cheshire_cat

Non, the box still operates flawlessly and is still in there, just don’t want someone to get the idea and go mad— 75- 90 EP anyone🥴 any more thoughts on my long running drain problem? 🌝

I recently fixed mine by prying the motor tabs open and removing the armature as the brushes still had some meat left I cleaned up the com’ and brushes re assembled drop of oil in the bearings and rebent the tags - it worked, when dismantling make a note of the “ rack to pinion position “ this will ensure the arm parks back in its original position . Also check the spindle isn’t binding in its bushing.

It was thin enough to oil a sewing machine 😖🥴. Did you see my other post today re your advice ,( can bus) which I eventually followed ? Didn’t help but thanks anyway, any other thoughts gratefully received. 🌝

Not entirely relevant but what about the gearbox. I changed mine @16K and it was like dirty water, refilled with a higher grade( not advise 🥴)

I would take them back, saw this recently when I had. The great idea of using my Octy coils on a Furby ( temporarily). Approx 1/2 - 1” too long . Not used them ECP for a long time but understand they do not have a good reputation for the right part. Get a refund and go somewhere else. ( well Iwould 😠) 🙂

Update on project sleeping beauty , Radio removed and can bus reprogrammed ( both fuse in and out) nothing changed? Changed and reprogrammed a replacement can- bus and still the same . Moving on to body control unit “ 1KO 937 087”. It seems to do every thing it should except turn off the power to instrument cluster and can- bus unless the voltage is high. I think the system was changed in 09 to a combined body and power control from the earlier 2 ? separate units. Will any suffix after “087 “ be compatible. Or do I have to rip the dash apart ?🙀. Any help gratefully received .

I don’t seem to get the values on 013 channel ( bin bin bin) and the advanced section is greyed out, any advise grateful cheers Been up to channel 150 and nothing. 😠

Not a bodywork expert but I would have thought it is repairable , probably best to check with a body shop and if you can remove it yourself will save some money but they may want to do the whole job . If your game take a look @ YouTube and see if your brave enough 😉

Up date cleaned the contacts ( about 70) on the onboard controler and the switching now occurs at a lower voltage, 13+ So depends on the length of trip since last engine start and battery voltage also if the radio is adding to the total drain). @switch off and locking of the car this can be as fast as 10 minutes and alls well. On 09 model year ( onward ) was the first year the onboard and power control were integrated into one unit “ vehicle voltage control unit” Does anyone know the “ normal” Bolero drain when switched off? Before vehicle system shutdown. Hope this helps someone. 🌝

Always been a UniRoyal fan mid price good wet grip and sub brand of Continental - but each to his own 🌝

Hi, the car is original to me and so no changes to the radio have been made. I now believe the power control and body control module were combined at about this time. So am going to see if I can get that checked despite it otherwise functioning normally. Drain is @ instruments- 126mA radio@560+mA ( off) and canbus@ 120mA. @ 14.5+ volts everything switches off fine it then takes a few days for the voltage tO degrade before it switches them ( only them) back on 🤯

Not much to update but when connected to the battery charger and the voltage gets up around 14-14.5 the draining culprits - control for can databus and radio cut off, followed by instrument cluster wipers/ turn signal fuse being turned off , when turning off charger the reverse happens @ < 14v and drain recommences . Is there a separate power control to the can bus or is it a body control module fault? ALL other accessories lighting etc behave as expected Any thoughts anyone ?

Well it improved it which isn’t saying much but @ 14 years old the rubbers past it’s best, what it did help with is softening the area/ lichen ( which is like concrete) along the inside edge of the rubber where it squeegees the glass, this can then be carefully removed with a blunt knife, easy to cut the now softened rubber. Only time will tell.

I’m trying out WD40 looks good but early days yet, I believe it’s largely based on veg’ oil

What sort of cost is postage and fitting these days Camskill are a bit shy until you order . Quite keen now you’ve mentioned it 👍