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Simonbt

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    Sheffield

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    Audi A3

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  1. I've just had the £150 remap from Awesome done on my A3 1.9TDI (8P) yesterday. Its a very progressive map, quite smooth in the power delivery which I really like. Makes motorway driving a pleasure, on the hour and a 1/2 drive back it was very noticable how you don't need to change gear at much to achieve the same. Also got 52mpg driving there, and 58mpg driving back - Sheffield to manchester (m1 -> m62 -> m60) and considering driving back was with the remap I'm sure you can imagine I wasn't exactly driving normally And no smoke! For the first time in 4-5 years of having a car with this engine not mapped I actually went out in it last night just for a drive about! Oh, probably the more important thing for me - no smoke! Only downside is there's no rolling road of your car, so you don't know the numbers before and after. Personally how it drove for me was more important (even though I would liked to have known what it produced!) Also, 30 day money back guarentee - You don't like the map, they will take it off your car and refund within the 30 days. Good job Awesome!
  2. Sold to dodger21! A pleasure to do business with you, enjoy the new found grip
  3. As per the title I'm looking to sell my wheels and tyres from my old Mk1 Fabia. I've recently bought myself an A3 so have no use for these wheels/tires any more. The tires have done about 900 motorway miles so they are pretty much as new, fitted to a set of black Mk1 VRS alloys. These tyres are amazing, If i could put them on the Audi i would in a heart beat! The wheels are a little scuffed in places (not much though), no gouges or damage. I'm looking for £330 - I paid more than that for the tyres on their own, so you're getting the wheels for nowt! There's no close up photos at the moment, but new tires are new tires - Please note, the wheels are black! Attached is a picture I've found of the wheels on my old car. I'm based in Sheffield, and happy to deliver up to about 70 miles away or meet somewhere - Courier can also be arranged. £330 --==Edit==-- As several people have asked for pictures, here they are - Two wheels are pretty much perfect, the other two have a bit of kerbing and scuffs (the white and dark on the spokes is plastic which will likely come off with some thinners). Wheels are straight and true, but could do with a bit of a clean. The wheels aren't cosmetically perfect, which is why you're pretty much getting them for free with the tires - Did i mention how awesome these tires are?!
  4. Well, mines not the VRS but the TDI so almost the same I'm on 149k at the moment, but mines been garaged for the past three months as I've had a company van to drive around. Just getting it all sorted to get it back on the road, with a 100mile a day round trip commute and a fair amount of business miles I imagine I'll hit the 200k mark by the end of the year/mid next year. I got the car at about 100k and the previous owner used it mostly motorways and used to take it to a Skoda dealership and just say "do whatever it needs" - Had a couple of thousand spent on it over its life with her just on (pointless) maintainance. Myself, I've replaced tie rods, trackrod ends, front springs, ARB bushes and drop links and wishbone bushes and tbh it drives like new.
  5. Pretty much exactly what I said mate, it's fine if you're inconciderate and they should fail an MOT - if you get your car inspected somewhere that will pass HIDS without beam control, washers and levellers I'm sure they won't appreciate you broadcasting it on a public forum. I just hope for your sake that if your dangerous lights do cause someone to have an accident due to not being able to see anything it doesn't have a family in it. Your choice if you wanna be that guy - at least you're willing to publicly announce you don't care
  6. If youre inconciderate and like blinding other road users then definately worth it =P Remember that for this reason they are not for road use and will fail an MOT. (just so you have all the information)
  7. Changing out the console bushes for something harder (there's hundreds of threads about doing it) and checking the TRE's and tie rods don't have any play in them. Also overinflated and worn tires will cause that sort of feeling on the roads at speed.
  8. alrite mate, I hope you dont mind me PM'ing you being a newbie n all!! i just came across a tread you made about the front and back spoiler skirts from ebay.

    I was wondering did you get thiese and how did they look? WHat adhesives could be used and do they just stick onto the existing bumper?

    Thanks a million,

    Colly.

  9. Recently been on a two week holiday camping and I've had the car sat with its stereo running for a good couple of hours without any noticable difference in battery strength when started - but with amps and subs you'll probably run into problems/
  10. Black or anthracite 16" standard vRS alloys will transform the car - should be able to pick a decent set up with tires for around the £200 mark
  11. Just thought i would update this as I actually managed to get round to doing this yesterday. I bought the tierods and trackrod ends from GSF for 29.99 a side (ish), got the car up onto axle stands and wheels off. Remove the clips for the rubber boot onto the steering rack and turn the steering full lock so it pokes the steering rack out as far as it can (turn the wheel the to the other side to which you are working on, also make sure the engine is running). You can just about get mole grips onto the rounded part of the ball joint housing, to get enough grip i had to really have them tight. Then a huge amount of effort and it will unscrew off. Its a normal thread, and pretty tight (took a chunk of skin off my arm on both sides when it turned) but not so tight as to be un-removable without the crowsfoot spanner or proper tie rod removal tool. Mines done 138k miles so wasn't expecting to be able to remove them but did and was able to change both of them in under an hour. Changing them has solved my high speed steering shake too which is a bonus Just for anyone else who's thinking about changing these, it is actually very doable on your driveway! Just remember to put the boot back on (could reuse the small clip, but not the large one - tie wrap it instead) and get your car tracked afterwards.
  12. My steering wheel shakes during braking too - it used to do it at any speed and got much worse when the brakes got hot (going over Snake pass sheff-manc for example!) - I changed my discs and pads and it solved the low speed shakes but i've kept the shakes above 60mph. Turns out my inner tie rods (between TRE's and the steering rack) are worn. Gonna change them today if i can get them off, and hopefully this will solve it all. Just be aware its not only the discs that can cause steering shake, so get it checked over before spending pennies
  13. I can only really see three obvious ones there: SMIC = Side Mounted Intercooler FMIC = Front Mounted Intercooler DMF = Dual Mass Flywheel SMF = Single Mass Flywheel Any others you're wondering about? ps. on the vRS the SMIC and DMF are standards.
  14. Mines the TDi Comfort, and it really a decent car. I drive about 100miles a day, 60 of those on a motorway and average 54mpg (again through mileage v actual diesel used). Mines a bit newer than yours (2003) but has 135k miles on the clock. Engine wise its never missed a beat, nothing remotely showing a problem. There's some issues with front suspension/ARB bushes which I've had replaced but this is normal for these cars. The car is plenty quick enough in town, and has enough poke on the motorway (still accelerates quite well from 70+). Also being the TDi you'll have the option of remapping it upto 130ish bhp if you want something a bit nippier (not done it myself, but plan on doing). As long as its got a full service history (at least had regular oil / cambelt changes) the engine should be fine. I'm convinced my car will fall apart before the engine gives way
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