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notyeti

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    SO24 9TH

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    Yeti 1.2 SE DSG

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  1. Return the car sounds right. I took my yeti in to a local independent garage twice to get the leak fixed. Flooded passenger floor. First time they replaced the door trim (???} And charged me £100. I told them it was probably the roof..,. Pressure tested - no leak... Got home, and nature got in without any trouble. Took it back. Second time they spent three days taking the roof apart, couldn't find any leak, put it all back together, pressure test negative again. Surprisingly, it got through 18 months with no leaking. Goodness knows why. Now it is leaking loads again. I am going to try sealing the roof with insulating tape during the training season. Meanwhile I put a large towel on the floor, and change it after every downpour. It's the pits.
  2. I did some tests too. Same result, doors will only lock if the drivers door is closed. All the closed doors lock. There is a clonk as they lock. I tried with the drivers door closed and boot open, the lights flashed when the boot closed and locked. I thought I was being methodical when I started the test - but I didn't think about two doors being open, What happens then? Do the lights only flash when both doors are closed? Also I wasn't patient enough to test the time delay. My guess it is 15 seconds - then what happens? Do all the doors unlock, or does the finally closed door still lock, or does it close and stay unlocked? (why 15 seconds? That is how long you get after pressing the remote to to unlock the doors before opening a door. It might just play a role in locking too - who knows?) No clonk if the drivers door open when lock is pressed, so that is some feedback that nothing locked. I was concerned about locking keys in the car, done this twice, both times in the US. Perhaps cars in the US are set up differently? I seem to recall they are often set up to require a double press to unlock all the doors, more often not the default option in the UK. Both times Fairly disastrous. Once with a 5 year locked in, and all the emergency hooters going off. (I think we managed to get him to crawl into the boot and pull the hostage release lever!) Once to a hertz hire car with the engine running (only one set of keys of course), took about an hour to get assistance from a locksmith. Should be an interlock between running engine and key initiated locking? I did two experiments. Left one pair of keys in the boot, and locked with the other, with the boot open, and then closed the boot. (you know, get out, close the drivers door, open the boot, put the keys down for some reason, and then close the boot forgetting about the keys). SO the other test, I used the same keys, and tossed them into the open boot. Result, car locked both times. Keys locked in the car.Luckily a different set of keys can unlock the car. My conclusion,: car companies need to employ dumber designers, who get things wrong 🙂
  3. Surely, the doors can't actually lock until they are closed, and then when they are closed the car will signal the doors are locked. On my ancient yeti, pressing the remote lock with the doors open does exactly that. One can potentially lock the keys in the car because of the delay. It would be nice to know that the remote lock had been pressed, though personally I would prefer the remote lock not to work unless the doors are closed. Perhaps it is an option? Perhaps on the Karoq there is a signal from the car that the car has received a lock request, which is in addition to the car signalling when the doors lock. The signals would have to be different, or there would be no point in having both.
  4. Same problem, 2012 yeti with sunroof. I found putting a bathtowel in the floteell and jumping up and down on it extracted a lot of water too. I went through a lot of towels before the stopped soaking up water. The windscreen is still misting up overnight, but less and less. I made the mistake of opening the sunroof to air the car. Lots of groaning from it, and then it stuck in the tilt position getting it closed. Looked in our invaluable forum, and found the advice to look at page 40 of the handbook. It explains how to invoke the emergency override to close the sunroof when the safety switch cute out the motor. It worked. I figured the water in the passenger footwell must have come through the sunroof. Nothing on the drivers side though.
  5. Those up and down mpg results, why so variable? I have a 2011 1.2 TSI DSG, and get between 38 - 42 MPG full to full. Most trips are about 7 miles, typically with no or one passenger. I do 40 mpg on long motorway cruises at 70mph, which is surprising for a four wheeled brick. I think due to good surfaces, and a continuous drafting effect. Rain, cold, heavy load, wellie and a lot of stop-start bring it down markedly, though I never see less than 35 mpg after a few miles of warm up. It loves a gentle 45mph on rural roads, where is will get 47 mpg.
  6. Something clearly not right imho. Even when new I got 34/35 mpg on my 1.2 TSI DSG yeti, and by 10,000 miles was in the 38-40 range. I average out at about 39-40, with mainly 7 mile trips into town. Long motorway trips (400 mile each way) at 70mph I am getting 41. measure by fuel tank full to fuel tank full using gps mileage or from the speedo. Gearchanges to me seem to take place as I would expect. Doesn't change down until it needs to. Takes 70mph uphill m6 at shap in 5th.
  7. I have a 1.2 DSG. It's take off is always harsh, to the extent that if the front wheels are not straight ahead it is quite likely to engage traction control if the start is a turn up a hill accompanied by much buck and judder. This makes me wonder if the "push into seat" isn't more a matter of the driving style rather than the throttle response. I would engage the clutch on a manual more gently, to get a smoother drive.
  8. I do about 8000 mile/year with a 1.2 TSI yeti. My plugs and leads failed at 38,000 - and it was more like push home rather than limp home mode as a result. Traumatic. I was on a variable service, and the plugs should have been replaced after 4 years or 40000, as I hadn't reached the 40000, they weren't replaced and I didn't get an advisory about the 4 year limit from the service interval warning. Skoda ended up giving me a £50 credit for the confusion about when to replace the plugs. So my advice is fork out for new plugs and leads now and avoid the risk iof a bigger bill and inconvenience!
  9. notyeti

