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dmz

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    Male
  • Location
    Wolverhampton

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  • Model
    1.2TSI Monte Carlo (61)

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  1. Not recently, it had a tank of poor petrol in & ran a bit lumpy. After that it got a dose of redex in that seemed to cure the lumpiness. Might that be the cause? If so.. Interesting..
  2. Brilliant thanks GoneOffSki Just wanted to check with the community before bunging it in. Tell you what, the sparks looked a funny colour when I got them out (insulator near tip had a red coloration to it) used to chocolate brown rather than this...but never had iridiums in before.
  3. Hi Folks, Our Monte (1.2TSI, 105ps) is due its annual work, so got all the bits ordered from eurocarparts and have made a start. Noticed that I had ordered the Shell ECT C2/C3 0w30 vw504 spec oil rather than the vw502 spec... Car is on fixed service times, does 6k per year, so it hits the date each time rather than miles. From what I have read, VW504 is higher spec, so more expensive, but since I've got it and don't fancy another trip out unless I need to Is there any harm in using the VW504 spec oil in it versus having the VW502 spec? Assuming its going to get changed in next 12mo/10k anyway, is it going to be better for it/trash the engine? Any help is appreciated Dmz
  4. Nice one ☺ must be different panel layout to the fabia then, as mine went straight into headliner and no visible wires with trim panel off. The breaking of boot vs door might possibly be due to size / angle of bend? Tailgate bend might be sharper than door (it is on the fabia, albeit not much)
  5. It was a 3rd party kit from SenCom, approx £35 +ship from Germany, apparently very few fail according to dealer when I asked.
  6. Hi Bryan, same issue I had, the issue is the car side of the rubber boot is all gummed up with binding tape so its a pain to get access. To resplice the whole lot means taking the headliner out which is a big job apparently, so I settled for splitting the boot virtually end to end, butt-crimping the broken wire both ends to a longer piece in the middle & feeding the longer wire into the space boot side so its got a bit more give in it. Skoda repair manuals recommend crimping rather than soldering in loom repair cos of the movement & vibration that can crack solder joints. (correct me if this is wrong, it's only from what I've read around the net lol) The repair kit I found seems to no longer be available which is annoying, since as you say this is a temp measure. Alternative would be buy the whole rear loom from a dealer (approx £120 when I asked) and cut the bit out you need & splice, since the join is about halfway down the side of the car, it will mean re feeding the boot wiring but it's less of a bodge.
  7. £250 all in for new loom from dealer, not too bad given the amount of work. Apparently very few fail, but that's a bit costly for me atm... After cutting mine open the it looks a bit nasty, it's broken just after their binding fluff, one totally gone, one on its way. So I'm thinking design flaw/unlucky bit of wiring. 5 minutes with some splicing crimps and all is well again, but it's not gonna last forever. Just need to glue the boot back together again. If dealer/indy repair isn't an option then this is a cheap fix if you can face cutting open the rubber boot. Any news from SUK?
  8. It's understandable why is gone, copper only withstands so many flexes. Interestingly there is a repair kit for the 6y variant ggl: SenCom® 8882310 Wonder if vag do a kit for the 5j variant... Repair wouldn't be too bad if it didn't involve removing the headliner & repulling wires thru the boot framework, simple enough but time consuming.
  9. Same issue here with lock failure on my 08 fab Estate, one wire totally snapped that I can see in the rubber tubing, unknown if any others have gone at this point. Going to get some quotes for repair, but I'm willing to add my 2 penneth if it helps with SUK, this shouldn't fail but I suppose that it depends on how often the tailgate is used.
  10. Hi folks, Lovely electrical problem here that I could do with some help with please [emoji3] The tailgate lock on my Estate decided to stop working at the most inopportune time (middle of a torrential storm in Scotland lol) In a nutshell, the soft release on the boot itself doesn't work, nor the remote fob (but indicators flash with fob, so it's getting the request) I've had the back if the boot off to see what's going on, nothing obvious wrong...no leaks or obvious corrosion on the switch. Vcds scan didn't show any fault codes related to it, measuring blocks show that the boot switch is working, output tests on the cent electrics don't seem to error on it but the boot doesn't operate. The boot light comes on if I open it manually with the lever on the lock (no cable release) so it's getting some signal. Bought a new locking mechanism and tried it out, no change but least I've got a spare now lol. Here's the odd thing, after reconnecting and wiggling of wires it seems to work a few times then stops, then doesn't work regardless of wiggling. Can't seem to replicate this again now though. Anyone got any ideas? I'm happy poking around with a multimeter if I know where to put it. Dmz
  11. According to the panel fuse 15 patched was patched to fuse 47. Soon as it was bridged heard the relays triggering under the dash. I'll try just a straight 12v wire from 15 tonight, see if it does the same without trying to patch it into the regular 12v socket circuit. Had a mild moment of panic when I saw those words lol [emoji28]
  12. Interesting update, bridging the what would be 12v navigation fuse to standard 12v accessory socket fuse caused instrument cluster to flash 'immobiliser active' and flash glow plug lamp. Car started after removing mod, so let's see how it is in the morning.... Odd...
  13. Cheers! Was wondering if there would be load issues since the constant load fuses were bigger, but I won't be drawing much tbh. I'll be getting that wired in then when I get 20 mins.
  14. Hi everyone, I reckon this has been done to death but just want to check something. Been poking around with the multimeter and have found unpopulated mini fuses 14 (cornering lights?) and 15 (navigation) seem to be ignition switched. This is to run 2 dash cams (front & rear) so nothing too heavy on load. Would there be any issues with running a constant load off of one of these fuses vs a full size one? Got a mini fuse breakout lead so no extra hacking in required. Thanks again!
  15. Right, final update then Just fitted new clutch switch, like a muppet didn't take the lower dash off, so was playing contortionist... Came out easy enough but getting new one back in was fun. New revision switch looks a lot more substantial which is good. All checks out OK on vcds, cruise control back working again, and there is no longer the stutter as I lift off the throttle. Job done! Thanks for those who commented, the input is appreciated Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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