Dave89

Thanks! ..and explains why I can’t find it in vacuum line diagrams. So. That’s not the cause of my now poor braking again and poor spool up of turbo at low speeds. Rechecked all visible vacuum lines and all seem securely connected. Hmm

Morning all, I was getting an occasional hard brake pedal and lack of assistance and through the forum diagnosed a split servo pipe. Ordered, took mine off, noticed it was badly split, new one fitted and I was amazed. Brake pedal soft and responsive like I never remembered! A week later I’m getting no servo assistance randomly. Usually on start up but also periodically. Pipe is very secure so I can’t understand why. I attach a picture of a pipe also around the tandem pump that I noticed was damaged by clips. I’ve moved the clips to prevent further damage but could this be related? I don’t know what this pipe does? Thanks

Did you find the answer to this?

185K. Runs lovely but self-service 4/5K annually thoroughly and had new turbos/cluth & DMF/steering rack (big costs).

Car no longer available for sale.

Hello all, I am advertising my sisters Y registered 2001 Skoda Fabia 1.9 TDI Elegance Hatchback. I originally bought the car for her so am a previous registered keeper (4th), and she is the 5th. We’ve had the car just over 2 ½ years. Location: Bessacarr, Doncaster just off of junction 3, M18. This was our 3rd Skoda Fabia MK1 TDI purchase and was previously owned by a mechanic on this forum. Before we bought it, he showed me the receipts for a timing belt and water pump replacement so I believe this was done about 3 years ago, circa 20K ago. Since then, I have done most of the servicing (yearly oil & filter change but the air filter and fuel filter was changed two years ago. Services completed in June). It is in no way a stunner, but has been a reliable and powerful vehicle that has served her well. She has just bought a 2012 Ibiza so is selling her Skoda on. The car sits at about 147.5K and is pretty much idle now. Positive summary · Interior is in reasonable condition · Turbo and engine pull incredibly well · Has the genuine Skoda symphony CD head unit with radio code · New high quality battery 18 months ago · Replacement (2nd hand) alternator 18 months ago · Replacement steering angle sensor 18 months ago · All tyres have decent tread · Incredibly economical · 11 months MOT remaining Negative summary · Bodywork resembles 15-year-old car. Some small rust patches at the edges of wheel arches and also under the boot lid (photos show this). Small dent on one wheel arch but no paint damage and one either side below drivers/passengers front door. · No gas in AC system but the temp sender has been replaced so I suspect it may work if gassed (I can’t promise this) · You can tell the clutch/DMF has done 140K. There is a little judder when lifting the clutch if on a slight incline but it has done this since bought and I don’t think it has got any worse. There is no clutch slip at all. · Central locking works fine with the remotes but if you lock the doors inside, the passenger door locks but then unlocks · Rear windscreen washer doesn’t function · Steering light came on four weeks ago. The mechanic that saw it said he thinks there is a small fluid leak but the light hasn’t come on since. There was no mention of this on the recent MOT so I’m not sure what triggered this. · Driver's side heated seat doesn't work. Suspect the element wires have broken in the seat pad as this is really common · Car hasn’t been valeted for the purpose of sale Not interested in offers. Based on the age, bodywork condition and niggles, want a very fair £395. Please come and see it and if you change your mind, please walk away without feeling in any way obliged. Test-drives welcome with valid insurance document. Contact me in the first instance and any one looking to view/drive I will refer you on to my sister. Many thanks, David.

I'd be interested in knowing the outcome of this - if you do get it resolved. Mine has never worked but I never thought of it as an issue (never had over heating issues) until I read recently that it impacts the air con compressor's ability to get rid of heat and that's what causes poor performance and hissing (something I've been plagued with for a few years).

Toying with this kit myself for my PD130. It seems a bargain but isn't 'unbranded' like i've been offered elsewhere for similar money. Did you go for it in the end and have you had any problems with the tappets?

Brill thanks. Never knew that! I'll take a look at some kits for an idea on price.

Dragging up an old thread but this was really useful read ^^ Planning on having my timing belt & water pump changed soon. Thinking of having the camshaft and lifters changed too (170K and some shaking on idle at random but no fault codes). However, also thinking about the valve seals as on a cold morning, get blue smoke on startup. However, my question is, do I need a new head gasket? Planning on supplying my mechanic: -Quality camshaft kit with lifters and new head bolts -Gates timing belt kit and water pump -http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Fabia_1.9_2005/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/car-gasket-seals/?362441350&1&6450ac892ddc2f9ded9eca2eef6cb4b3e85880b3&000174 This for the stem seals as hutchysrs50 suggests. -Oil & filter Does the head gasket itself always need replacing or is the rocker gasket fine? There seems to be a range of different head gaskets specd on ECP for the ASZ engine which is rather confusing. I don't want to replace things unnecessarily but since the job isn't going to be cheap, I don't want to skimp on something I should be replacing. Many thanks for anyone who can advise.

I would reiterate. Don't buy new copies. Spent £45 on one plus £75 fitting. Didn't work in terms of central locking and interior lighting. Bought a used job, identical part number for £20. Had to pay fitting again but works a charm. Basically lost £120 on trying a new cheap copy. Having replaced 3 on previous cars with used items I don't know why I went new copy. If you're doing yourself then a used item is so cheap I don't see it being an issue if only lasts 2-3 years. I just can't be dealing with the hassle of the large rivets and fiddling locking rod which is why I pay someone to fit for me!

It unlocks on the key fob but if I press the drivers 'all doors' unlock button - it doesn't unlock. Looking it might be fuse 5 to check so will do that thanks.

Hi all I know locks have been covered a lot but I can't find the exact answer. Had drivers door lock replaced with non genuine new unit today. Works fine but noticed interior light not on when drivers door is open nor is the symbol on the dash. I assumed micro switch failure. However, the car doesn't recognise any door is open when it did before today. Similarly when a door is open, the light in the bottom of the door illuminates. This tells me that it's not the micro switch? Basically I'm baffled. Is the new lock the cause of every door not triggering the interior light and door open symbol or is it something else. I have read the courtesy unit could be of fault but can't find clear instructions on where to find this. Ang pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

If its a VRS I'm not sure the Shell oil is 505.01 rated, i.e not suitable and could cause premature camshaft wear? The quantum is dealer stuff. Take a look at Rainworth Skoda, they sell it at less than the retail. Roughly £30 I think i paid last time?

I did plan to have the camshaft/followers/bearings/head bolts/waterpump/cambelt all done if this is going to be the cause. Frustratingly, the car was 'behaving' when I took that video. Normally, you can see the hoses flexing a good 1cm in distance when it goes for a real shake. I'm just trying to self-diagnose rather than paying a lot of money to diagnose, only to be told what I expected since the car is worth so little now but has had thousands spent on maintenance and want to keep it running well. "Try resetting your injector lash. If you have wear then these would need to be reset anyway. Worth a shot, and it's an easy 30 minute job. Apparently there's a new setting to try, i.e. 180 degrees back turn." I'll research into that as currently not sure what that means... anything is worth a go however! Ash - Your video is how mine can be when really erratic but not so frequently. Sort of confirms in my head that this is the issue, although wear might be minimal at this stage. How did yours drive out of curiosity? Did you notice any different sound or willingness to 'go' below circa 2300RPM? Not sure if I'm imagining this or not.