MarkPIX

I adjusted my actuator yesterday, I just have to log it again now to see what it's doing. I got at it from the bottom but this time I popped the little c clip off and managed to lengthen the rod after shortening it first. :peek: To lengthen you need to turn clockwise from underneath as I found out going anti clockwise first which was much easier to turn that way. I managed to get the rod back to the same distance from the lock nut and then lengthened by about 2 turns. I also used a normal 10mm spanner to undo the locknut and could then adjust with my fingers as it's a fresh turbo. I tied some cable wrap you get from new electrical cables around the c clip before putting it back on and tied the other end to the pipe as pictured so I don't loose it if I have to adjust the rod again. I also changed my lower boost pipe at the same time because since having the turbo fitted i've had a slight boost leak (I can hear it when opening throttle). I thought it might have been the standard turbo coupler so changed it for a darkside coupler which is a much tighter fit but still experiencing a leak. I had my turbo clocked when it was fitted, is it possible for it to leak from the turbo housing after being clocked? It's just that I never had the boost leak before changing the turbo and thought it might've been the coupler. The ash aluminium hoses I ordered off ebay both the top 45° and bottom 90° boost pipes are only 150mm leg lengths and were both short so had to add 3" onto both pipes on one end. Pancake pipe vs 90° 150mm leg length ash pipe: Lower boost pipe once fitted:

sorry, forgot to mention I have one of xmans 'high spec' hybrid turbos (250) on.

So with vac pressure on actuator it's easier to adjust rod length also without removing c clip? I had a look at the weekend from underneath and can't really see the c clip towards the top so didn't really want to try and remove it. Is it easier to access from the top? To access from the top is removing the intake manifold required? Thanks.

Sorry I should've said. Yes i'm after the coupler that fits directly into the turbo. Any ideas on the size? Cheers.

That's great thanks! I'll use this when I do mine.. I gave up looking for a grommet so was just going to drill my own.

As we're on the lower boost pipe topic i'm currently ordering parts to change mine and want to know what size the turbo coupler is (this part: http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/clip-connector-adapters-for-egr-asv-turbo-intercooler.html) I've seen this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-TDI-FSiT-ALLOY-BAYONET-BOOST-HOSE-INTERCOOLER-HOSE-COUPLER-/321798940693?var=&hash=item4aecb62815:m:mc9xL8omJXsmKcBmTQB-9jA on ebay half the price of darkside and just wanted to know wether it's 50-51mm or 60-51mm? It looks like 50-51mm from pics on here but just want confirmation before ordering. I'll also order a rubber o ring too as the ebay pic doesn't seem to have one. Thanks.

If you want it to go straight through the driver's side you'll have to drill a hole and use your own grommet like i'll be doing pretty soon. Otherwise it's across the engine bay to the passenger side and back again.

I had 4 of these fitted earlier this year with a rarb and the car was transformed (rarb makes the biggest difference). The grip on these are immense in the dry and very good in the wet too.

I changed my head bolts to pd150's 1 at a time earlier but I only tightened to 60nm followed by 2 90degree turns. Searched everywhere and only 60nm - 2 90 degree turns come up. Is it really 90nm?

Ill be replacing my head bolts for pd 150's one at a time soon. Just to clarify torque upto 60nm then 2 90 deree turns aftwerwards? Thanks.

My car has passed 2 MOT's without them now. When I put 312's and 256's on my standard covers didn't fit and never bothered replacing them for bigger ones.

Has anyone else got a forge fmic and changed their top boost pipe to connect upto it? I have just replaced my plastic top boost pipe with a 51mm od 45° aluminium pipe with 150mm legs and swaged ends to match upto my forge fmic. When I connected the 45° silicone hose from the top boost pipe to the aluminium bend with the MAP sensor attached to it and the 90° silicone bend on the other side, I had to clamp them on at full stretch (with minimum hose clamped on). I am not really happy with it and would like to sort it out as I feel they will pop off in the future. I've not heard anyone else with this problem and setup with the materials you can buy off ebay so have I done anything wrong? I'll have to try and find a longer top boost pipe if not. Help appreciated, thanks.

What leg length is your 90° pipe after cutting it down? I want to order a 90° ally pipe with 300mm leg length either side, chop it down and put a swage back on it whilst at work. (I won't be fitting the pipework at work so would like the pipe prepped before hand). Also what intercooler does your 45° silicone hose couple upto? Without jacking my car up i'm not sure what silicone bend I need to couple upto my forge fmic. Cheers.

Looking very nice Alex! I could do with a respray on my spoiler but might just wrap as cba with the hassle of removing it..

SOLD.