the stalk position exactly, so if it's ON (pushed away from driver) it says 'Activated' (or whatever) and when it's OFF, i.e. pulled towards driver it says 'Not Activated'. The rear wiper carries on wiping regardless, it JUST. WONT. STOP. So I've had to remove the fuse. I have also replaced the wiper motor with a good used item, just to rule that out and it's not made any difference.