    2011 model

    Check front brake pads - mine disintegrated gradually and need replacement after 30000 miles. (chemical damage cited). I could hear a grating sound and slightly jerky braking.
  10. I bought a Honda Jazz hybrid from Motorpoint. The car has been excellent. I liked the straightforward no haggle WYSIWYG approach. Nothing is more painful to me than dealing with slippery car salesmen!
  11. Thanks for your ideas. I have followed Skoda's suggestion and unplugged the sat nav, and switched the radio off before turning the ignition off and removing the key. No bongs so far. But the battery is probably well charged at the moment. So either the different switch off procedure or the well charged battery could be keeping the bongs at bay. I am leaving the battery in until it fails hoping to find out if it fails without any bongs. If it does then the bongs are unconnected to the battery. If it does bong, then I will still be in the dark. It puzzles me why I can't find out what sensors and/or computer program condition should cause the bong.
  12. I need some help with diagnosing a warning bong. I have noticed recently that sometimes before I take yeti for its first run of the day, that it is bonging to itself as I approach the car. Starts fine, bong goes when I drive off. It never bongs twice on the same day. It loves attention, apparently. My searches of the internet made me think this was some kind of low temperature warning. But now I don't think this is the case. Yesterday evening, having not driven it for a week it was bonging away, and wouldn't start. Lights and all were quite bright, but the starter motor just clicked, and random scarily expensive warnings displayed. I plugged it into a charger all night, and it started, but left the ESP and ABS warnings on. They disappeared after less than a minute. Reading the manual, this is expected behaviour after a battery disconnection. So that is probably the reason it didn't start. Nothing sinister. So I thought, perhaps the bong is a low battery warning. Nothing I could find in the manual about the bong, but there are some posts here pointing to that. I rang up Skoda customer service, who were helpful, but could not diagnose it. They are going to check with me again in a week. They did not say, "Yes the bong is a low battery warning". Instead after talking to their technicians, and putting me through a few routines of walking up to the car and seeing if I was doing anything strange, we arrived at the hypothesis that the bong is a warning something is left switched on, but that doesn't start bonging immediately. So for example, I normally leave the sat nav off, but plugged into the cigarette lighter (red led glowing) and the radio on, but turn everything off by taking the key out. Perhaps the small drain on the USB, plus a dicky battery is detected after a while, and the drain causes the bong?. The technicians say the bong means something is left on, but it is not immediately triggered in all cases. I checked that no bong started immediately I left the car. Now I am going to try different shutting down procedures when I leave the car overnight. But it all may be battery dependent too. Tricky. I was surprised the battery drained after a week (5 years old battery, so could be), so the current drain sounds a good guess. But I have been driving much less in the last few weeks, and this weekend was cold, damp, and very windy (car in hampshire), that may have accelerated the battery drain? So the matter is by no means settled - any if it is a drain, how to identify it? Perhaps to do with the wet winter, and it is a short somewhere? Any ideas?
  13. Well final judgement from skoda customer services. Variable servicing means every 2 years or sooner if car indicates earlier Car indication "Servicing required in xxx miles, xx days" means oil change required Since remedial work not done in skoda dealer can't offer any discount - instead offered £50 coupon ex gratia to be used in accredited skoda service garage, which I accepted My problem was having first variable service after 1 year - so next came after 3 years. So now out of step. My view is skoda have mangled the english language (variable = every two years or earlier), service = oil change, and could easily have built the time constraint into the service indication on the car. Plus the dealership should have been clear about when servicing was due, and in its reminders known whether the car was on variable or fixed, and given advice accordingly. I asked for variable servicing when I bought the car. I think the dealership sent me a fixed reminder after 1 year, then we had a discussion that I wanted fixed, and then the next service at 3 years was out of step. Not impressed by the whole saga. They could definitely do better!
  14. Snap, mine too last week. Mechanic was convinced it was the spark plugs which in turn affected the leads. Replaced both. Perhaps in my case they were both worn out.
  15. So, just oil changes. Not services. It doesn't say "oil change due" on the instrument dial. It says "service due". Misrepresentation?
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