Jump to content

Gti Fly

Members
  • Posts

    589
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Car Info

  • Model
    2002 Fabia 1.9pd 100bhp (atd)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Gti Fly's Achievements

Rising Star

Rising Star (9/17)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

13

Reputation

  1. thank you for posting the part number guys, much appreciated I've managed to order from local dealer, something like 48p +vat each is the current price
  2. mine are these ones: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKODA-FABIA-00-08-14-Wheel-trim-Hub-cap-Cover-OEM-GENUINE-6Y0601147C-MK1-/322407917791?hash=item4b110268df:g:WgsAAOSwA3dYj9ZG
  3. thanks, I did think of that, but for £15 seems a lot of money to buy potentially a cap that might have the same problem though, as these cars are pretty old, the clips will have all but rusted and snapped on most cars I would have thought.
  4. Hiya, one of my (2002 Fabia comfort) wheel trims/cover/hub cap cover has fallen off. its because the spring clips in the wheel trim have all rusted and snapped in half. The actual wheel trims are fine, just the spring clips that hold them on are knackered - so can replacement clips be bought? if so does anyone have a part number or link to where they can be bought please? Many thanks
  5. You don't actually need to 100% cover off a panel for the sound deadening to make an effect. Even a fair sized square piece of sound deadening in the middle of a panel is enough to quiet down the harmonics. If you have a look on the inside of a boot lid/door skin/boot floor, you will see the manufacturer will often have just a square bit of deadening here or there. If you go to the length of removing that small bit of sound deadening, you'll actually hear quite a difference to road noise. So what I'm saying is, you don't need to have covered the entire underside of the bonnet skin to get some percieable benefits, and yes there's a bonnet carpet there, but you can still place sound deadening to the skin and refit the carpet.
  6. Would have been more effective if you stuck it to the underside of the bonnet skin, but whatever u would still run the risk of this stuff peeling off in time due to heat exposure weakening the adhesive. Better would be to stick the stuff to the firewall, but im guessing that's possibly a bit more work involved lifting up carpets and dismantling bits of trim
  7. I've got a pela 6000, had it probably 7-9years now. Works perfectly on my Fabia 1.9TDI 100bhp. The suction tube seems to go very very far down the dipstick tube, but u only need to measure it up to your dipstick and push it in the same length. Also good for sucking out the remains of oil inside the oil filter housing. There is quite a bit to be got out of there. I always fill up a litre back into the oil filter housing when refilling after using pela pump. I use VW507.00 rated oil. Bought this car with 70,000miles on it. It's now done over 142,000 now. change the oil myself every 12months or 10,000 miles (used to do it more often when I was doing 20,000miles a year, but now I just stick to 1yr/10,000miles) Touch wood, still original turbo (and clutch). Remapped too. So from my point of view, pela works fine.
  8. In the first case if the handbrake cable has come away from the caliper, then u wouldn't get the feeling of that wheel dragging as if the handbrake is on. If you are getting the rear brake dragging then it's most likely to be a seized caliper and/or a seized handbrake mechanism on that caliper. Best long term solution would be get an replacement refurb caliper. The spring clips help push the handbrake mechanism on the caliper back when the handbrake is off
  9. My boot release thing solenoid stopped working. I went to VW and they sold me the entire unit, it comes with the latch etc, so u just undo the old one, and fit new one in place. You need some sort of multi spline tool to undo the latch unit from the boot. I think it was £20-30 when I bought mine 18months ago.
  10. It's really common failure on Fabia mk1 for the heater control to have a mind of it's own. My Fabia has and does still suffer from this too. The most common problem that causes this is a failed heater flap motor. a little electric motor in a box which moves a flap to blend the amount of cold/warm air mix. It's situated behind the dash, accessible by removing the glove box completely and grazing all your knuckles. The electric motor sometimes needs the vagcom device plugged in to reset the flap positions, to allow the electric motor to identify the operating ranges. I've found it's impossible to get the flap to work properly without using vagcom to calibrate the flaps first..... pain in the backside if u don't have easy access to vagcom. On my car I replaced the motor once, but it now appears if the actual temperature dial doesn't work, or doesn't send the corresponding position back to the motor, because we checked this on vagcom, looking at the requested DATA versus the Actual Data given by the temp dial. So in my case I need a new complete fascia, which isn't cheap for a new part. I'd suggest u take the car back to garage and leave it with them to resolve. It's a very annoying niggly fault with fabias
  11. the answer is, it's actually in the mind. perception that it's lighter. There is nothing in the column height that can alter the weight/assistance. However you can permantly change the power assitance level by using a full version of vagcom. My lowly fabia 1.9tdi comfort was set to middle setting (if I remember right). My mate set it to full assistance, and it was like 1 finger tip driving, absolutely no effort required to turn the wheel. Almost like the front wheels weren't on the ground. Odd, but comical. I've set it to least assistance now. Still not much feel, but it's nicer than having it any other way I think
  12. I've done the same on my Golf. I have also got the lidl charger (about £12-15), and have it plugged to my car directly to the car battery for sometimes weeks on end in my garage. No problems and it's been used like this for maybe 5years Same car battery now for over 9years too, so really no long term issues at all
  13. http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/1461-my-r32-11years-old-o/page-11 I'm not sure if they differ on a fabia to a golf, but at a guess the principle design is probably the same. On the golf the shifter cable end links are rubber/plastic. Remove them and fit the metal ones. If you say they make a difference, then fair enough. Maybe the fabia is totally different to a Golf. But lots of people also have said this mod on a Golf is awesome too. I'm not convinced myself. Back to topic, if the ones on the fabia are knackered upon inspection then yes change them/renew them.
  14. I'd suggest re-adjusting the cables on the gearbox end, and an oil change. inspect the shifter cable bushes by all means, but unless they are properly knackered, i wouldn't bother with draft42 / solid bushes. I fitted solid bushes to my mk4 R32's gearbox shifter cables. The bushes on the car were close to 100,000miles and 10years old, but there was almost no difference after fitting the solid bushes. It's overated to do this mod if i'm honest
  15. Well I've been using it now, done 3 tanks so far. The instructions state that you do a 3-2-1 treatment over the first 3 tanks of fuel, ie triple dosage of rhino with first tank, double with 2nd tank, 1 shot with 3rd fill up. My car has been always filled up with BP ultimate (and occasionally Vpower Diesel). With Rhino Diesel additive you are told to use normal fuel (not BP ultimate/Vpower etc). So I've been using Co-op diesel, then Shell (fuel save) since using Rhino diesel. Now from my own observations, The engine sounded/felt smoother, marginally. Nothing majorly different however, so could just be placebo.... Powerwise - car felt slower in the mid and upper rev range (I have a remapped PD100, puts out arond 135bhp/220lbs). Personally I don't like that. I didn't like the feeling of less power, specially for fast motorway driving. Smoke wise, seems better slightly less than before. Cold start - with the very cold temps we are having right now, the car will start as normal, but it feels a little misfirey for first few seconds, lumpy. Not sure if this is more to do with the cold, or the fact I'm no longer using premium diesel. I suspect it's to do with the cold. Overall, I'd say I think using Rhino diesel isn't quite the magical replacement for Premium Diesel fuels, which might go against the tonnes of pages of postive reviews this product gets on the internet.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.