sabredylan

Sorry not been on the site for a long time. I couldn't believe this thread was still alive. For anyone wishing to stiffen/strengthen chassis for improved handling, take a look at Ultra Racing products. Their stuff is available through ebay at a reasonable price and shipping. Follow the below link to have a look at the products available. Golf 4 for Octi Mk 1 and Golf 5 for Octi Mk 2. http://www.ultraracing.com.my/template.asp?menuid=56

Turbo should reach full boost by 4200. It might be a little earlier with the Tial housing though.

Turbine outlet is 3", the turbine wheel is 60mm

Built bottom end with pauters and pistons. Built head with the usual supertech valves etc, but kept the cams standard. All vac cr*p removed sai, evap etc. 3" straight through exhaust and decat by Blueflame. Going with a 630cc mafless file from Eurodyne Tapp. I'll be happy with 380bhp at the wheels, being optimistic.

Upgrade time again!!!! Just received some pics of the manifold I'm having fabricated so I thought I'd share them with you. New turbo is a GT3076r with .63 Tial Vband turbine housing.

VWvortex Forums: Scat rods - anyone used em on 1.8T? I liked the term "made in china cr^p"

Steve, unless you've already purchased the rods, I'd go with riffle drilled pauters. Scats and other H beam rods have no provision for oiling the small end bearings, resulting in wrist pin rattle off load. They just rely on oil splash. I had some fitted to mine initially and it knocked badly at idle. I swapped to pauter drilled and it was silk. The pauter drilled are very similar to oem, but mega strong. OEM rods oil the wrist pins for a reason, to prevent rattle.

Steve, Have a look at AEM stuff. As my Gran would say "You buy cheap, you buy twice!" lol:D

If you need any bigger injectors, I've got some 550cc Genesis I'll part with. These are one of the best injectors on the market oem spray pattern. Good for idle, pull less timing and better EGT's. Let me know if you ar interested

Check all hoses for rips, especially under the intake manifold. Try some injector cleaner in your tank. Unplug the maf sensor, if it idles better thats knackered. If it makes no difference give it a clean. Clean the Maf and intake air temp sensor with electical cleaner. Change your water temp sensor if you notice any fluctuation on the temp gauge, they are not expensive. Most important check your timing belt tension, it may be ready for a new one. If the tensioner on the belt is on its way out it will have a dodgy idle, hesitate, be down on power and may lead to big bucks if it fails.

I wouldn't big turbo any front wheel drive Octy again. I've considered buying a 4x4 Octy so many times its un true. The idea of big power is very attractive, but you'll never have a minutes peace. There is always something breaking like Des says and I think Eddie's had slightly more than a hose pop off. If you are detemined to do it, go to a good tuner and drive their demo car. Don't forget that APR have right hand drive kits available now to fit yourself. Probably one of the most reliable and well researched kits out there. Also remember the running costs, more oil changes and my car will average 6 mpg when giving it the beans.

It was $35 dollars including postage to the UK. I got the universal tester, with a tyre valve, as I dont have a compressor.

Speak to James / Kev at JBS Autodesigns, they will be able to help with fine detail especially if you buy the software from them.

My Octy Vrs has been runing bad for a while now, boost issues and idle dropping out etc. I suspected I had a air leak somewhere but after checking absolutely everything, I was stumped. I finally found this brilliant bit of kit from Boostpro.net : Specializing in performance, costing approximately £15 posted from the states. All you do is remove your MAF and place the tester in the tip and tighten the clip back up. Pressure the intake to about 7 - 10 psi and presto all leaks can be heard. I found the orange plastic dip stick tube to be leaking at the base (vac leak), the oil filler cap leaking (vac leak) and the threads of the side input port of my Forge DV leaking(boost/vac leak). I would never have found any of these without it. Result....... Car running great again now the leaks are fixed. For the price, its worth having in your tool box. Can be ordered with tyre valve or air hose connector.

No it was doing it before. I fitted the bushes thinking it would cure it, but its not. I thought there might be a few people on here who had come across the problem. I've searched on the subject but can't find any answers.