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PaddyVRS

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dublin

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  • Model
    Fabia Mk2 VRS "Green Machine"

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  1. I was trying to get hold of some too for refitting standard bulbs. Aside from getting them from a scrapyard the easiest is skoda dealer although they are EXPENSIVE! Something like €15 euros each :no: No thanks. I still use the cut ones and they work fine once clipped back onto the wiring plug. I don't have the link anymore but if you can get the part number from your skoda dealer there was a place in Germany selling them for around €6-7 each plus postage. Google is your friend but they are hard to find
  2. Thanks Lee, I have the full PDF file already. I hadn't noticed that the clutch seems to be completely integral with the water pump so I am getting a new SC clutch too.
  3. Thanks for the replies. I doubt I will get any support from the dealer so will go through Skoda Ireland directly if I can.
  4. Hi all, Just had my car serviced about 3 weeks ago. Got it back and only a week later it started making a mechanical noise at idle and low revs. It got progressively worse so dropped it in to be checked. Water pump has gone apparently. The car is a 2011 CAVE model (new engine in 2013 but i presume water pump is original) with approx 59k Miles on the clock. Do you think I have a case for claiming premature parts failure through Skoda? I would have thought a water pump should last longer than 5 years. The real kicker is that because it is integral with the Supercharger pulley clutch mechanism its pricey to replace. I was quoted 700 Euros but they would give me a 10% discount (thanks a mil...) Any thoughts?
  5. To add to your experiences, I have a 2011 VRS with second CAVE engine. Apart from minor things (and the engine being replaced) its been pretty good. Had the DSG service campaign carried out last year at its annual service. Part of this was to do a gearbox reset procedure. I noticed that the way it shifted had changed slightly as obviously the clutch engagement tolerances had shifted slightly. Nothing bad, just different. I have always had occasions where I can get minor judder in 2nd gear as you have. Mainly this happens if you start to accelerate harder, say into a roundabout, as it changes into 2nd. In D mode it seems to slip the clutches a lot more in the initial 2 gears to achieve a smooth pull away. If I have just had a few hard blasts, the clutches are obviously hot so it is a bit more noticeable bu still only a minor judder. It isn't violent or harsh by any means. When cold it never does it. If I use M mode from stationary I don't get the judder, the gear shifts aren't smoothed out or prolonged to be smoother. I did notice however after the gearbox service campaign that sometimes it doesnt engage immediately under high torque load on even gears. I presume this is just due to the slightly different clutch programming. It never slips, so I am not worried about clutch failure.
  6. Possibly a sticky caliper which is dragging a pad lightly on the disc. Over long drives could it overheat the disc and cause it to warp over a period of time?
  7. Can anyone tell me what the gap between wheel arches and tyres are on a Standard VRS? I can't figure out if mine has been lowered or not before I bought it. Might have the Skoda approved lower springs on it already, or it could just be my eyes.
  8. Hopefully this link will work, file was too big to upload here. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3rsCZW4C8NoTTZCRDd6eUFnQWs/view?usp=sharing
  9. I have had similar problems before on various occasions at differing states of engine temp and driving conditions. I don't have any exact measurements of boost unfortunately but on one occasion the car would not pull past 4000RPM in 4th gear, just got stuck. Touch wood I haven't had any issues like this in ages, nothing was found during service checks. I still have no idea what caused it, on one occasion I had no boost at all. Not even from the supercharger! All other instances were supercharger fine and once it reached turbo only it just died. No lights, no faults and no solution was ever found. If it happens to me again I will have to investigate further but for now I am just leaving it be. There are so many sensors and valves that can possibly cause issues with the boost range it could be a long winded process, especially if it is not happening consistently. I will try upload an extract from a VW pdf on the TSI engines which gives good descriptions of all valves, solenoids etc which could be causing problems
  10. Yes! This is exactly what I was trying to point out when I posted a link in here earlier on
  11. Might be worth a read of this, I have seen it before somewhere but couldn't find the page I saw with pictures. You should get the idea after reading from the third paragraph onwards. Might not be of much use on part worn tyres, but possibly swapping left to right if they are Asymmetric (not directional) http://www.iam-bristol.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=334&Itemid=1
  12. I got the 6k ones off ebay, apart from a bit of a fiddle to get the bulb holders seated back in the headlights everything has been spot on with them. They are a bit more blue than I had imagined but not too much. The only thing is now the DRL's look much more white than the headlights. 5k would probably match the DRL's better
  13. I always try and use the plug socket on an extension just turning it with my fingers to make sure the plug is in straight. Although with a decent plug socket with the rubber grip inside its such a narrow tube that unless the plug is hanging out loose it will be hard to cross thread it! Oh and it is possible to use coat hanger wire to make a tool although it does involve a lot of cursing and sore fingers!
  14. I have now fiddled with the adjuster screws on the headlights to level them with each other (left was significantly lower then the right) and then raise them a touch more. I will see how I go in the dark hours as I've only driven it in foggy daytime so far. If I get a few flashes I will lower back slightly but I think my they should be bang on now
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