havoc924

surely someone has heard of this issue before..?

My driver’s door speaker does not work at all these days. On my old A4 i had the same problem; it was a cable running from the car to the door card, through the rubber section between the hinges that had broken, a simple connector and the problem was fixed. Might be the same problem with my octavia, i have just not had time to look yet, but that’s where i would start.

nope...

Any fault codes? Does the car crank over properly without coughing and spluttering?

My Mk2 Octavia does this also. The reason mine does is it because air is getting into the cabin from outside. The octavia is notorious for the seal around the rear quarter light/window breaking. Mine has such a small split I can’t even see it, I know it’s there because at 80ish mph you can hear the air getting in. I have always assumed that is why it freezes up. Cost of replacement is far too high; I cure the problem with a scraper and some gloves.

So here I am again, searching for yet another solution to another problem with my MK2 Octavia TDI. I think i know what the problem is but i would really appreciate all of your inputs and suggestions. The turbo has become intermittent, sometimes it boosts and sometimes its as dead as a dodo. The only fault code coming up is 16497 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High. So, assuming that was the culprit i have replaced the sensor with a brand new one, problem persists...! I have read on a few threads there is a common fault with the wiring positioned under the airbox.Before i go un-bolting most of my engine bay i was wondering if anyone else on here has had the problem and could guide me to the problem quicker. or has anone seen a guide with some pics about this anywhere? There is also talk about the MAF sensor being responsible but i am not getting any other fault codes? Please help, i am being forced into driving like an old man on a Sunday afternoon....!

Does anyone still have the pictures for this guide..... i need to replace mine now ? Thanks

I have the exact same problem with my clutch pedal. You can actually remove the pedal without disconnecting any of the hoses but itis tricky which is why i have not done it. You will have the ball on the end ofthe rod you just cant see it because it’s clipped into the white housing, when you see it you will know why there is no chace of it braking off. I did have a look at mine when it first started happening but could not bearsed to go through all that hassle. The pedal is a nightmare to put back in. They have the same pedals as most audi's and in my old A3 the weld that holdsthe white plastic clip broke and the master cylinder rod came through the otherside leaving me stranded. It's a common problem as they are a week weld. Not a lot you can do about it without changing the pedal. Hope this helps

Does the brake pedal lift up and down slightly when youbrake? If so it could be a slightly warped disc and this can cause vibration.

Just to make eveyone aware that may have this same problem........ changing the coolant temp sensor makes absolutely no differnce. The next job is to strip appart the starter motor and re-condition it.

Thanks, when i had a look last night i noticed my interior light was intermittent, sometimes i would open the door and have no light and sometimes it would work. I am thinking about taking the door panel appart to see whats in there, might be a loose wire, corroded connection etc.

A sensor fail, thats unlike Skoda...... (Sacasm incase anyone was wondering). Strange thing is the interior light works ok when the door is open as does the door light on the dash. May i ask if those worked when your light buzzer packed up? cheers

Hiya, in the end i had the engine speed sensor replaced. Since then it has not been a problem. I was not the best job to do as the sensor on my model was behind the gearbox however the box did not have to come off completely. Hope this helps