napalmdaz

Thanks guys. New knock sensor arrived in the post today but that will have to wait until the weekend for fitting. When I got the new engine the first thing I changed was the thermostat and sensor as the old one was broken - it gets up to temperature relatively quickly now and is echoed on the dash and via OBD readout to Torque Android app. I now need to buy a torque wrench!

Bump

Ok guys, new engine is in and it runs sweet. Much quieter than the old one. New filters and oil. It's also not using water any more so I guess the head gasket was also on its way out on the old engine as it had always needed topping up periodically. The problem I now have is that it drinks fuel unless running closed loop, i.e. on steady cruise. I can see the instant MPG from an aftermarket gauge I have from the injector PWM and on cruise it is ok, but under slight load and acceleration it seems like the enrichment has gone to maximum! It also feels like it is pulling timing as acceleration is dreadful, flat and dead - these were always quite torquey engines and that is just missing. When closed loop MPG is ~35 - 45. When accelerating, 8 - 15 MPG. I've attached VCDS lite and I now have a "Knock Sensor 1: Signal too High.", which figures considering the symptoms. No ECU light on the dash though. I've double checked and the sensor (brown 3 wire plug) is definitely connected so I suspect it is dead. I've tried the battery off for an hour to have the system relearn and I've also done the throttle body alignment. The car has been run on V-Power (99 RON) since the new engine was fitted and also has had a bottle of Cataclean put through it for good measure. I've ordered a new knock sensor so hopefully that will fix it. Any other advice? How is the best way to access the sensor? I'd rather not take manifolds off but don't mind getting under the car on axle stands. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Metzger-907044-0907044-Knock-Sensor/dp/B00DZHXBN8/ref=au_pf_sr_3?ie=UTF8&n=248877031&s=automotive&submodelId=13363 Thanks in advance!

This engine was returning 40 MPG average on petrol and 31 MPG on LPG before it died. The car had some history when I bought it but the last previous owner didn't do anything to it for the two years he had it (no receipts at all) but clocked up loads of miles. i.e. neglected it. I'm surprised it lasted this long, but at £900 with LPG conversion it was a no brainer as a cheap runaround.. New engine with 40K miles ordered

Thanks for the advice guys. Think I'm going get the engine changed over as I think I can get that done for £500 which will get me a cheap car that the Mrs will use as the Celica is a classic modified policy (410 BHP / 400 LBFT) and she isn't insured on that... then sell the 1.4 classic in in the next month or so and have a look for a MKI vRS. Most low mileage examples seem to be around 3.5 -4K. Does that sound reasonable?

That is temping and in great condition, although if I was changing the car I don't think I could deal with the hit of losing the LPG fuel savings (it does 30 MPG on gas @ 59p / litre) , hence I'd have to buy a TDI. Think I'm going to buy an engine off eBay (place about 30 miles down the road) and get a friend to swap it for now as it's the cheapest option. It kills me as the more I look the more I'm thinking get a better specced car with air-con, computer, hell even electric windows over my old Classic. Good luck with the sale though Does anybody know if headgasket problems are common on 2002 MPI engines? I know it was a problem on some 2001. Thanks

Hahaha, the new car idea is worth thinking about! - Last year we went to the south of france and back in it and it only cost £150 to do 1600 miles with the LPG. I really wanted air con though The kicker is I only got the nearside front wheel bearing done on friday and the brakes and pads last week! I have a friend from my GT-FOUR shenegans that is fully kitted out for an engine transplant so I'm currently thinking 2nd hand engine for £250 and swap it over as I won't have to pay extortionate labour. Details?

Hi all, Thanks for the replies. I bought the car about 2 years ago with 95K miles on it and its now on 135K miles. It already had an LPG conversion and I paid only £900 for it. Since then it had the following done: 3x oil and filter changes 3x air filter New clutch New cam chain at 100K New thermostat twice! 4x new springs and top mounts Two sets of brembo disks and mintex pads New console bushes New track rod end New 16 inch alloys etc etc. The engine has always used a bit of water and been subject to mayo in the oil so I've ensured these are always topped up. I've tried to look after it was much as I could without spending too much money although I suspect most of the wear on the engine was done before I bought the car :(

Hi all, Car won't start last night but fired up on 2 or 3 eventually, then started running properly. There was a rattle at low revs but drove OK. This morning, won't start at all. I checked the following 1) spark on all 4 2) changed plugs 3) fuel on all 4 plugs so injectors working 4) starting in gear makes car lurch forward so starter working 5) charged battery I then removed the rocker cover and discovered something scary - only two values seem to be moving when turning over. See YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc91RxbJ5fw This is new engine time?? Thanks, Darrell

Thanks, this is really helpful. It's AQW with ECU code of SIMOS3PA (047 906 033 C) I'm wiring up one of these: http://www.telwis.pl...comp-p-119.html as mines a "Classic" (hence no fuel computer) and I don't want to get involved with swapping dash pods and coding.

Adrian in parts is a very nice guy.

Not had much luck trying to find one of these. I was wondering if anyone could help, has Autodata etc. I'm specifically looking for the pins for speed sensor and injector signals. Thanks in advance.

Ha, yes mine doesn't have central locking or electric mirrors or windows. I looked into retrofit cruise control and then found my convenience unit is 6Q2 so not supported. With the celica, I'd just go to the scrapyard and get the uprated part but it seems all this talk of coding each unit sounds like an excuse for the dealer, or people in "the club" to fleece you. My car effectively has DRM. I've decided to try and find a local Skoda dealer that will talk to me about what I want to achieve, without trying to rip me off, and without all the bull. I've written my own ECU mapping software for the Apexi Power FC so I'll be able to smell the bull a mile off.

Here: http://www.motogas.com/software/ENGSTAGTAP0102_manual.pdf I'm going to have to fudge the signal the crank angle sensor is sending to the petrol ECU.

Not enjoying the inflexibility of this VAG platform. It seems like I'm going to have to go down the CAM signal fudger route.