Malawi

I've been having the same problem with my Superb for some time. Tried taking it all the way to the front and then to the back, but that did not help. But after reading this thread, and the thread at the other forum, I got it working (thanks folks). :-) I did this with ignition on, but engine not running(one push at start button without foot on brake). First I maxed the seat upwards/forwards, (seat all up and forward, and the seat-back tilted all the way forward) Then I maxed the seat all the way down before maxing it all the way to the back, and got the magical two bongs! I was going to tilt the seat-back all the way back as well, but I think it would have been enough to only move the seat itself to it's max-backwards position.

I am starting to see similar problems on my 2012 Superb. Does anyone know the part-number and/or if it's possible to get a non-oem part with better wiring online?

Forgot to come back to this issue. It was fixed after several attempts. Turned out there was an (non critical)error message from an unrelated engine-pump that had to be cleared before the ad-blue system would consider resetting.* A couple of days later it asked for more adblue. My driver topped it off with 1.5 liters(all it would take) but the message did not go away and the car had to go back to the dealer. It went quicker that time, but this time they had to remove 1.5 liters of ad-blue in the system(?) and do a simple reset. I guess they had been in contact with someone with better knowledge about the system. They advised me to never fill ad-blue unless the car asks for it. When it asks for the ad-blue, it should be filled up** (no half/partial filling) and then you do the reset thing where you turn on the car without the engine and wait for 1/2 min for a confirmation message. Apparently it might first have started because my driver who was used to the system Mercedes uses, where there is no gauge(only a dipstick) and important to keep the ad-blue topped off at all times. When he started driving for me, the car had been in service for about 3 months by another driver who had never topped up the ad-blue, apparently this is the right way to do it with VAG's system. *My take from this is that one might be careful about buying a used Superb with ad-blue if the system is so sensitive and everything have to be in working order at all times. Might be some beginner errors from the workshop. But I would think twice about buying a clunker where everything in the engine have to be top-notch or the car might refuse to start one day. **Be advised that some diesel pumps also have an ad-blue pump. It's a LOT cheaper than buying it bottled from a car-supply shop (1/2 price of diesel vs £10-15 for a couple of liters). There is an added bonus of not having to worry about where you put your ad-blue the last time you topped it up. Not all pumps have ad-blue, if it's not at your local station, look for a station that cater to trucks/lorries. Know where you can fill it before you need it to reduce stress. If you live in a rural area with no ad-blue stations, you should buy a 10L bottle on-line or from a shop dealing with tractors and such, should set you back about £10. Other stuff about ad-blue: In earlier models of cars/trucks pure water could be used instead of ad-blue, it would not reduce emissions, but the system would not detect the difference and the water should not do any damage. This lead to some new regulations for engines with ad-blue. In the Superb it does some checks to verify that it's ad-blue, I think this is the root of the hassle with not being able to just top up as you go. Ad-blue is highly corrosive, so clean if of with water (water soluble, it's basically synthetic urine) if you get spill when filling the tank. Ad-blue apparently "creeps", so if you spill it close to something that can rust, you should still clean it off as it will move along any surface. Both the last points mean that you really dont want a leaking ad-blue system. Edit: Some weird wording. ;-)

I have a simmilar issue. The car is on it's third day at the dealer right now. Seems like the adblue-system is a cluster****.

I am in the process of buying a new Superb. Was told by the seller that my old rims would not fit because the offset is changed to accommodate wider rims/tires. AFAIK it can use 17-19" rims. Since I am going to use it as a Taxi, I don't really want the 18" L&K rims, but will look for some 17" (Smallest possible diameter to get max profile.). Will try remember checking up the complete. Brochure says 7.0Jx17"/ 7.0Jx18"- whatever that means. Seems like it's the offset. Guess I also have to remember asking weather they use those ****y wheel-mounted pressure gauges, or if they use the same kind of pressure-monitoring as the prev. model.

I have gotten some weird light-related error-messages on my Superb. Turns out it was due to the led's in the mirror. A few of them don't come on, and it registers as if there is problems with the main light at that side.

My 2c - I'we got a Superb 4x4 from 2012 that is used as a taxi. It has clocked about 275.000 km without any mayor problems. It did have a weird electrical problem that eventually got solved by basically rebooting the car. The electric boot just gave in as the opening-motors were not that good to begin with. But the latest revision is supposed to be a lot better. The automatic gearbox seemed to become a little "rough" not long ago, but an oil-flushing seems to have fixed that. Any 4x4 will use more fuel than a 2x2, but I think the difference is quite small with haldex. There is also another downside, and that is that you need to exchange the haldex-oil every other service(extra cost). All said and done, I would have gotten a 2x2 if I had lived where you live. But the 4x4 together with proper winter tires makes it unstoppable. One of my drivers catched up with a gritting-truck on it'w way up a fairly steep hill in winter-conditions. The truck-driver was outside the truck throwing grit in front of it, while my driver could just wizz past him up the hill to the passengers address.

I'm also having similar problems with my 2012 estate. I use an independent workshop as the warranty is out. After resetting the error-messages they had the boot opening and closing just fine. But when I collected it, it would only open properly. When closing it would only go 1-2 cm before stopping. Mechanic thinks it's the safety-sensor that's the problem(an optical stepper-motor-sensor(similar to those in old computer mouses) I assume) -only motor #2 seems to be affected. Is this something I can get to and see if I might be able to clean it out? Anyone know where I might get the part at a decent price if it needs changing(I assume the part would be the whole trut)?

Looks nice. Are all of those bulbs "safe" to use without messing up the bulb-sensors? I would like to change bulbs, but I don't want unfounded warnings from the car. :-)

After what it said on the statement from the dealer, the radiator is from Mondine(?) I ended up getting it locally but trough Hella. Did cost me just over £200 If I had bought trough your link, it would have been £127 + 32 (VAT)+ 20(Customs fee) = 179.- Not a big difference. :-) I just got a new alternator that did cost me about £530 (£430 if they could keep the old one), and I am pretty sure I could have saved quite a bit on that one. I am going to open it and change brushes and possibly the slip-ring depending on my findings(Less than £19 and thus no VAT/fee). Cannot hurt to have a spare lying around, and I can always sell it if I don't need it. :-) Edit: I am thinking of doing something like what Kenny R's link suggests. Although I hope to be able to use plastic-mesh behind the grille.

Pretty sure it was turned on, the one touch thing worked for all other windows then the drivers window all the time. BTW: KESSY have been acting up for some time, I had to open/close the car with the fob and the car would say it did not find the key/KESSY faulty(but start anyways). After I got a new alternator it works as it should. My guess it that the reason is that the battery have been disconnected and that it got fixed in the reboot when it got back power.

Is disassembly wedge a tool? My guess is that the problem is not to find out what screws to loosen under the cover, but how to remove the cover itself.

I have to add that I tried reproducing it after I wrote the message, but could not reproduce the modus-change. Might have been something else I did. I was fiddling with the windows (it's really hot here right now.) and somehow the auto-open/closing of the drivers door got turned off. Tried it a few times with no change, but after closing it and keeping the button in closing position a few seconds, it was back to normal.

Discovered by accident today - If you push down and hold the window-button, the one push full close/open will be disabled. To enable again, pull up and hold the button. Works with individual windows, most likely only from buttons at drivers door.

Should I be OK updating to v11 with theese numbers ? Delivery Part number - 3t0035680c Hardware version - H60 Software Version - 3984 Active map coverage - west europe Active map supplier - Navteq Map version HDD - 7551 The HD is 30GB