sniper29a

don't bother about DPF cleaning...it is like air filters placebo use fuel additive designed for optimal burning of diesel such as Envirox DPF Assist (used by Czech Army), VIF or LiquiMoly. do pre-emptive flat-out session in mountains and you will laugh about "horror" stories of misinformed public. You avoid damaged turbo, clogged DPF and so on...as my friend - one of the top car mechanic I know - once said "bloody hell man, your car have no time to build up any **** in engine, turbo, DPF" :-D I've so called chipped ECU, OEM clutch and DPF and 230k km on ODO :-D But don't tell anybody because eExperts are everywhere !!!

unsure about petrol clutch but TDi clutch has limit 400Nm with standard ECU calibration 320Nm. With typical percent-master chiptuner, you can easily get over 400Nm and typical outcry of destroyed clutch combined with misunderstanding of proper engine utilisation. If you know how to use engine output properly...you still have OEM clutch even after remap and heavy duty racing abuse.

I use thicker LiquiMoly 75W-90 for my 02Q HLV. Confirmed by oil lab...reduced wear for my driving style. Hajes Racing replaces gearbox oil every fourth engine oil change (in my case every 40k km) Watch out for correct amount of oil because VAG made some changes !!!

just quick glance... MAP most likely dead or altitude sensor in ECU dead it looks like every sensor is dead :-D ECU allows boost according oil/coolant temp, altitude, MAF and so on...fuel temp is for injection correction.

are you aware that boost/torque starts at around 1850rpm and optimal engine output is around 2500rpm??? keep driving under 1800rpm and save lots of money for clutch and crankshaft bearing if you are lucky and your engine won't seize. otherwise, poor boost is usually EGR/MAF combo. Since you played with both. If you have VAG, you can carry on MAF sensor and EGR test

unsure about older Maxidot but you can store two trips at once. so you most likely hold one of buttons too long and it switched between 1 and 2 or activated second trip ;-)

you suppose to take whole carrier off and then play with arms ;-) four bolts and your life is easy.

if you have so called chiptuning it may be normal. I used to have clogged DPF and it took me a half year of high-g, high EGT alpine fun to burn out clogged DPF. Now, I use special fuel additive. Most chiptuners don't know what they do and just add percents of fuel (as I have written in HOW TO CHOOSE KNOWLEDGABLE CHIPTUNER, which was blocked :-D...resulting in unusual DPF regens very often. If I drive flat out in Alps with EGT over 800deg C...DPF is full of soot in about 100km...no problem DPF regen three times per day.

Weitec + Powerflex survived my racing style driving in Alps. Dampers still working after 70k km. If you feel maintenancy...you can refurbish them and they will be as new. Standard dampers and bushing destroyed in about 15k km (in my case twice a year replacement) but it was on my Fabia HR II...light car. Octavia HR I with heavy front is built on custom rally suspension and will last at least 70k till damper refurbishment. Keep stock springs and get something like Koni FSD. Weitec used to be great compromise of little lowering and slightly higher spring rates (harder springs)

if you like noise and placebo...BUY IT. there are many who swear it works. science says - paper filter has better flow and filtration than anything else. it cost nothing to replace it every 5000km in dusty environment ;-) most kits are poorly designed and you will become victim of heat soaking. Hajes Racing measured 50mbar pressure drop with OEM airbox. With K&N and other marketing hype...you get maybe 5% better air flow but decreased filtration !!! K&N is very popular by their claims about increased air flow but they forget to tell you it is thanks to reduced filtration and long term damage to engine. rather spend your money on karting and car seat upgrade...that's the best upgrade you can ever get. Nothing ****es off tuners more than stock car with upgraded car seat beating their highly tuned machines with poor car seat ;-)

I recently replaced rear wheel bearings and there was rust/dirt, which blocked ABS sensor. Check out first. It was simply cleaning for proper ABS function before I switched this useless assistant again :-D

RS has got 2cm shorter springs compared to standard model. RS has got higher spring rates Combi usually have higher spring rates on rear axle I never investigated colors of OEM springs. They will most likely be all same with +- 5% different spring rates

make sure they know about updated quantity of gearbox oil !!! my 02Q HLV used to have 2.5l and now is 2.8l if I recall correctly. Oil lab confirmed excessive wear of gearbox due low oil level !!! I use thicker LiquiMoly 75W-90 though...normal gearbox oil us 75W-80 I think

you won't make anything wrong with new bearings - I replace them often. It is cheap and fuel economy doesn't suffer. if you like some hand brake fun...don't confuse damaged wheel bearing with flat patches of damaged tyre. I managed to destroy alloy rims...with run out 5mm :-D It makes similar noise to damaged wheel bearing bottom line...if you have still round rims, no flat spots on tyre and don't drive winter tires...it is bearing

I change it every second oil change...in my case 20k km...all filters are cheapest solution to most problems. air filter, fuel filter cost nothing compared with damaged engine and increased fuel consumption. clogged DPF increases fuel consumption from 0.5l/100 up to turbo failure