lostsoul82

Okay, So, bought a replacement genuine NTK sensor from Gendan, fitted it, cleared the codes, started up, no light. For the first 5 seconds anyway, then back it came, the code is still 16522. I'm getting really pi55ed off with this car now....

Thats exactly the info I was after, thanks alot! Looks like I'm buying a new sensor then....

16514 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1 P0130 - 35-10 - Malfunction in Circuit - Intermittent 17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1 P1116 - 35-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent 16500 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62) P0116 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent 17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 35-10 - - Intermittent Sorry to revive this after nearly a year, but did you eventually get this sorted? I've had the above codes myself on the wifes' Fabia over the last three years, its a 1.4 16v, AUA engine code. The immobiliser one has only happened once, the coolant temp one happened repeatedly for about 6 months then suddenly disappeared, but the lambda codes are doing my head in! I've replaced the back one as at first thats what the codes were for, then it threw up a MAP sensor fault code, which I (stupidly) tried to replace with a pattern part, that sent the auto gearbox/torque converter up the wall! I put a genuine one in and that cleared, and now it comes up with all sorts or codes seemingly at random, all pointing at the front lambda sensor! All this is accompanied by high emissions that means its struggled to pass its last two MOTs... I've been into my local dealer and they said that they 'rarely if ever' have to replace front lambda sensors on Fabias (I'm on quite friendly terms with them!), saying instead that they cut the plug off and wire it with bullet connectors or similar. Now, I've got a full wiring diagram for the Lambda circuit etc and it shows a resistor between wires 2 and 4 in the plug itself, so how can they do this without there being either a resistor missing or a mess of connectors and a resistor stuck behind the radiator?! Beginning to think its not worth the penny pinching of altering the connections and bite the £160 bullet for a new sensor and hope for the best!

Waxoyl your bonnet hinges! Took me ages to figure it out on mine, was extremely annoying and only happened driving sedately over uneven surfaces, it driven briskly it didn't do it!

I'm looking for the one thing you didn't want, the bonnet! Wondering how a black vrs would look with just the wrc bonnet? It's not that in your face really...

Thats more than a little coincidental, the wifes car after being ok for about 6 months has started throwing lambda codes again, and it keeps popping right brakelight bulbs! hmmm...

Which according to Garrett themselves is the absolute upper reliable limit iirc? Meanwhile I'm very gingerly continuing to run about 175-180 on a KKK BV39! :S

From what I've been told, only where the connection for the intercooler pipework comes off(bottom for PD160, back for PD150?) iirc.

Sorry to bump a dormant thread, but I've searched and this is the closest to what Im looking for! I've managed to get hold of a low milage Ibiza Cupra turbo(checked part no etc, def the real deal), to replace my BV39. My only question is will the EGR line up, as I want to keep it connected for now. Just didnt want to get it all apart and then find I needed a blanking kit!(money is a bit tight). Am I to understand the BPX Ibiza engine was all pneumatic and the BUK is electric actuator etc? In that case this turbo is off a BPX....

Hey everyone, Just thought I'd dive in and second the 'below average voltage' thing. My Fabia started leaving the rear passenger door locked when opening it after not being used for a few day, but start it and the door opened fine. I was about to tear the doorcard off and swap out the lock, but somebody on another forum (think it was TDI owners) said to check the battery. When I did it was at 11.9 volts, but was still cranking the engine just fine! Got another battery and its been ok since. May be worth a shot.

had a quote this week from Wykes signs in Irlam (recommended by Awesome GTI) for £141 all in to get it carbon wrapped. whereas a guy with a bodyshop thats a mate of a mate will probably respray for less than £100. (and he's **** hot too!) What to do what to do, go carbon or keep it original? What do you think?

Mine went on Sunday when I was washing it. Its taken nearly 7 years but its peeled where the angle is for the arial 'recess' in the middle, and on closer inspection there are a few tiny blisters appearing on the left side along the leading edge. I've noticed mine 'hazing' when I've washed it for the last year or so, but reading above I realise I may have made it worse by polishing the hell out of the haze! I'd heard about the peeling issue and just thought I'd been lucky and got a good one. Now I know different, but I havent really got the cash to get it resprayed ATM. Thinking about 3M carbon vinyl wrapping it for now, and if I like it I may do the whole roof! Its black anyways, so it wont be too 'in your face'...........

Hi all, An update on the fault light situation..... The other halfs Fabia went in for MOT today, and failed miserably on CO emissions, even with no fault lights. An hour after this, the lights reappeared! Gettin more than a little pi55ed off now, specially as the codes are now telling me the lambda sensor I replaced three weeks ago is failing again, and the MAP sensor warning is back! So, what to do first? Change the MAP and see if this clears the lambda code(after a clearing out run), or change that again too so I'm starting from fresh? Or could something else be throwing them both off values? (I cleaned the throttle body when I did the oil change, and thats when the lights went out on their own!) Any ideas greatfully received!