Nackuk

Did you get it fixed? if not I have a lead to sell that works to tell the ecu the egr is working even if it isn’t. As long as your engine code isn’t CBBB, which is the earlier engine with egr at the front of bonnet and not the back.

Yeah I didn't say much there - was on lunch break I guess - sorry It could be an ABS sensor with those lights. A duff battery if it has had a long service light will bring up lots of errors and dash lights too. As above do a VCDS scan and it will pin point it right to which ABS sensor it is.

Put a new battery in it.

While this isn't going to be the answer to your problem maybe it will help you solve it. On my Mk1 I had the fans come on and they came on like jet fighter engines. They would always come on when the ignition was on. I looked at many things, the electrical schematics, the so called control modules that are brought up on the web. But nope i could not work it out. A licenced VCDS would not see an error code either. Now I can't remember how I worked it out maybe it was the the simplest thing to change in the electrical schematic, but it was in fact the air conditioning pressure sensor failed but in state that meant no error code had come up it was just asking for the fans to come on max. I swapped it and the issue went (luckily the sensor was on a Schrader valve). Maybe have a closer look at the DPF pressure sensor or temp sensor.

The timing belt does not need to jump a tooth for the cam sensor to say hi im not happy, as I’ve found out and was scratching my head in confusion. If the belt was put on but far enough to the in range limit, then as the belt expands slightly with age it hits the limit for the cam sensor to say hey it’s not right. Put a new belt on set it up right, adjust the pulley cam pulley when doing it. To be safe get a new cam sensor put in as the belt has to come off anyway to change it. Mine did show in vcds cam crank sensor issue though. It allowed it to turn over but not start. Although I’ve changed many cam belts, it took my two attempts at setting this one up right, even with the tools. First time it was only so very slightly out, which normally wouldn’t be an issue. It got mine going again first click of the key. It’s was only minutely out by eye.

The unsealed gromit will cause this much water to enter, the high pressure in the area of the windscreen causes air and fluid to enter the low pressure of the cabin by any route. Hence also the usual water issue on the other side. I have seen this issue before on another car which had a swimming pool in it out the drivers side. Remove the rear passenger well plug of a while to let the damp out. There will be tonnes of water undert he carpet in the insulation foam.

Yep, got the timing tool set and Skoda manual to follow. All seams okay. Wound it round several times to recheck before putting the covers on.

Hi, I need some help with my superb 2009 tdi cr 170. It had an issue where it would start from cold every time. But once warm it would take about 5 attempts to start. The glow plug lamp would come on and engine would not fire. I did a vcds which said bank 1 out of correlation. I then changed the cam belt, the timing looked okay and the new timing positions look fine with the new belt on. At the same time I replaced the cam sensor as it is located behind the timing belt. Since then it has only started once, and never again. Now I’m a bit stumped. The vcds read out I get is below which is the same as before. Any suggestions I would appreciate. I’m pondering if I’ve got some broken wires in the working harness? Address 01: Engine (CBB) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb Part No SW: 03L 906 022 QH HW: 03L 906 022 GA Component: R4 2.0l TDI G000SG 9978 Revision: 13H01--- Serial number: Coding: 0201072 Shop #: WSC 91750 042 00000 VCID: 7BF54BD03AC859579A-802E VINID: 91D4925870E405124000920820ABEFB59A 1 Fault Found: 000022 - Bank 1: CMP Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0016 - 000 - Incorrect Correlation Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 63 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 289664 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2016.11.25 Time: 18:14:53 Freeze Frame: RPM: 1058 /min Speed: 0.0 km/h Load: 0.0 % Voltage: 11.86 V Idle Stabilization: -2.7°KW RPM: 536 /min (no units): 33.0

my normal lights now. and my head lights

best photo I have of it. Red pipe goes into hose connected with clip, does a tight turn and clips into plastic box with clip. awkward pipe to get to sit in position correctly to allow those clips to go fully home. Be sure they are. The turbo pressure will push the pipe off otherwise especially if the car is remapped.

I can confirm that my main beam was very bright, but dipped beam was appalling when I changed mine.. difference is amazing on dipped lights now 😁

Phernominal is what it should have said 😏

While it’s a bit of a blurry photo, the difference is over nominal 😁

wow what difference, the others were really naff and past their sell by date by the looks of it. I wasn’t expecting much but wow everything is bright now, I can even see the sides of the road much brighter, and can see the lights moving left and right a lot more now. so glade I bothered to change them now as they’re not cheap.

Old bulbs old bulb old bulbs will the new ones be any brighter. we will find out tonight.