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igbt

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    newcastle

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    fabia 1.9sdi

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  1. I've recently had a similar thing and diagnosed it as alternator worn pulley bearings. I'm in the process of swapping this out (just waiting for new part to arrive) and will do a write-up on DIY alternator pulley replacement in the next few weeks. Easiest way to diagnose is to first of all swap the belt for a new one (if it is due a replacement). If this doesn't work, take the belt off and check for any roughness or end play on the alternator and tensioner pullies.
  2. Having just completed this timing belt change as well, I thought I'd post a few further thoughts/photographs to supplement Squiddo's excellent guide. This turned out to be a fairly time consuming job but managed it in a weekend with some time to spare, having said that, it is fairly straight forward with no major hurdles encountered so I'd encourage anyone with a moderate level of experience and confidence to have a go. Rather than following the original post with my own guide, I'm just posting some further suggestions/photographs that may help other along. Glow plugs: You can remove the glow plugs to make rotating the engine a lot easier. You'll need a 10mm 1/4 inch deep reach socket or a special glow plug removal tool to get them out as they're fairly tight up against the head. Having said this, it is difficult to rotate the crank with the plugs in place but nowhere near as bad as I thought it'd be having tried it. it is actually quite useful to have the plugs in when you come to re-install the belt as it helps stop the crank from rotating accidently so there is less change of accidently mucking up the timing. Removing the cam sprocket: Having fashioned up a counter hold using a piece of metal and to bolts, it was easy enough to under the sprocket centre bolt but proved to be another thing entirely to pull the sprocket. I tried the hammer trick to start with but chickened out when the sprocket didn’t pop off after the first few attempts. Instead, I reverted to using a small (75mm) three jaw puller. It proved to be a bit of trial and error to get it to stay in place but with some perseverance you can get the three arm onto the lip on the centre of the pulley and push against the centre bolt (with the bolt undone at least a turn) Finding TDC on the crank: As noted in the original guide, it is difficult to find this mark but with a bit of perseverance, it is there. I hadn’t managed to find a picture on line of what to look for- the are some available for the TDI version of the engine but the flywheel seems to be subtly different on the SDI and of course the sketch in the Skoda engine manual isn’t much help. For a start, the teeth are more difficult to see but I found that the key is to put your head down near the battery and look in at an angle facing the engine and you’ll be able to see the teeth. The mark for TDC is a small line on the flywheel, running perpendicular to the teeth. If you can’t see it after having locked the cam in TDC, its easiest to have someone rotate the crank slowly near where TDC should be so that you can look for the mark while the flywheel is rotating. Centre timing belt cover: Having removed the engine mount, its time to remove the centre timing belt cover for which the mount attaches to. The bottom bolt is tricky to access but can be got at and loosened using a spanner. The top two bolts on the other hand were much more tricky as they are set into the cover so access is not possible with a spanner, but the clearance to the wheel arch is too small to fit in a socket. The solution is to jack up the engine slightly on this side such that you can get a socket in to loosen the two bolts. It may make you nervous jacking up the engine but as long as you don’t go further than needed to access the bolts, it should prove no problem. Tensioner: Included just for information, the tension on my old timing belt was so low that the tensioner had gone way beyond the wear indicator. Admittedly I’d left it the full 80,000 mile service interval for the belt before changing, but worrying none the less. After your installed the new tensioner and tensioned up the belt, down forget to turn the crank a couple of turns and check that the belt tension is still correct and that the timing of the crank, cam and fuel injection pump are still correct. Old tensioner (VERY loose beyond acceptable wear indicator) new tensioner (tensioned correctly) Water Pump: I include some photos as there were none in the original guide but there’s really nothing to it when changing the water pump just remove the old one, clean up the engine surface where the new one will go and install. And there you go. After reassembling, I cranked the engine and the car started straight away. I don’t have the ross-tech tool to check the timing electronically but I don’t think there is any need as long as you have rotated the engine a few times and checked that all the timing is still correct. Hopefully the above will be beneficial to the next person who attempts this, just as Squiddo’s guide was very helpful to me. Would be interested to hear from anyone else who attempts this so please post your own stories, or any questions.
  3. Great writeup, thanks for posting. Will also be trying to replace the timing belt on my SDI in the next month or so. One way to be able to rotate the crank more easily would be to remove the glow plugs so you're not compressing air in the cylinders. I'd read elsewhere that you might be able to use a pair of circlip pliers instead of the laser tensioning tool to tension the belt. Do you think this would work or is the access too limited? Am also curious to know why it was so difficult to find TDC via the flywheel inspection hole- was it that access and visibility are difficult or something else?
  4. Hi All, Have just noticed that one of my steering gaiters is leaking fluid. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the faulty seal with the steering rack on the car? Failing this, has anyone attempted a DIY steering rack replacement and can comment on the difficulty involved? Car is an 1.9SDI Thanks in advance for replies!
  5. 32mm crows foot spanner. Did this a few months ago. First tried with a set of grips to loosen the inner track rod from the steering rack but found it impossible to get decent enough grip. Was lucky enough to be able to borrow the crows foot from work which then made the whole thing a doddle. Makes it nice and easy to torque up as well on refit.
  6. Check the lambda sensor. Have had similar symptoms on previous car and it turn out to be this
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