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skodacarman

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    Octavia FL 1.9TDI PD

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Community Answers

  1. Fill the fuel tank before you leave it. Reduces the possibility of corrosion & condensation.
  2. Valid and helpful points, Superb TWM. You're right and I'm wrong - there is no fuel cut off solenoid on the Octavia. Damn! That didn't help, then. Runaway is rare, but it just shows any diesel motors can run on their own just on compression and fuel alone (often sump oil) without any help at all from any of the electric systems. My point is that the injectors or the fuel pump are not an ignition system - they don't cause the fuel/air mix to ignite. There is no ignition 'system' in a diesel. So OPs musing that it could be the ignition system isn't going to help him - he won't be able to find one on his motor. But your post will help him to consider the injectors, pump etc. Note that PD tandem fuel pumps are driven off the camshaft, not electrically. I forgot, magical solenoids are only fitted to Hogwarts diesels, and you're right, they're at least 30 years old.
  3. Not at all. In a petrol engine, the fuel/air mixture is ignited by an electrical spark. You stop them by stopping the spark. In a diesel engine, the fuel/air mixture is ignited by the heat of compression. You stop them either by cutting off the fuel (starving them), or cutting off the air (choking them). Either motor can, of course, be stopped by stalling. A diesel's glow plugs are just used to pre-heat the cylinders and make starting easier usually at a chilly 5C or lower. They have no role once the engine is running.
  4. There's no separate electrical ignition system on a diesel, that's why they keep running even after the so-called 'ignition' is turned off. They are stopped by the solenoid that cuts off the fuel supply. Like Stuart-h says, check that first.
  5. 1.9 tdi - then it's the water pump. This motor is notorious for this. You won't see any puddles or drips; it leaks inside the cam belt cover then evaporates on the engine block.
  6. Is it down on power? If so, could be an engine misfire (petrol engine?). If power is OK, might be a problem with engine mounts.
  7. If they won't go in at the required torque, I would say it is a sure sign that the threads and/or seats are fouled. Cars get put together in cleanliness conditions like an operating theater, we then have to maintain them under cow shed conditions!
  8. From Haines manual: Great care is needed when inserting plugs as tips must not contact any part of the cylinder head or they may suffer damage. You must use a torque wrench. Set torque to 15 Nm. The threads must be clean if you're reusing plugs. Do not lubricate the threads, as this will result in a wrong torque reading. Skoda insist that ECU must be checked for any stored glow plug faults. If any are found do not re-start the engine. No mention of need for hot or cold engine. Hope this helps.
  9. Check with an ECU expert that the immobilizer function/key from the original car will allow you to start and run the donor engine.
  10. Dodgy remap? Did the car come with a warranty for the remap?
  11. A faulty lead to one of the spark plugs, perhaps? Sometimes you can hear a clicking noise, or even a spark seen in darkness.
  12. Agree with Roo - it's probably a wiring fault, with the feed being taken incorrectly from an 'ignition on only' point in the loom. Hazard lights fitted but not working properly is an MoT failure. For safety, correct operation means they must work with the ignition off. Good luck with tracing it.
  13. Hesitation could be due to a blocked fuel filter.
  14. Could be a tyre carcass failing. Watch for any bulges appearing in the sidewall. Sometimes they can delaminate from the inside out, or a bump might be appearing on the inside wall that you won't see.
  15. Is that 'D' shaped outline with the lines of dashes cut in it some sort of sound deadening material stuck to the floor pan? The stain could be the adhesive used to stick it to the floor weeping through the paint. Not a serious problem, I would have thought. A quick spray of silver paint ought to cover it.
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