YHNW

The £10 ones will let you read codes only, no good for anything else.

It's unlikely to have jumped teeth as the engine would barely run if at all with the timing so far out. However you'll need to replace the timing belt as it is now damaged. You'll need to ask whoever changed your sensor if they've been messing with the timing belt cover! Not me guv...

The camshaft locking tool (you have to loosen the cam pulley to get the belt on) and the pin to lock the injection pump are a must have when doing these belts. The £10 scanners don't let you set timing but there are some about (i think called VAG109 or similar) that go for around £40, it's a chinese copy of the lead and it's an older copy of VCDS that cannot be updated. I have one of these and it works fine, can access everything and do the TDI timing no problem.

Out of interest how many miles has the engine done? How many miles since you last changed the oil?

Hi. I have some problems with my injectors being worn. I have had one injector refurbed as it was missing on that cylinder and smoking badly, now the engine runs better but there is still smoke but less of it. So now my attention turns to the other three..and I'm keen to avoid the expense of a diesel shop refurb. My question is this, when the diesel shop refurbed my injector they got a nozzle repair kit which also seems to include the offset bushing, as he gave my old one back. I intend to buy new nozzles for the other three and swap them myself but I notice the nozzles do not come with the offset bushing. Does the offset bushing wear out? I'm worried I'll swap to new nozzles and then find I have another worn offset bushing, but won't be able to buy the offset bushing with out having to buy a full nozzle repair kit!! I would buy a full nozzle repair kit in the first place but the only one I can find on the web is the same price as getting it refurbed at the shop.

My CEL light doesn't come on with the ignition either. Have no idea why. Anyone know if it is an easy job to get to the back of the cluster?

I have the same problem. It is to do with the engine needing to get to 240rpm before it will start when the coolant is above a certain temp. If you unplug the temp sensor (which then disables the glow plug circuit) and start it when the engine is warm you'll find it fires straight away. The problem seems to stem from a weak battery combined with a slightly worn starter motor, dirty earths etc and then the problem gets worse as the starter starts to crank more, wearing even more. Try googling TDI hot start problem, it's very common. There's a wiring mod called the Hamman mod which can overcome this problem. Otherwise it's recommended you get a new battery and starter motor, which is a bit expensive.

Also what should the EGR be reading straight off from a cold start? 60% seems a lot.

I checked and the timing was done in basic settings. I can't find anything unusual in the readings, have disconnected the MAF, no difference in running, same with the CTS However, when idling the inj quanties on cyl 1 seemed notably different to the other three: 1.88 -0.52 -0.89 -0.49 Could this be my problem? Also removing the MAF and CTS brought an error code each one, however nothing for the glowplug relay...is this as it should be? cheers!

ok I tried removing the CTS - made no difference. Tried removing the MAF made no difference - however readings are on VCDS anyway. These are the only error codes that I got from those actions: 2 Faults Found 17552 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Open or Short to Ground P1144 - 35-00 - - 17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus P1256 - 35-00 - - Nothing about glowplug relay - is this as it should be? The MAF reading is what it should be...the EGR is around the 60% mark from starting. These are the inj quantities - cyl 1 is notably different to the other 3? Cyl 1 Cyl 2 Cyl 3 Cyl 4 TIME STAMP mg/str mg/str mg/str mg/str 0 1.88 -0.52 -0.89 -0.49 0.36 1.86 -0.47 -0.89 -0.47 0.72 1.86 -0.47 -0.92 -0.47 1.07 1.88 -0.52 -0.92 -0.47 1.42 1.88 -0.52 -0.89 -0.47 1.78 1.86 -0.49 -0.92 -0.45 2.14 1.88 -0.52 -0.92 -0.45 2.5 1.88 -0.52 -0.92 -0.47 2.86 1.88 -0.52 -0.89 -0.45 3.22 1.88 -0.52 -0.87 -0.42 3.58 1.88 -0.54 -0.87 -0.45 3.94 1.88 -0.59 -0.85 -0.47 4.3 1.88 -0.64 -0.8 -0.49 4.66 1.88 -0.71 -0.71 -0.52 5.01 1.88 -0.75 -0.61 -0.52 5.37 1.88 -0.8 -0.54 -0.56 5.73 1.88 -0.87 -0.47 -0.59 6.08 1.88 -0.94 -0.38 -0.61 6.44 1.88 -0.99 -0.31 -0.64 6.79 1.88 -1.04 -0.24 -0.66 7.14 1.88 -1.08 -0.19 -0.68 7.5 1.88 -1.11 -0.09 -0.71 7.86 1.88 -1.15 -0.09 -0.71 8.22 1.88 -1.13 -0.09 -0.71 8.58 1.88 -1.06 -0.14 -0.68 8.94 1.88 -0.99 -0.16 -0.68 9.29 1.88 -0.96 -0.21 -0.68 9.64 1.88 -0.94 -0.26 -0.66 10 1.88 -0.92 -0.31 -0.66 10.36 1.88 -0.89 -0.33 -0.68 10.7 1.88 -0.85 -0.38 -0.68 11.04 1.88 -0.8 -0.4 -0.68 11.41 1.88 -0.78 -0.4 -0.68

Actually thinking about it, it is through the 'basic settings 04' that I get to the timing graph. So yes it has been timed with the pump in basic setting.

Right I'll check that this eve - many thanks.

I agree it feels like timing is out when cold. Not sure about the pump being in basic mode...how do I do that? I could only get the temp up to 80 due to it being 0degs out side at the time. I checked the 80deg box and the timing is advanced slightly over the ideal. The car was idling smoothly.

grey/white

Thanks for that. The problem I am trying to solve is rough running from cold, lots of smoke, as if timing is out. Runs fine when warmed up. Timing is bang on via VCDS, coolant sensor is showing correct temps when cold. No Fault codes at all. Next stop is glow plugs & MAF.